Le Monde Edmond

March 7, 2018

Parma watch fair report 2018: Good for the soul

Fine WatchesEvents

I think I said it last time already. The Fiera di Parma is so much more than watches. This report will show you why once again.

This Parma experience was different from prior years as the weather conditions made traveling to Italy extremely difficult. Roads and highways were blocked due to heavy snow. As a result I almost had the fair on Friday to myself. It was relatively empty and fabulous for day dreaming and looking at beautiful things. 

A few things I noticed at Parma this time around. 1) If you like Rolex – it is really paradise to attend the fair. Now this is nothing new I admit, but I noticed it this time more than other times. The watch I saw most was by far the Rolex Daytona which seems to have become a brand onto its own, a brand within a brand. 2) I saw more Asian collectors than normal – something not surprising given their increased interest in vintage watches and the economic growth taking place in Asia allowing them to have strong purchasing power.

Let me show you around with some pictures.

(please excuse the picture quality as I did not take my Sony camera which is in repairs and instead used my iPhone).


After a delayed train ride due to heavy snowfall (the view from my window on the train explains everything)  – I finally arrive and first stop is the food section like always.

It was 2:30 in the afternoon and I was hungry. Parma ham and some parmesan was my choice – an obvious one.

A quick espresso and I was ready to see what was going on at the show. The first watch related stand was Matteo Monticone’s.

This submariner in gold with barc bracelet and nipple dial blew me away (even if I generally like earlier subs). A killer watch!

Another rare watch was this Nina Rindt with pulsation dial and brown sub-dials.

This early 3700 Nautilus is growing on me. The sigma symbols below on the dial for ‘Aprior’ – a detail signifying gold on the dial. In case of steel watches it is white gold indexes. (thank you Mstanga for the detailed explaination). 

But the watch below is not cased in steel. It is indeed in gold (which would be choice in the 3700 Nautilus as this stage in my life).

Next stop was Elvio’s stand from Tempus Orologi watches who always brings watches I like. Daytona were everywhere.

Let us take a look at this 6265 more closely. It came with all the papers and its original box as well.

Relatively speaking, and also given the price of this is similar to a nice early 6239 double Swiss with  275 bezel marking – I think the 6265 in gold offers still superb value.

He also had this nice 6238 with black dial and correct minute hands.

I continued to other stands. Anybody need a dial for their Rolex watch?

 

Or a Rolex sign to decorate their office?

I love the bracelet of the watch on the far right. Mr Goldberger was wearing a similar bracelet last year at Parma.

Ready to see more Daytona? This Rolex Daytona Ref 6263 in gold with champagne dial remains one of my favourite watches.

Given that most 4 digit Daytona have become unaffordable for many collectors – the second tier Daytona models are moving up in price now.

Like this Zenith Daytona with Porcelain dial – which is nearing very close to the six figure mark in Euro.

Indeed, everywhere I looked at Parma, the Daytona was to be found. It has become a brand within a brand. 

I took a break from watches and went to browse furniture. Notice how empty the halls were at Parma. Not a person in sight.

It was great for browsing and asking questions, talking to the owners/ vendors and just learning about the fine things in life.

Let us take another look at this stand.

 

Back to watches it was time to visit Only vintage based in Monte Carlo. They are known to bring some big guns to Parma.

What about this early Killy Rolex from the 1950s in pink gold? The Killy in all models and in all metals remains undervalued.  Think about it this way. This Killy below will buy you an average normal PN Daytona in gold. But a Killy is a much more complicated watch (it has a triple calendar date plus chronograph) made in far fewer numbers.

Either we are paying too much for a PN Daytona (likely but thats the market for the moment) or the Killy remains undervalued and a relative bargain (also likely).

Or this very rare and early 1950s bakelite first generation Rolex GMT Master 6542 in Gold with white script and signed Serpico & Laino?

This my friends is very rare, so it worth showing you another picture. This, in the GMT Master World of Rolex, is the very top of the collecting pyramid.

You cannot climb any higher.

They also had a nice steel Rolex GMT Master first generation with bakelite bezel, 6542 in steel with a great dial color.

Even if the dial was not a first series ‘Swiss’ only dial- but a correct replacement, it came with all papers.

There were a few nice Patek too, like this beautiful 570 with Breguet numerals and strong enamel raised signature.

It came from a private collector and the price was not known as the owner was still thinking what he should sell it for.

For the very big spenders, there was a Patek ref 2499 perpetual calendar available too.

My last stop was going to my favourite dealer of luggage trunks, Alessio Lorenzi. He did not disappoint with his stock this year.

I love trunks that have the signature on them.

He showed me this marvellous Louis Vuitton book which is a must have in my opinion (available on Amazon for half way reasonable prices).

I just ordered my copy.

Now it gets interesting. He showed me a very very rare trunk called the ‘Stokowksi’ (named after the famous composer) that folds out and can be used as a desk and library. In fact, the book was sitting on such a trunk – an original Stowkoski trunk – the first time he was able to secure one.

These trunks, along with the ‘secretaire’, (which is my favourite) are the most collectible Louis Vuitton trunks you can buy.

They are not trunks, but pieces of art in my view. The price? Well if you have to ask you can’t…(the price is equal to a nice normal Daytona steel Rolex 6239 or silver dial 6238 Predaytona).

It was time to go. One last stop to buy some salami at the exit.

Back in Milan it was dinner time after my trains was once again delayed due to the weather. What I love about Italy is that food is considered a culture and an art form.

Then I headed to the Bulgari hotel – one of the few places where you can smoke a cigar in Milan.

They have a great Fumoir. 

I spent two hours in there ‘night dreaming’ and talking to a man who was Russian but spoke fluent Japanese to his Japanese friend. Was extremely fascinating! Two nice Russian ladies joined the party later.

Below you see some celebrities who played a part in the ‘la dolce vita’ of Italy in the 1960s. Ekberg, Monica Viti and Sophia Loren (far right). 

A selfie of the writer of this blog and professional ‘day-dreamer’. 

The Bulgari brand has catered to many stars in the past. The king of western movies John Wayne below.

On the way out the hotel clock (also Bulgari of course) reminded me that I had stayed too many hours in the fumoir.

In the morning a visit to Rolex store of Milan. They had the best stock of Daytona I have ever seen. It is apparently the biggest Rolex dealership in the whole of Italy.

My Parma experience was worth it despite the bitter cold and massive train delays.

Italy is good for my soul, already the language (which I understand fully) is a delight to listen to. The food. The way of life. It is more relaxed than Zurich and thankfully only 3.5 hrs away by train.

I will be back very soon again.


(For my Parma 2017 report see here).

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