As the world seems to be spinning faster than it has ever done, we find ourselves already in May and back in Geneva with a glimmer of hope that the world will return to some sort of normality as soon as possible.
After having looked through all the catalogues, I thought this time round I would write about 4 items that have impressed me like no wristwatch has. Because the truth is: watchmaking often goes well beyond the wrist.
1. A 1965 Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch (Antiquorum)
Antiquorum’s catalogue, the largest by number of lots amongst the 4 auction houses (500+ lots) offers a tremendously diverse and eclectic selection of watches ranging from ‘free sprung’ Frodsham pocket watch (lot 451) to an original owner Rolex Zerographe (lot 292).
In the absence of particularly interesting desk clocks, I opted to pick one pocket watch that I have also had the pleasure of handling in person and must admit was as impressive as a pocket watch can be.
Made in 1965, an era in which brands were experimenting with racing watches and exotic dials, Audemars produced this incredible reference 5540BA in solid 18k yellow gold. Featuring a perpetual calendar and minute repeating complication, what truly strikes me about this watch is the perfection of execution of the dial configuration and overall aesthetic of the piece.
I have said this before, AP’s perpetual calendar layout is second to none. In person, the two-tone silvered subdials are absolutely incredible. A real masterpiece!
(Credit: Antiquorum)
Notice the similarities to the 5516 AP wristwatch and the two tone – dial.
(Credit: watchprosite).
2. A 1980 Cartier Onyx and Mother of Pearl Desk Clock (Phillips)
Phillips catalogue for the 13th Geneva auction is packed with extremely ‘sellable’ and I would argue commercial watches that are exactly what the market is asking for right now. Interestingly enough, there are fewer vintage watches than ever, not a single pocket watch and just a couple of desk clocks.
This is perfectly understandable, as I feel the team pays very close attention to the ‘desires’ of the market, catering in the best of ways to these needs.
This particular Cartier desk clock was made in Paris, France in the eighties and still embodies to perfection what Cartier does best. The choice of materials and shapes as a strong reminder of the art deco period that creatively blossomed the Parisian jeweller to the peak of their creations. The iridescence of the mother of pearl dial is enhanced by a ‘sunset’ design with a circular base with ‘rays’ spreading out. The clock is powered by a simple quartz movement which is actually rather comfortable.
At a 5-8k chf estimate, this is also the most affordable of my choices and offers great value for such beautiful aesthetics.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
3. 1925 Vacheron Clock by Verger Freres
One of the best love stories in the history of watchmaking: the collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and the french jeweller Verger Frères.
They created some of the most impressive pieces of watch design of the last century, to the point where experts believe Verger Frères to be the reason why Vacheron survived the turning point between pocket and wristwatch, creatively stimulating the brand to produced extremely intricate and special watches such as the ‘shutter’ watch with narrow slits that ‘open’ to revel the dial.
Though little is known about Verger Frères, during the 1920s deco period, they were considered to be the absolute pinnacle of french jewllery and their creations do indeed confirm this.
This particular desk clock dates from 1925 and was discovered in 2016 from the original owners. The tinted mother of pearl dial depicting a very complicated forest motif is unsigned but most probably made by master Vladimir Makovsky. The base and structure is made of particularly large cuts of onyx, with 3 jade pillars separating the base from the clock itself, as if suspended on a cloud of green. Octagonally shaped, the hours and enhanced by beautifully set diamond numerals and the most intricate hand-made handset.
This one-of-a-kind piece was retailed by none other than Linzeler & Marchak, a very prominent parisian/russian jewellery known to only deal in the most impressive creations.
(Credit: Sothebys).
4. Vacheron Constantin Lapis clock
What I love about watches (and in particular vintage watches) is the attention to detail that often brands would put just for the sake of making something extraordinary. Christies has really put together an impressive catalogue of extremely fine and important timepieces.
I was amazed when I first saw this piece. I premise that at first sight I thought this desk clock was almost kitsch. Then I started looking at the details and realised I shouldn’t look at this item as a desk clock, but as a live kinetic sculpture that also happens to tell the time (in the most impressive of ways).
Made in 1989 by Vacheron Constantin, this piece is a true exultation to the incredible array of rocks, minerals, precious stones and metals known to mankind. The Polar bear is made in a white agate known as Cacholong, resting on lapis base and ‘holding’ the mysterious watch. However, this is no ordinary mystery dial, but a one minute revolving satellite tourbillon encrusted between two rock crystal plates. The handset are a work of gem setting art, with baguette rubies and diamonds, and the whole watch is set with diamonds and emeralds at the cardinal hours.
Overall a most impressive object, and one that truly embodies the extent to which humans are willing to go to create something truly exceptional.
(Credit: Christies).
