Phillips has something special for the connaisseur of Rolex chronographs next month at the Geneva auctions.
Some very rare and superb Rolex chronos – that are more exclusive (and elusive) than the Daytona we are more familiar with.
For some time now, collectors have been flocking to the 4-digit manual wound Daytona – and I fully understand that. They are handsome and good looking watches no doubt. But collectors should remember that Rolex made some of the most beautiful chronographs long before the Daytona. Phillips has some true treasures.
I pick my favourite 5 Rolex chronographs (out of more than a dozen offered). Let me share them with you.
(The full catalogue of the Phillips watches sale can be seen here). All pictures below are Phillips watches credit.
1: An exceptional 1960 Rolex ‘Killy’ 6236
The Jean Claude Killy is triple calendar chronograph from Rolex made in four series.
This is the last series, and still holds the world record for any steel Killy ever sold back in 2012 for a whopping CHF 638’000. It used to belong to Gordon Bethune the ex CEO from Continental Airlines. Needless to say, the watch is near perfect condition, case, dial, movement etc. This watch is like a time capsule.
On one hand I see it breaking the old record set back in 2012 (of more than CHF 630’000). On the other hand, the market has changed since then. Killy’s are out of favour since a while with Rolex collectors, at the expense of more modern Daytona from the mid 1960s onwards. This will be a test of a trophy top quality asset and that of shifting tastes – meaning it is too understated for many collectors who favour the bold look of a 1970s Rolex 6263 Panda .
Let’s not forget this though: The Killy is one of the very few complicated watches (some argue the most complicated watch as it is a chronograph and triple calendar in one) Rolex ever made. It is discreet, subtle, sporty but elegant. In short it is a true watch for the connoisseur who appreciates a sophisticated timepiece that is understated.
This is Rolex at its best and in my opinion there are enough Rolex collectors out there who value this complicated model and will recognize the importance of this watch. It is out of favour right now but for all the wrong reasons in my opinion.
This sale will be very interesting to watch.
Estimate is CHF 300-600’000.
Dial is flawless.
Probably unpolished case – exactly how it must have looked like when it left Rolex in 1960.
2: A hyper rare 1964 Rolex 6238 black early dial pre- Daytona chronograph
This Rolex chronograph is one of the rarest ever made by Rolex.
Not because of the reference number but rather because of the black dial. Of the circa 2400 total made (6234 dials) I would guess 1% of them have a black dial. I already wrote about the black dial ref 6034 as a PAK watch here. The 6234/6238 black dials are tricky to get right.
Now you might think that I have confused things. After all this is a 6238.
Indeed, it is, but it carries an early dial left over probably from 6234. So, I am quoting production number of the 6234 (2400) which are more accurate in order to assess the value of this watch. For the collector who is frightened by the black dial confusions of 6034/6234 and 6238, they shouldn’t be. What is important is to match the dial with the correct case number and of course ref model of the watch.
What does this mean here? So, for a start you could technically assume that something is wrong. A 1960s case and model number with what seems like a late 1950s dial? Doesn’t make sense. But let us look at the details.
If the dial was a Swiss only version I would have been concerned (as those are normally attributed to 6034 and perhaps the earliest of the 6234). But look closely at this watch and signature. We have a floating t above the Swiss. This indicates that the dial lume was tritium based which is correct as by the mid 1960s radium was discontinued and banned in Rolex watches for health reasons.
To further complete the picture, I have spoken with Phillips experts and they confirmed the lume of this watch is indeed tritium. And lastly if there were any doubts at all, an early Rolex book by Lang & Meis has this very watch inside with this exact configuration as is today. The book was written in 1993 long before Instagram and values of Rolex were astronomical. It is clear this watch was born with this dial – at least we have every reason to believe so.
The estimate is high for this watch but totally accurate. This dial layout in galvanic print with silver writing and multi scale in black is among the rarest dials ever made by Rolex. This is true art in dial making, costly and complex to make.
Oh and did I mention the dial has turned a beautiful brown?
This Rolex is for the true connoisseur and I expect it this to be fought after.
Estimate is CHF 250’000- 500’000.
Notice the floating t’s below.
T standing for tritium as radium was no longer applied as lume due the hazardous concerns.
This is a Le Monde Edmond type of watch. A multi scale dial in galvanic silver print. Rare and beautiful.
3: A 1965 Rolex 6238 Pre-Daytona
We move on to something also not often seen.
A grey dial 6238. The silver dial 6238 are far more common, so many collectors are not very familiar with the grey dial version. (which are even more seldom seen than the black dial on steel 6238).
Sold to the USA with ROW stamped movement – it also comes with a Rolex USA jubilee bracelet, a rarity in itself.
Collectors tend to pay close attention to the grey dial version which can command premiums of up to 30-40% above the silver dial versions.
The estimate of CHF 30-50’000 makes sense.
4: A fine pair of 1947 Rolex Ref 4500 Chronographs.
The 4500 ref Rolex chronograph is not a well known watch from Rolex.
But is among the first post war chronographs, with a nice size at 35mm with both telemeter and tachymeter scales. What makes these two watches interesting is that they are cased in 9K gold, something rare and unusual. They also have consecutive case numbers and most likely come from Serpico & Laino, the well known Venezuelan retailer.
It is important to note that nowhere on the case OR the dial is the Serpico signature visible. But since this watch comes from a private collector who has owned them a very long time, we can be more assured that the box is indeed original and fit together with the watches.
A true treasure, these pair of Rolex watches will delight the connaisseur of early Rolex chronographs.
Estimate is CHF 60 -120’000
5: A stunning 1958 Rolex ref 6234
If your looking for a watch with Patina – look no further than this 6234 from 1958.
Many collectors might not know this, but the 6234 is very rare watch – especially in gold (a little more than 100 pieces were made). Steel versions of the ref 6234 are far more common. This watch normally has a silver /white dial but because of the way it has aged, it has taken on a much more attractive appearance.
With the heavy patina on the dial (which I love) you could almost think that it was born with champagne dial. While the hallmarks are visible on the back of the case, apparently the reference number is not legible anymore and cannot be deciphered.
I think due to the unique way the watch has aged, there will be a lot of collectors looking at this watch very closely. I expect a good fight.
Estimate is CHF 50-100’000. A closer look at the wonderful dial of this 6234 which has evenly aged with time.
The back of the watch has an interesting engraving. Notice stamps on top left and lower right lug (from position of wearing).
