Early submariner gilt dials. Why do collectors adore them so much?

They are so simple.

Often no more than a black lacquer/glossy dial with gilt printing on them, they give collectors unending pleasure. There is no complication here. Just a plain simple submariner dial that depending on the light – changes with color.

What is the magic behind these dials? Why is something so simple, so sought after and becoming very expensive for collectors? Let us explain.

What seems like an ordinary dial is in-fact not so ordinary.

In fact the dials are quite sophisticated and they explain why collectors are so in love with them. The black glossy dial you see above -the model is a 1954 Rolex submariner Ref 6205 is the result of  a complex manufacturing process that was at the time very expensive to do and is clearly state of the art.

As Christies writes in their Lot Notes of early Rolex watches: ‘The gilt writing and minute markers are not printed on the black lacquered background but underneath and shine through in negative relief’. Therefore it is presumably this process which allows the color of the gilt printing on the dial to change depending on how the dial catches the light. Gilt writing can appear gold, or more white depending on the light. Also wonderful is how the black lacquer dial can change.

As early watches have radium spots, they are also visible, or not, depending on the light. In part II we are going to take a look at several pictures using the same watch. Under different lighting conditions. This will explain perfectly what we are talking about.

For now just enjoy a pure gilt, glossy dial of an early Rolex submariner 6205 above.

For part II of Rolex Gilt dials please click here

by Edmond Saran