When you think of ‘tool watch’ most collectors rightfully think of Rolex.
But what many collectors are not aware of is that Patek also made a so-called ‘tool watch’ for professionals like scientists and engineers working in magnetic fields.
The Amagnetic or Anti magnetic watch was launched by Patek in 1958 (Rolex can claim to be the first with the Milgauss in 1956).
Some collectors might be familiar with the 3417 – the first anti magnetic reference from Patek. Hodinkee did an article on the watch already back in 2014. The 3417 (especially the first series type 1 dials) has become extremely collectable in recent years – in fact just last December, Bonhams auctioned a Beyer signed dial for $115’ooo including premium (see details here).
The reason for the increase in popularity for the 3417 can be explained by a few factors: 1)The watch with the ‘playful’ Amagnetic script (not all 3417 have this script) is beautiful and elegant. 2) The proportions of the watch are stunning 3) Patek rarely made tool watches so it is a rare reference – only approx. 500 (source: Mstanga) were made. 4) Some big collectors in the watch scene have the 3417 (type 1 and 2 dials) in their collection and this has caught the ‘attention’ of other collectors.
My reason for this post however is not to write about the 3417 (Mr. Mstanga has written an extremely awesome and comprehensive guide to this reference-see link here). Rather this post is to introduce another Amagnetic reference the 2570-1 non-explorer dial (see main picture above).
Never heard of it? Neither have I until recently.
(credit: John Behalf/ John Nagayama)
A recent post by a Japanese dealer of fine vintage watches on Instagram (John Nagayama) got me looking into the 2570/1.
At first I thought it was the 3417 until I realized that they are both entirely different references made by Patek. While I really love the 3417 – I must admit I find the 2570/1 – especially the version above (non explorer dial) perhaps even more beautiful. Now many collectors might rightfully ask the question: Why would any collector buy a tool watch made in gold? It is like buying a Rolex Milgauss in Gold (not that Rolex made any). Doesn’t really make sense does it? Well that is exactly why I like it. Not everything has to make sense in life.
Not much is known about the 2570/1. What we do know are a few things.
1) The 2570 seems to be the successor model to the 3417 (although many argue it was made at the same time). 2) The case is slightly different (see picture above). If you notice the lugs are positioned more towards the outside of the case given the watch in a more ‘elegant’ touch in my opinion.
The watch thus looks more like the stunning 2526 or the 3448 – both must have Pateks in my opinion 3) Whereas the 3417 was only made in steel, the 2570/1 was made in both rose gold and yellow gold with two different dial layouts, the explorer dial layout (see below middle watch) and the extremely rare non explorer dial layout seen above. 4) The 2570/1 carries both the 12 AM 400 movement and the 27 AM 400 which is the same movement as the second series 3417.
As to the difference of the 2750 and 2750/1? I could only find one difference from a Sothebys footnote: The 2570/1 has a crown positioned partially set into the case (which I find highly attractive – much like the AP 5516 see here), as opposed to the 2570 which has the crown positioned completely outside the case. Another reference from Patek where the crown is set partially inside the case is the superb 3448.*
Below a cool Patek Philippe Ad showing the Amagnetic (with no script 2570/1) with explorer dial and the travel dual time – both important technical achievement in the 1950s.
(Credit: J Reardon – Christies).
I wish I could provide more information on the 2570/1 non-explorer dial. But I cannot.
Its such a hyper rare reference and not much has been written about it. In fact the 2570/1 non-explorer dial version is so rare that the last watch I could find at auction sold in 2003 by Christies, more than 13 years ago (see link here).
So there you have it. Patek made two Amagnetic or antimagnetic references. The 3417 and the reference 2570/1 which includes the highly elusive ‘non – explorer dial’ version. A great way collectors can distinguish between the 3417 and the 2570 is the following trick: If you see an Amagnetic on dial of a Patek and it is in rose gold or gold than you know its not 3417 (since they only made them in steel). It thus must be the 2570 or 2570-1.
Credit: Bottom picture provided by Roni M who owns a superb collection of Antimagnetic Pateks. *Credit: Watchonista
NB: For collectors interested in the 3417 I highly recommend Mstangas Amagnetic guide available here.
Lets show a few pictures of these Patek Tool-watches.
This picture, by Roni M, superbly captures the beauty of these Amagnetic or Antimagnetic references by Patek.
The beautiful 3417 (with the rare retailer signature Freccero on the far right) and the equally stunning 2570 in the middle. Although the 3417 is more collectable today – the middle watch the 2570 with explorer dial was nearly 50% more expensive than the 3417 which was only available in steel (source: Mstanga).
Below another fantastic picture of a second series 3417 by J Roseman.
Lastly a wristshot of the 3417. A superb reference indeed. Also credit J Roseman
Another great picture of the 3417 belonging to Roni M. Notice the long minute markers and large seconds sub dial. According to the expert Mstanga – this is a type 2 dial.
This next picture is of the hyper rare and elusive 2570/1 in pink gold. In all my research I could only find two of these watches for sale at auction ever, and only one for sale by a Japanese dealer Nagayama a long time ago. It is out of all the Amagnetic watches by Patek Philippe – by far the rarest model and many would argue the most beautiful.
This is one of the watches sold, by Christies in 2003. It is a hyper rare reference and already sold for CHF 78’ooo in 2003. The watch came with the original certificate.
A very rare ad featuring what is presumably (?) a 2509 Calatrava Patek Amagnetic. Even a 4lbs magnet was no match for the anti-magnetic watches.
(Credit: J Reardon, Christies).
