Insight Phillips Geneva auction highlights Nov 2016: Part III – A connoisseurs view
Fine WatchesCollector's InsightFine WatchesEventsPhillips has some extra- ordinary watches coming up for sale this November. We covered the top sport Rolex watches here and the Patek 1518 special here.
But what about if I had to choose watches besides Rolex sports models and complicated Pateks? What if I just went through the catalogue and choose my favorite 6 watches that speak to me in terms of beauty, style and just plain coolness? Here are my six picks if budget was no issue and I could pick the most beautiful watches that appealed to me personally. I did not pay attention to importance, condition or collectability.
I simply choose these watches based on beauty. Sure it also based on my knowledge of watches so far and what I find personally beautiful has partially to do with my knowledge. But I tried to make my list – based purely out of emotion, passion and aesthetics. Here are my top 6 picks out of the 196 watches that Phillips is offering this November in Geneva:
NB: (It is important to note that I did not have the opportunity to inspect any of the watches below – except the 2526 Patek – personally yet. These are just my recommendations based on aesthetics and my taste in wristwatches at this moment in time. It is up to the collector to inspect the watches personally and do his homework). For more information on each lot click directly on the Lot number and description below. All pictures are credit – Phillips watches.
I don’t write much about IWC. But when its oversized (42mm), made in the 1940s, and a Portugieser (the original Icon) with a black dial and Breguet numerals – well then you better believe that I start paying attention.
This is one of the most beautiful IWC watches I have ever seen for sale. According to IWC it is among one of the earliest Portugiesers ever made and houses a Pocket watch calibre. The black dial is glossy and the white Breguet numerals provide a wonderful contrast and I also love the 24hr scale which very few watches surprisingly have. The watch comes with a certificate (that everything is original and the watch has been inspected by IWC) as well as an extract of archive.
If this was a Patek – we would be looking at a million dollar watch. The estimate of this watch is CHF 30 – 60’000. Anywhere within this estimate would be a very good buy in my opinion.
Another view of this superb and stunning watch. My taste 100%.
Lot 95: 1957 Patek Philippe – Ref 2526- retailed by Serpico & Laino
It is no secret that one of my favourite watches of all times from the house of Patek is 2526.
It is for me the essential time only watch. It is beautiful and understated and Pateks first automatic movement, the legendary calibre 12-600 AT. The beauty of most 2526 (some dial were made in silver like for the platinum and diamond models) is the fine and delicate enamel dial that this watch carries (to most it looks like a normal off white dial). Enamel dials are complex to make and very delicate and can crack very easily. As a result most Enamel dial 2526 have developed thin cracks over time. This dial is void of any cracks (according to Phillips) and furthermore is interesting with the well known Venezuelan retailer signature Serpico & Laino. This watch is cased in pink gold which is rare (only white gold enamel dial is more seldom seen). The overall case seems strong and the S&L stampings can still be seen on the caseback.
The last detail I love with the 2526 is the winding crown an inverted PP symbol. That is in itself a piece of art.
This exact watch was sold by Christies in its 2014 Patek 175 anniversary and achieved CHF 87’500. Let us see where this watch ends up this time around.
(For a nice in depth on Enamel dials and what to look at for see the new Hodinkee article here).
The back of the case with the S& Y signature still visible.
Lot 117: 1940 Rolex Ref 3335 Chronograph
Followers of my blog also know that I am a big fan of the all pre-daytona Rolex chronographs.
I believe the dials made prior to 1963/4 were more complex and more beautiful to make than when Rolex introduced the legendary 6239 first Daytona in 1963. So to with the Ref 3335 Rolex which goes back even further to the 1940s. Today these chronographs are collectible due to the large size (38mm) and state of the art dials.
This watch is interesting for several reasons: 1) it has a wonderful silver gilt dial which contrasts marvelously with the black dial 2) the dial is in very good condition as well as case – practical unpolished. The numbers on caseback still visible and the lugs still retain their factory brush surfaces 3) the dial has two scales on the watch – a telemeter and a tachymeter scale. I do love multi -scale dials.
If your a collector of Rolex chronographs – this watch is hard to ignore and belongs in any serious collection. Estimate is CHF 100-150’000. A high price but a also a killer watch and worth paying up for.
The back of the watch showing the case number very clearly.
Lot 121: 1938 Breguet ‘black sector dial’
I like Breguet for a number of reasons and in fact am working on a post of this master watchmaker.
While I appreciate Breguet for its immense history (think inventor of the tourbillon, Breguet balance spring, not to mention legendary watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet) , there is another reason I like Breguet wristwatches very much. It is the fact that between the start of the war and the end 1960s – they hardly made any complicated wristwatches (military Type XX aside).
So when a chronograph pops up from the end 1930s I do pay attention. This watch seems in good condition with a nicely aged sector dial that has turned tropical contrasting nicely with the cooper coloured tachymeter printing on the dial. According to Phillips this dial has remained free from any restorations over its more than 70 year life. A certificate from Breguet confirms that this watch left the Breguet factory in 1938 and was sold one year later in 1939.
I think due to the small size (32.5mm) this watch might get completely overlooked which could present a cunning collector with an interesting opportunity. Estimate is CHF 40-60’000.
Apparently the winding crown is still original after all these years (which would be exceptionally awesome if true).
Yup. Another Rolex chronograph from the 1940s.
Like ref 3555 before (Lot 117) this watch has a multi-scale dial. Both the telemeter and tachymeter are printed in silver print contrasting again nicely with the black dial. This particular watch also has handsome beige numbers with the lume still being in-tact. The watch is masculine with square pushers and the case is strong with all case numbers legible and present. The movement is valjoux based (cal 22) and is of course a manual wound watch.
These 1940’s Rolex chronographs are rare and complex featuring multi-scale dials. The estimate of this watch is CHF 100’000-150’000. This barely buys you Paul Newman today (certainly not one with screw down pushers). I promise you multi – scale Rolex chronographs are less seldom seen.
Below another view of the marvelous multi scale dial – that is a piece of art.
Lot 192: 1913/1928 Patek Philippe Gondolo
I have recently discovered an attraction to 1920’s Gondolo Patek Philippe watches.
They represent elegance, sophistication and immense style and above all I love the rectangular shaped case. This watch is interesting for two other reasons 1) it is cased in pink gold which is rather rare (most were cased in yellow gold). Secondly the retailer signature is a Brazilian Gondola & Labouriau which already carried Patek watches in the 1880’s. It is important to note that the case was replaced some time in 1929 and the watch does not carry it’s original case anymore. The long signature of Patek Philippe & Co obviously is correct for this period.
While the watch is nice and rare, I personally don’t quite understand the extremely high estimate of CHF 150-300’000 for this watch. It is a time only watch and only because it is cased in pink gold is not a reason to pay anywhere near the estimate in my opinion. Nonetheless a fine and elegant early Patek that I would monitor closely.
Another view of this magnificent watch from the back with the long signature still present.
(NB: All pictures credit – Phillipswatches).
