The vintage watch market is as strong as never before in terms of prices achieved both privately and at auction.

While the vintage car market has corrected, and is now stable in terms of prices,  collectors are pushing watches to new heights. Last year Rolex broke a new record for any wristwatch sold and also took the Nr 3 spot with the Bao Dai becoming the second most valuable Rolex ever sold. Daytona prices seem to be moving up constantly every year too.

While the top watches are becoming increasingly out of reach for the average collector – there are some watches that simply overlooked. This less to do with brand but rather form. 

For some reason square or rectangular watches are not in demand right now (the one exception remains the Cartier Tank Allongee perhaps because of it’s long generous size). But look at the Reverso. Or any small rectangular watch, and chances are collectors are less interested in the watch.

Now I understand why, and in many cases it makes sense. It applies to round watches too. A 31mm will never command as much as a Patek that is 35 or 36mm. But leaving the size factor out of the equation, square or rectangular watches are just not in fashion right now. A shame because in my opinion rectangular watches are much more elegant and chic than round watches.

Here are two rectangular watches that offer exceptional value at the upcoming auctions in Geneva.

1: A 1940 Patek Ref 425

It is my dream to own a Patek with long signature, meaning a watch prior to the mid 1940s with the long signature Patek Philippe & Co, before it would change to just Patek Philippe.

There is something so elegant about that signature with the & Co on the end. The watch below made in 1940 has the correct long signature and is Ref 425. A Pink Gold case and black dial is one of the most elegant combinations possible in my view and is the most attractive of all variations for the Ref 425. The black dial is furthermore confirmed by the extract of archives.

Furthermore, this watch stands out for its gilt dial and pink gold indexes. What is even more remarkable is that this watch comes with the original pink gold buckle and box. Best of all this watch is fresh to the market and has never been offered to the public before. 

Estimate of this fine watch is only CHF 5-6’500. Christies is selling this watch on May 14th in Geneva.

2: A fine 1992 Audemars Piguet ‘Edward Piguet’ perpetual calendar in Platinum

While I don’t write about more contemporary watches often – I could not help but overlook this Audemars perpetual calendar in Platinum. Again, black dials just appeal to me personally and this watch has everything going for it that I normally like. Cased in the most noble of materials, platinum – this Audemars is one complicated beast – it is a perpetual calendar with automatic movement and moon phase indicator. Naturally the leap year function is also displayed at 12 o’clock.

Audemars is a master watchmaker that has been doing perpetual calendars with own in house movements for a very long time (think ref 5516 back in the 1950s). 

You get a heck of a lot of watch for an estimate of only CHF 9-14’000. The watch is offered at Antiquorum on May 13th 2018.

by Edmond Saran