The big watch auctions are upon us once again and I have gone through Christies, Antiquorum and Sotheby’s catalogue (I did Phillips in my previous post).
I cannot recommend what I have not seen, so this time I have done something different, and perhaps, more interesting. At the start of every auction season I go thorough all the catalogues and write down lot numbers that interest me. These lot notes are not only intended for preparation of what I am interested in perhaps buying; they are also lots where my intention is to simply hold watches in my hand and learn.
This process of writing down lot numbers for watches I am not necessarily interested in buying first and foremost, but are more about the learning process has helped me become a more well- rounded collector. So, this post can be viewed as my ‘personal lot’ notes for the upcoming auction season in Geneva.
I have also included ‘questions to ask‘ or ‘note to self’ in the lot notes. Think of this as my personal sticky notes in a blog post.
Christies
Lot 27: A 1986 Rolex 6263 Daytona.
Let’s face it. For a collector that wants something truly rare, a big red is not what comes first to mind.
However, this watch is special in that it was ordered by the Sultan of Oman, through their official distributor Aspreys in London. It does not have the Khanjar on the dial but does have Asprey engraved on the caseback. It also comes directly from a collector in Oman (according to Christies officials) and comes with the original box and paperwork from his Majesty stamped with official Khanjar too.
My thinking on this lot is that if I want to own any kind of big red Daytona 6263 it should be something that is special (I don’t want to be just another collector that owns just another big red Daytona). This one has very nice provenance which I like. Another big positive is that this watch was never offered before and is thus ‘fresh to the market’. It also seems in remarkable condition with green sticker on back and hardly worn.
Note to self: Is there any kind of receipt from Asprey, check gold Asprey signature and compare it to this one. What premium is this worth given only paperwork and box but no receipt and no signature on the dial? An estimtated 3-4’000 came from Oman so not particularly rare. Read condition report.
The 3448 is one of my favourite Patek Philippe watches made. It would be my ultimate dream to own such a piece of ‘horological art‘ one day. With a clean dial layout and great case design (Gerlach) I have written extensively about it here.
Never offered to the market before, this watch seems a nice example with a reasonable estimate for this reference. Whenever a 3448 white gold is offered to the market, I look at it, as you can only learn and appreciate all the small differences among them with time – for example this has a non pearl dial minute counter-not typical for the production year.
Note to self: Check dial patina and also check lugs for stamps which are present and polishing on case as the 3448 is very sensitive to any kind of polish (the lugs are very thin relative to case on all 3448 to begin with). Also read the condition report. Ask watch maker to open caseback to see movement.
It is no secret that I love gold cases with black dials. Give me a pink gold case and I love it even more! Readers of my work know also how much I love rectangular wristwatches – they are so chic and more elegant than round watches in my view.
Note to self: Take note that the ‘extract of archives’ clearly states dial type. Check case for stamps and condition as well as dial. Check condition of outer minute railway track. Read condition report.
Sothebys
Lot 255: A 1988 Rolex 16528 Daytona Floating porcelain dial
I will be honest – I don’t have the faintest clue about these modern Daytona (James Marks or Wulf should give me a 15 minute lecture on the basics). So, this watch is one where I want to inspect the dial and see how I a porcelain version differs from the non-porcelain version. This special layer of lacquer is apparently why some collectors dub this watch porcelain dial.
I personally like Gold watches and white dials too – I find them perfect for the summer and very light and fresh looking. This would be an interesting summer watch to own.
Note to self: Check condition report. Ask what serial range porcelain dials are normally found in.
Lot 265: A 1930 Rolex Ref 1879 so called Extra Prima
I like rectangular watches and I love Rolex. So, this watch was an obvious one to look at.
The good news is that I prefer this shape form versus the longer prince type models that are normally seen at Rolex. The bad news is that I know close to nothing about this reference from Rolex. This is another example of a watch I just want to hold in my hands and learn about. I have only found one other ref 1879 that seemed worthy to compare. At least both are signed Swiss made.
Note to self: Ask for condition report. Dial looks super strong for a 1930s watch and matches the case back that is near perfect condition with all serial nrs readable and in nearly mint condition. Maybe watch sat in drawer for decades. Wouldn’t be the first time.
We are jumping into the pinnacle of Rolex collecting now with this early Ref 2508.
Any Rolex chronograph in steel with black dials from the 1940s, 50 and 60s is sought after for their striking appearance and exclusivity (Rolex didn’t make many with black dials). This 2508 is no exception. This example is known as a series one with olive pushers.
Note to self: Check subsidiary dial graphics with other type 2508. Also read condition report and ask watchmaker to see the movement. Inspect gilt dial closely. Compare serial number with other 2508 black dial known to the public markets.
Lot 455: A 1955 Eska Cloisonné Enamel dial with Pink Gold case
I am attracted to Cloisonné Enamel dials – one of the complex arts of fine watchmaking.
Eska is an interesting brand that made quite a few Enamel dials. If this would be a Patek we can safely add two more zeros to the estimate. I find the motive and picture of this watch beautiful (night and day motif) and it is by far my favourite Eska being offered by Sothebys (there are several).
Note to self: Inspect dial up closely with Loupe. Read condition report. Ask who supplied dial (Stern Freres?) and check for markings in back of dial if picture available. Ask about movement.
Lot 461: A 1960 Patek Travel time 2597
While the Rolex GMT Master 1675 might be for the outdoors man flying to different time zones, the Patek version seen here is for the sophisticated gentlemen of refined taste.
The 2597 has long fascinated me and I can’t seem to decide if I like the purity of this version better or the functionality of the second series (with three hands) better.
Note to self: check dial signature with loupe. See if the both pushers work on the left to advance and set back time.
Antiquorum
I like peculiar lugs on watches, and there I have to admit I was influenced by the famous talking watches with my friend Roni. This watch is a nice time only and best of all it is offered at no reserve. Technically someone can walk away with a 1950s Patek manual 10-200 cal watch for under CHF 2000 if they are lucky.
Note to self: Ask to see extract of archive if available and read condition report.
Lot 385: A 1966 Patek ref 3466
There is something pure about time only steel Patek watches.
Ref 3466 was made for a very short time period and this watch is interesting for its screw back case and waterproofness. Additionally, collectors will like that the legendary automatic movement of 27-460 inside this watch. The estimate strikes me as relatively high, but the watch is quite rare.
Notes to self: read condition report, ask for extract and look at dial with a loupe. Ask watchmaker to show me movement.
Lot 423: A 1953 Vacheron Constantin Enamel dial
Cloisonné Enamel dials are rare by any manufacture. Especially Vacheron Constantin.
This watch reminds me of a peacock for some reason I cannot wait to look at the colors in person. Only four are known to appear ever at public auction, the last one at Christies in 2012. All were known to sell to NYC for some reason.
Certainly, a watch to hold in your hands and simply learn about.
Notes to self: Ask for Vacheron archives. Look at dial with Loupe. Ask for condition report.
Lot 449: A 1930s Rolex Ref 3459
Rectangular in shape. Gold with black dial. Rolex. Ofcourse I am going to look at this watch more closely!
Notes to self: Ask for condition report. Look at case closely and for hallmarks. Look at dial closely (some pitting noticeable). Ask if movement is signed.
Lot 571: A 1950s Vacheron Ref 6694 in white gold.
A Vacheron chronometer movement in a flat case with automatic movement with fancy lugs and offered at no reserve? Yes, I will most certainly look at this watch more closely if I get the chance.
Vacheron only stamped their best movements with Chronometer Royal on the dial and while this batman is not that rare – it is extremely beautiful. Vacheron was very strong in making fancy lugs in the 1950s and 1960s.
This batman is proof of that.
