As a huge fan of Edmond’s Blog, I am always super excited to read his latest insight on the world of watch (and sometimes car) collecting.
As a young collector on this journey of discovery I am often attracted to brands and pieces that to don’t possess ‘mass appeal’. With exactly 1380 lots going up for sale over the Geneva auction weekend, I realized that a few too many really interesting lots were bound to not get the necessary attention, therefore I thought it would be nice to share my favourite 17 ‘hidden’ lots.
And what better platform than my favorite independent blog! Here are my favourite lots from the upcoming Geneva watch auctions.
12th May – Phillips Daytona Ultimatum
When Phillips does thematics, it excels. Aurel’s knowledge of the market and collectors makes him one of the best at offering meticulously curated collections and selected timepieces.
My absolutely favourite lot, and one which might go unnoticed for most, is lot 21: ‘The Arabian Night.’ There is something so humble yet powerful about this piece and I really cannot wait to view it during the previews. (Hopefully this is the only Rolex I talk about).
12-13th May – Phillips GWA7 Lot 119 and 122: The Type XXs to own
Whether you are a fan of Breguet, military watches, chronographs or more generally vintage watches, the type XX is a benchmark model every collector respects and admires for it’s perfectly minimalistic design features and important historical context.
Phillips will be offering two extraordinary examples: arguably the first ever (at least known) type XX to be commercially sold and one of three existing, solid gold examples.
The special Gold model rarely seen below.
12-13th May – Phillips GWA7 Lot 140: A Watch Fit for Ironman
Though my passion for watches heavily lies in the vintage world, I am very appreciative of the independent creators of today, as they are representative of horological development and why it matters.
I have grown close to Urwerk as a brand as I feel they are the embodiment of modern horology, having paved their own way since the late 90s.
This particular example of UR-110 PG was worn on the set of Ironman by none other than Robert Downey Jr. and is the example that will be appearing in many movie theaters all over the world. Furthermore all proceeds of the estimated 50-100k (CHF) watch will be going to a Haitian charity, a truly remarkable gesture from Urwerk.
12-13th May – Phillips GWA7 Lot 163: Where the wild watches are
If you are following my IG, you are well aware that I am a huge fan of Universal.
When it comes to design and details, few manufacturers could compete with Universal Geneve. The very name of the company transcended from the ‘universality’ of their movements that allowed the company to experiment wildly with case design and dial graphics.
The following example is arguably the company’s last great creation and one of the true holy grails.
The 881101/04 comes just before the quartz crisis, and is the last watch to retain an in-house calibre 281.
The rarity comes, as always, from the dial. The aquamarine/turquoise dial is so special and really ahead of it’s time and with a low estimate ~10k (CHF/USD) it offers tremendous value for the collector. This is arguably rarer than most Paul Newmans and just as interesting design-wise.
I cannot remember the last time an example went to auction, so should be very interesting to see what it fetches.
12-13th May – Phillips GWA7 Lot 195: Longines, CA
If you are a Panerai or bubbleback collector, you already know how valuable to the overall design a california dial can be.
This Slovakian issued 6-tacche Longines can be considered amongst the holy grail of radium dialed ‘time only’ watches for the simple fact that it’s one of only a handful the company ever made.
12-13th May – Phillips GWA7 Lot 258: A Time Jumper
Audemars ability to ‘jump’ through time with it’s timeless designs never ceases to amaze. Packed in a very avant-garde white gold case is this spectacular combination of high-grade mechanics and mechanical art.
Suitable only for the finest of wrists.
Lot 112: Before Reverso’s Were a Thing
Amongst the patents Universal Geneve boasts of, is that of reversibility.
The reverse mechanism is very unique too; pivoting at 12 hour rather than the conventional side reversal, the Cabriolet is an extremely rare piece and one of the lesser known models.
This design precedes that of the Reverso and is considered amongst collectors to be the very first reversible watch, dating to 1928.
However, further analysis of the dial should be done by potential buyers.
Lot 355: Un Padellino Volante – Antiquorum
I love when a Rolex says everything except for Rolex. And this to me is exactly that.
According to the experts, this Rolex comes from a very limited production of only 60 pieces made in 1937 and intended to be one of the very first waterproof watches to be serially produced. On top of that, the case and dial design are absolutely unique.
Lot 409: Own a piece of Breguet -Antiquorum
This is the sort of lot that only true collectors will understand and rather bid for than any watch.
This very interesting mix of manuscripts, letters and archives including the invention brevet of the cadran tournant (Georges Brown), a description of the constant-force escapement registered by Breguet in 1798.
This and other paperwork is a unique collection of the history of horology and is so fundamental that I hope the future owner will make it available for the whole collecting community to read and enjoy.
Lot 507: An Entry Level Cloisonné – Antiquorum
Though not famous for it, Universal’s enamels are often comparable to those made by Patek, Vacheron and Rolex.
That is because the very same company, Stern Cadrans, made them. And actually the very same enamellers were often employed, including grand-master Charles Poluzzi.
Surely one of the most complex case designs of the forties, this Vacheron is a splendid example of what I define as horological sculptures.
Moulded out of solid gold, this superb piece is one of Vacheron’s most sought after time-only watches. The particularity of this watch is emphasized by the two tone dial that form the Maltese cross.
Lot 281: The Asymmetry of Symmetry- Sothebys
Gilbert Albert created a unique jewellery line that was far ahead of his time using uncut stones and radical materials.
In collaboration with Patek he designed about half a dozen watches that embodied his spirit and the ethos of the company. To me, there exists a truly artistic value in these pieces that goes beyond that of horology. This is a very rare opportunity to own a part of that.
Lot 233: The OG GPS – Sothebys
Maybe the most horologically significant creation to be auctioned in the coming weekend!
This is a Longines chronometer siderograph with double split chronograph function. Cased in a very futuristic aluminum case, this 1945 instrument is so important that I am surprised it is not in a museum.
Am extremely excited to see it in person and already congratulate the future buyer.
Lot 44: The Pocket Watch to Rule Them All
There existed a time in watchmaking, where you wanted a very specific person to regulate your watch.
If you were cool enough, Theodore Beyer Cool, then you also got someone else to regulate your tourbillon. And of course it would be a Patek because what else. The low estimate of 150k (CHF) in other words an entry level Paul Newman makes me question how many people are really interested in the art of horology.
This may be one of the most special pocket watches ever made, period.
Lot 59: A Perfect Marriage and Their Child – Christies
We all love chronographs, and we certainly all adore minute repeaters.
And when Cartier asked Audemars to make them a special one, they delivered. Salmon and Yellow two tone dial too. What dreams are made of.
Lot 63: The Chiming Turtle – Christies
Cartier just has a way of making of case designs timeless creations.
The Tortue is a prime example of this. However this is no ordinary Tortue, but a minute-repeating one. The rarity and importance of this watch cannot be stressed enough. A must-have for a truly fine gentleman.
Lot 86: Pearly Goodness – Christies
The 1 of 2 ever made Patek Philippe reference 2573 with natural pearls on the dial is the epitome of finery in details.
Made especially for the His Highness Khalifa I of Bahrain, it is so refined and to some extent absurd given how these pearls fit under the glass. Though not sure how it will physically look, I had to include this in my favorite lots.
Overall, I am really looking forward to this auction weekend as there are many gorgeous watches to see and much to be learned. I believe an incredible selection of watches is available for sale and the astute collector is certainly bound to find his or her grail.
Disclaimer: Any view or opinion expressed in this article is totally my own. I have not seen the watches in person and by any means cannot vouch for their authenticity. It is always advised to attend the previews in person and if you cannot, at least request the lots essay from the auction house and condition report.
Thank you Edmond for the space provided, looking forward to seeing you all in GVA.