There are some people who are collectors. They are interested in watches, collect them and enjoy them. But then there are others who simply live for watches. They take collecting to another level.
Nicolas F. better known as ‘Amanico’is one such collector.
He takes passion to another level. Follow him and his posts on PuristPro and you understand why. His knowledge is unmatched in vintage wristwatch collecting and that explains why he is the official moderator for JLC (Jaeger Le Coultre) on the PuristPro forum. Indeed I have learned much from Amanico over the past two years and continues to seek his advice often.
And his watch collection is simply outstanding.
Not for the value of his watches (although he owns watches that are worth more than most people cars), but because his collection is so incredibly broad. From modern watches (Rolex Yachtmaster) to vintage treasures (plenty of vintage Rolex 1675, 6542, 5508, 5512) and other icons of the vintage watch world like the JLC Polaris, Blancpains’ Fifty Fathoms or the original Lange Datograph- I know of no other collection that is so broad in scope.
To put it another way: We think Amanico is one of the best and most astute collectors of vintage watches we have met. We had the opportunity to sit down with Amanico at Place Edmond in Paris (there is indeed a Place Edmond Rostand in Paris) to talk about watches.
Interviewing him- it becomes apparent: Amanico is among the most knowledgeable watch collectors on this planet. Enjoy.
LME: When did you first start collecting wristwatches?
Amanico: I started becoming interested in watches when I was seven years old because of my godfather who gave me a timex. I loved the glowing dial so much I did not sleep for 3 days! My mother was concerned that I was sick because I looked so bad but I could not stop starring at my Timex. It kept me up all night. I caught the watch bug at 7! In 1996 I started collecting seriously as I then had the financial means. My first watch was a 16700 GMT Master Rolex.
You have a very diverse collection. You own many brands, but, is there an underlying theme within your collection?
Amanico: Because it was my first watch. When I was 14 years there was a series called Magnum with Tom Selleck and when he was saluting his fathers coffin- I fell in love with this watch that he was wearing (it was a Rolex GMT Master). I love Rolex because its robust, its very well made, its quality, you feel the quality on your wrist, when you put a modern watch on and close the clasp. but also because of the richness in the dials (He shows me a 6542 Rolex that he has), Rolex has patina that no other watchmaker has!
We see an increasing interest in collecting wristwatches across the world. Why are more people being drawn by vintage wristwatches? We can tell the time on an Iphone 5 just as accurately!
Amanico: The increasing interest in vintage collecting follows the path that horology took from the 1970′s onward. In the 1970s horology (mechanical watchmaking) almost died because of the quartz revolution taking place. But then due to certina visionaries (like Hayek) there was a rebirth but it took twenty years to really gain traction. It was also due to countries like Italy who did a lot of work to save the industry. But today with the internet community you have the tools to go faster in and deeper in the knowledge (like puristpro) of vintage watch collecting. I also think the current financial crises is helping! Let me explain. People thought it was crazy to spend money -so much money on wristwatches but with the crises they lost even more with the stocks of companies, so it changed the mind-set of people buying watches!
What does a vintage wristwatch have that other watches do not have?
Amanico: Mainly three things: Patina, history and soul!
We both love diving watches from the 1950’s and 1960s. Tell me more.
Amanico: The first first diving watch came about when Mercedes Gleitze in 1913 crossed the channel wearing a Rolex – that was the birth of the concept! The first diving watch was Panerai 3646 in 1936 – the Panerai can be seen as the real first diving watch without a turning bezel. Blancpain and Rolex (with the Submariner) came afterwards and both claim to have released the first diving watch in 1953. These are the roots of modern diving watches, they launched the specification of what has to be the diving watch. So the 1950s is clearly the ‘Golden Period’ of diving watches.
The charm and soul of these watches is immense. What makes diving watches interesting also is that watchmakers learnt to be pragmatic-let me explain: Watchmakers realised that you cannot have a normal manual movement in a diving watch, because wind it too much, you break the seal between the crown and the case- so watchmakers made diving watches with Automatic movements (self-winding). An interesting horological point right?
Patek Philippe continues to achieve record auction results. What are so many people drawn to this well managed brand?
Amanico: I clearly have a love and hate relationship with Patek. I own several Patek watches but what bothers me is the following: Collectors want to own Patek out of status reasons and not out of love for the watch/movement. And so I don’t like the image provided by Patek.
People should collect of pure pleasure, out of pure passion, but with Patek Philippe you do not know why people are buying their watches. Is it out of social status, invesment reasons? I mean Patek is the only watchmaker I know where collectors take pictures of their watches still in the plastic seal for being scared of scratching the watch! The means collectors are buying Patek out of monetary values often which is not really what watch collecting should be about!
Do you ever regret selling a watch? If yes which one and why?
Amanico: Two, first was panerai pre-vendome Marina military Lumnior ref 5218 -202-A, but I sold it because it the values were going crazy. I should have kept it because it was unique watch with personal history. The second watch I regret selling was a reverso Nr 2 tourbillon by JLC (I sold it to buy other watches).
Where do you buy most of your watches? At dealers? Auctions? Both?
Amanico: I buy rarely at auctions because you have to be there to inspect the watch, and the big disadvantage- you cannot disassemble the watch. With collectors you can take the watch apart if you want. Another advantage of buying through fellow collectors is that you can make trades. I also like to buy from collectors because I think you can trust them that they are doing their homework and thus often only the collectors have the really rare timepieces. And a collector wants to sell his fine watch to another collector and not at auction because collectors want their timepiece they are parting with to be appreciated by a fellow collector who understands the real value of the watch. Most of my watches I buy from collectors. What I have noticed the good stuff does not come to the auction. There is a new trend to collect among ourselves (from a collectors point of view).
What do you look for when buying a vintage watch?
Amanico: First and foremost, I have to love it! After its condition and originality and authenticity!
You are moderator on Purist of Jaeger Le Coultre (JLC). What is special about this brand?
Amanico: JLC is among my favorite brands, because of their rich history. You love the watch (Jaeger Le Coultre) for what it represents. It has along history in movement making. I also liked that they always developed a certain originality from an innovation side. (LME agrees. JLC is among our favorite brands, what other maker can claim so many milestones: Atmos, the iconic Reverso, the Memovox, the Polaris of 1968, the Deepsea diving watch etc etc).
You just bought an oldtimer recently. Do you see any similarities between the oldtimer and vintage watches?
Amanico There is alot of similarity. Let me explain. With old cars is the benzin smell, the leather that smells and gives a perfume- a sensation. When you brake in an old car you really have to brake. You have to master the car. Everybody can drive a new car fast, but it takes skill to drive an oldtimer fast. In old cars you are reminded that your a human being, and that you have be able to read a map! With old watches it is kind of the same (you always wonder wether the movement works, if the watch is in good condition). Like old cars, vintage watches is a great adventure. If I want to find a spare part for my old watch (like a bakelite bezel for my Rolex 6542 ) you have to hunt, its not only a question of money.
You have to do your homework and research and buy exactly the right part! It took two years to find my bakelite bezel for my 6542!
Now I ask Nicolas to answer me spontaneously, one or the other or both!
- Rolex submariner or Rolex GMT master? Tudor big crown!
- A fine wisky or fine cognac? Both
- A Reverso or Polaris? Original polaris
- Patek Nautillus or Patek calatrava? Calatrava
- Sarkozy or Hollande? Hollande by far!
- R. Mille or AP? Audemars
