Background info
The 1954 Rolex 6200 Submariner is the king of all Rolex watches.
Sure there are more valuable watches from Rolex, like the Daytona 6263 RCO or pink gold Killy 6236 not to mention the 6062 triple calendar oyster. But all those watches carry a complication. The 6200 is the most important time only watch Rolex ever made.
In fact, I would argue that the 6200 is the most iconic and mythical watch Rolex ever made.
The most important line within Rolex is the Submariner. It represents the history and DNA of Rolex like no other line. Let me explain why.
The submariner is among the oldest lines within Rolex (only the explorer is older). The submariner was the first diving sports-watch along with Blancpain (see post here). It has authenticity (think British sub acqua club) coolness (think the James Bond films) and history being started in 1954. The submariner is the evolution of Rolex’s most iconic and timeless design – the oyster case.
The king of all subs is the 6200 big crown. It is the very first Rolex diving watch marketed to the public along with the 6204 small crown in 1954. What differentiates the 6200 from the other early Rolex diving watches is the Explorer dial. The 6204 and the 6205 would not carry such a configuration. Also it is the FIRST big crown watch. Plain and simple.
Eric Ku, who has sold 11 pieces (and handled significantly more than that) and has seen more 6200 submariners than most people on this planet says the following: ‘ The 6200 is special for three reasons. 1). It’s one of the first very Submariners made. 2). It has the “Big Crown”. 3). It has the explorer style “3-6-9” dial. Furthermore he says: ‘Any of these three attributes in their own right would make a watch special, but the trifecta of all three make it the most desirable of any of the references. Aside from the fact that the combination of the latter two make it look amazing, unencumbered by any sort of additional lines, or red text- just monochromatic, simple yet special.’
Not much is known about the 6200. That has a few reasons. For one it is quite an elusive watch – not many of them are around. If you think an explorer dial 5513 is rare (and it is very rare) well the big crown 6200 explorer dial is much more rare. It is THAT rare.
One quite good report has been written by Baron, the Rolex moderator from Purist. He also happened to be an owner of a big crown at the time of his report which helps credibility wise.
In terms of production numbers one Asian owner/collector states the following: Its serial numbers from roughly 320xxx to 322xxx and around 300 pieces made according to his estimate.
What should collectors look for in a 6200 Submariner?
What should collectors look out for in a 6200? I think it’s an important question to ask and I can find no direct information on this topic as I was curious about this question myself. So I asked various big crown owners as well as some experts at auction houses what to look for in a correct 6200. Here is what I have found:
- Look out for strong Geiger readings. This has been discussed publicly on the VRF before in depth. 6200 was made at the time of radium and the lume should show some type of activity. This not the only important measure but one measure to use.
- The dial should show some spotting due to the radium aggressiveness. Like this dial here. Or on this dial here. If a dial looks too clean or too glossy on a 6200 I would question it. Like one well respected blogger told me if the hands were radium and luminous too and the dial not show any traces of radium aggressiveness leaving its mark – it is a warning flag.
- Look at the dial under special UV light. If the radium shines but shows no strength on the Geiger – that should be a warning sign. The opposite is also true of-course.
- Analyse the dial with a high resolution microscope. Look for consistency in lume structure and also how it matches the hands.
- Look at the color of the lume. In most cases it should not be flawless yellow. It should show ideally traces of black or green. Much like on this watch here. There are some 6200 that are perfect yellow lume but then look out for a case that is equally well preserved (a dented and scratched up heavily used case and perfect luminous dial is another warning flag).
- Last and most important: The overall patina should match. This is such an important point. If there is too much of a mis-match again this should be a warning flag. For a brilliant post on matching luminous on hands and dial and luminous evolution please see the post by Rolexpassionreport here.
The 6200 existed in many variations
With or without the submariner logo? Big or small? One line for four line? There were a few different big crown 6200 submariner watches that were available.
In terms of desirability I think it is safe to say that the more sought after dials are the one with large logo and not small logo**. As far as the dial variants in terms of the script goes – here it is really a matter of taste. Some prefer the submariner logo on the dial– then there are others (like myself) that like it without the submariner script*.
My opinion is that everybody who has the slightest idea about vintage Rolex will know that the 6200 is of course a submariner anyway. As to why Rolex left out the writing on some dials – the theory and speculation is that they had some trademark issues with the name and was only allowed to use it after those issues were properly settled.
For a better understanding of the various dial variations that existed with the 6200 Submariner please see the pictures below after the report.
What do owners say about the 6200?
Why is the 6200 the king of all the submariners? Why is it so alluring? Again I asked some owners (four of them) and here is what they said:
- With the 6200 you feel you’re wearing a piece of history on your wrist. It was the first big crown diving watch made in series. And the only one with an explorer dial – as the other big crowns that came after the 5510 and 6538 did not carry explorer dials as standard option (the 6538 does exist in explorer dial version too). – British collector and owner.
- The 6200 with its particular shaped Rolex crown is unique and immediately recognizable. Also the unique bezel insert to the watch with no 15min markers stands out. – European collector.
- An Asian collector owner writes: It gives him strength and confidence wearing his big crown 6200. The distinctive dial layout 3,6,9 is simple and powerful and instantly recognizable. It is a simple and powerful design that separates this first big crown from all other Rolex watches.
- Another Asian collector /owner calls it the KING sub. The dial design, simple layout of 3,6,9 is just perfect.
- A US based collector / owner says this: The 6200 is instantly recognizable the way no other big crown can be. People often confuse the 6538 and 5510 but the 6200 is do distinctive with the explorer dial layout and longer extended Mercedes type hand and no hash mark bezel. He calls it a clear unicorn.
Concluding comments
When you ask Rolex collectors what is the most important diving watch, the holy grail of all subs? They will all answer the big crown 6200. Many Rolex collectors will say the 6200 submariner is the ultimate Rolex to own full stop. In many ways I share their enthusiasm.
The submariner is the most important Rolex model. I would argue it is more important to Rolex and their history than the Paul Newman which would only come 10 years later. Submariner is Rolex DNA like no other line.
And the grail model for submariner will always be the 6200 big crown. It is the true Icon like no other.
(Credit: * Nicolas B – Christies. ** Marlon di Simone – watches in Rome. Main picture: Eric Ku). I would also like to thank Joe Roseman, Silas, King Jim, Eric Ku, P Goodwin as well as Nicolas B for their help and contribution to this article.
Below for your viewing pleasure a few more 6200 big crown submariners in different dial variations. Lets start with a nice 6200 big logo with submariner text. Owned by US collector and friend of mine.
Another view of the Big crown 6200 with submariner logo. This superb shot taken by my friend A Touchot of the 6200 on my wrist.
An additional beautiful big logo 6200 this time without text. This watch was seen at Christies in May 2016 and went to a well known US dealer.
An up close perspective of the dial of a 6200. The 6200 often shows some spotting due to the aggressiveness of the Radium. (Picture credit: Nicolas Biebuyck – Christies).
Below a nice picture of the 6200 Submariner with small logo. (Credit: M di Simone).
Another superb picture of a large logo no submariner print 6200. (credit: J Roseman, PuristPro Watchprosite). This watch is now owned by a US based Asian collector.
A HK based collector with his 6200 and HK in the background (credit: Silas).
Another shot of the 6200 belonging to a HK collector. A splendid no submariner script big logo type example.
This next 6200 also belongs to another HK collector. Below a superb shot of the watch in a RR. (Credit: Kkevalll).
Another shot of a 6200 together with a Explorer Rolex tropical. (Credit Kkevalll).
A nice shot of the 6200 with pitting on the dial. Love the hands on this example too. (Credit: Nicolas B).
A big crown 6200 should have the BREVET 8mm big winding crown of course. (Credit: Nicolas B).
