Le Monde Edmond

December 17, 2014

Rolex submariner gilt dials: The magic behind them – part III

Fine WatchesCollector's Insight

Rolex gilt dials are magical.

We explained that in our first part – where  we explained the process behind making the gilt dials with ‘negative relief’ with the printing of shining through rather than being put on top of the dial. In the second part we showed an example with several pictures of different lighting using a 6536-1 from 1957.

In this latest series we let a collector from the Middle East show his fabulous 6205 Rolex with a different type of lighting (dark versus light).


Early submariners are magical and no other watch changes its character quite like an early Rolex. This is why the collecting community of Rolex is so strong and global.

Simple design with a DNA that has history and is understandable is universally attractive whether your from Europe, the United States Asia or the Middle East.

Rather than write more lets have Mr. Hatem Fawzy explain with his watch and photography the magic of early gilt dial Rolex. The watch he is showing is a very rare 6205 Rolex from 1954, so a radium dial watch. The watch is serial Nr 8585x.


 ‘In the first picture below the watch is out in full sunlight. The dial is angled to show the deposit of radium dust which collected on the dial over the 60 year life of this watch.

This is an important trait of these early radium lumed submariners which helps impart some of the magic and also acts as a proof of authenticity.

A totally clean dial with zero radium dust may be cause for concern. Another warning the lume plots are radium in type comes from the lighter lume plot at six o’clock which is nicely seen in the picture below‘

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‘In the second picture  there is low key indoor lighting from a far window that nicely outlines the gilt drawing surrounding the radium lume plots and shimmer on the reflective surface of the lacquered dial as well as gilt hands.

Notice how the lume plots appear darker now in color because of the light and hands appear very golden or ‘gilt’.

Also because of the light which is not shining on the dial the radium dust cannot be seen on the dial anymore.’

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‘In the last picture the watch is photographed from a low angle to display the 3D effect of the radium lume plots which appear like little ‘moons’ on the dial (in contrast to the picture above where they seem almost flat).

Lighting can play magic on Rolex gilt era dials and early 1954 Submariner is no exception.’

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(We would like to thank Hatem Fawzy for his analysis for this post. You can follow him on Instagram HDFANATIC here)

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