The upcoming auction season is upon us once again. After reviewing the Phillips catalogue – I noticed how vast my taste has changed in watches.
Six years ago – this list would have been dominated by Rolex sports watches. Today I have matured (for good or worse) and now am into more refined and elegant watches. This list reflects my personal taste at this stage in my life but also I include watches that are just in good and original condition, often fresh to the market and never offered before (some of these watches happen to be also sports models from Rolex). Simply put: I write about what I like and what I believe to be are correct watches.
There are no favours to any auction house about writing for a watch because of external or political reasons. This is the advantage of writing a blog that is completely independent and not supported by any brand or company or auction house.
What you get here, with this review, is a completely unbiased and personal opinion. A rare type of service in todays world I believe. Let’s get started.
(All pictures credit below: Phillips watches).
Lot 67: A superb 1948/49 Patek Philippe Ref 96 made in Platinum
The first Calatrava made by Patek is often ignored by collectors due to the very small size (31mm).
That often represents an opportunity to acquire an Icon in watch design for fair prices.
This particular watch is cased in Platinum (one of seven known), making it one of the rarest 96 to come to market in recent times. Case is virtually untouched and the watch comes with an exceptional Platinum bracelet by GF. All confirmed by the extract of archives.
In my view the exceptional platinum bracelet that clearly came with the watch when sold (stamped same date) just makes this watch! Also, worth noting that most 96 in platinum come with a diamond dial and this is the only known example to come with bullet markers.
The estimate of CHF 70-120’000 reflects the rarity and condition of this outstanding watch. At the low end of the estimate it might worth a bid in my view.
Lot 68: A mint 1950 Rolex Ref 8171, so called Padelone
The Rolex 8171 is only one of two Moonphase models Rolex ever made. I always pay attention to them when they come to the market.
This particular 8171 is set apart by its exceptional overall condition. Frankly I cannot recall seeing a better gold 8171 come to the market as long as I have been following the auction market. The case untouched (never polished) and dial flawless – void of any intervention. This 8171 is a so called ‘first series dial’, denoted by a small cut off crown.
While the watch is not NOS (it has been worn a few times) it is as close to a NOS as the market has ever seen. Even the original leather strap, buckle and hangtag come with the watch. According to Aurel Bacs, it is the BEST 8171 he has ever seen in his career and a 9.9/10.
Estimate of CHF 400-800’000 is towards the high-end of the model normally, but find me a better one.
I would be a buyer at even the very high estimate (if I had the budget) which is normally reserved for only pink gold 8171. This is trophy Rolex watch and worth up to CHF 800’000 (including commission) in my view.
It will surely break the world record for a normal gold 8171. The watch comes from a private collector.
Look at the fat case above. I have never seen a better case on a normal gold 8171.
Proof lies in the back of the watch – that it has never been polished. Rolex crown and serial nr still clearly visible and which would disappear or fade at the slightest polish or even if it was excessively worn.
The watch looks great on the wrist too.
Lot 104 & 147: Two rare 4240 – one with black dial and one with pink dial.
Vacheron triple calendar watches are completely overlooked and undervalued in my opinion. I present two watches that represent a lot of value for money in vintage watch collecting.
This 4240 with black dial is super interesting in my view. Why?
Because most Vacheron triple calendar come with rose or champagne or silver dials. I have never seen one with a black dial. It is true, gold is the most common case and not very rare but for that you get a black dial. It should be noted that the VC extract does not mention the black dial however.
I wish the calendar was in English (instead it is in French – as almost all of the 4240 are) but you can’t have everything.
The estimate of CHF 20’000 – 30’000 seems correct for such a fine watch.
I love the red calendar discs and how it contrasts with the black dial.
The watch looks marvellous on the wrist in my view.
Movement is powered by Calibre V495 – which, according to my knowledge, came from Jaeger.
The next 4240 is in pink gold which is far rarer and more elusive than the gold case above.
Not only is the case in pink gold, but the pink dial matches the watch perfectly in my view. It is elegant and again, also in this case, the red windows and red date fit the dial perfectly.
The case seems to be in sharp condition see below.
The estimate of CHF 15’000 -25’000 is slightly below the black dial and represents outstanding value in vintage watches right now.
Lets face it, if this had Rolex or Patek on the dial it would be worth 10x more.
Lot 132: A fine and rare 1960 Breitling Superocean
I cannot think of a more cool and vintage design than that of the Breitling Superocean.
From the fantastic bezel to the way font of the Superocean script – this watch has so much charm in my view and is one of the all-time great designs of vintage watches. Given the rarity of this watch and well as great design it carries – any sports watch collector should own one of these.
The estimate of CHF 10-15’000 strikes me as a lot of watch for your money. One of the coolest designs you can buy for this money in my view.
I really love the profile of a Breitling Superocean. This is art in my view.
Lot 182: A fine and rare 1963 Rolex 6238
This watch is 100% my taste as far as rare Rolex chronographs go.
What looks like a 6234 actually is a 6238. I assume Rolex had left over dials for the 6234 and put them in a 6238 case. Black dials are extremely rare especially with type 6234 dials, and they really represent the pinnacle of Rolex chronograph collecting.
The dial is flawless with the lume aged super nicely against the black dial. The dial with multi scale in silver gilt is untouched and mint. When something this clean and original comes to the market, I definitely pay attention. The watch is fresh and never been offered to the market before.
The estimate for this black dial early Rolex chronograph is CHF 200’000-400’000. It is a trophy watch and thus the estimate reflects its rarity and fine condition. I would love to own this rare early predaytona Rolex chronograph and this will be fought after. My guess is it will be between the estimate but towards the higher range.
Just recently Phillips sold a similar watch, with more tropical dial and it sold for CHF 492’000 back last November.
The dial is a piece of manufacturing art. This is Rolex at its best. Complex silver galvanic multi-scale dial.
I absolutely love how the lume contrasts with the black dial.
Lot 220: A 1954 Rolex 6200 Submariner
It is not secret I have moved somewhat away from diving watches personally – but given the originality and rarity of this watch – I simply had to include it.
The 6200 is exceptionally important to Rolex and diving watch history. This version with no submariner script is the most desirable version among collectors. Also, to my knowledge it is one of the few times (maybe even first time ever) we see an original owner wear his 6200 in a photograph and also comes from that owner.
Fresh to the market and never offered before – this 6200 seems in remarkable original condition with the hands and the dial having aged super nicely.
The estimate of CHF 300 – 600’000 seems right. Even if the watch is offered with the incorrect and later bezel insert – which is fully disclosed – the winning bidder has an option to buy the correct bezel insert – I think many collectors will be taking a close look at this watch. It appears in remarkable condition and original.
Look how well the dial and hands have aged. Original radium lume and normal pitting on the dial as a result. Wonderful example.
Below the original owner wearing his 6200.
Not often you seen something like this and could be even the first time ever for a 6200 to be shown with original owner and coming from the original owner.
Here are 2 Runner up Lots I would pay attention too:
While I picked my favourite lots at Phillips above – here are other watches that caught my eye in the catalogue. For the right price I would absolutely pick any of these up too – and all the watches below are 100% my taste.
Lot 52 Rolex 3835: These art deco Rolex watches are undervalued. This one has a nice case and is double signed. Great value for money.
Lot 54 Rolex 6238: I could have picked this too as its super glossy dial and seems flawless. Extremely rare in glossy condition this will be fought after. Estimate is high – but glossy dials are very rare. I love how the lume has aged on this dial and contrasts so nicely with the black dial.
