Le Monde Edmond

March 27, 2017

Auction Alert King of all Rolex watches: The Bao Dai Rolex 6062

Fine WatchesCollector's InsightFine WatchesEvents

We were the first Blog in the world to tell you, the full story of the Bao Dai watch – the king of all Rolex watches.

Now we are also the very first to tell you that it is coming to the market. Yes the Bao Dai watch Rolex will be sold in Geneva in May by auction leader Phillips watches.


When I went to Phillips watches in Geneva to look at the May auction preview – Aurel Bacs compared the Bao Dai watch to a 12 cylinder 250 Ferrari GTO. Now at first I thought it was an odd analogy to make not least because the Ferrari 250 GTO is the Mona Lisa of cars – and as cool as the Bao Dai watch is – it is not the end game in watches. But I actually think Aurel is on to something (more on that later).

When the 6062 came out it was the most complicated Rolex ever made. It was made in a variety of dials, with the black dials being the rarest and most collectable. However the late Emperor of Vietnam, had the most expensive and exquisite taste (more on this and also his Ferrari he owned here) and thus ordered a 6062 oyster black dial with Diamonds – the most expensive watch to leave the Rolex company of Hans Wilsdorf in 1954.  

Simply put – this was the King of all Rolex watches at the time. There was nothing more expensive. It was like ordering the Bentley R type Continental fastback* in the 1950s at the time. It was the most expensive and luxurious available. 

The Bao Dai Rolex watch is one of three known black dials with diamonds (the other being the ex-Mondani watch here). What makes the Bao Dai stand out however is that it is the only watch to have 5 diamonds instead of the six on the dial (the other two 6062 both have six diamonds on the dial). 

What does it feel like to hold the Bao Dai and what is my opinion of this watch in general?


First the watch is simply stunning.

Yes the provenance is cool but even if the watch was not owned by Bao Dai – any black dial 6062 with Diamonds is just dope. It is in my opinion the pinnacle of all Rolex watches (more on that later too). Let us look at this particular watch in more detail.

What makes this watch so cool is that it is an oyster case so the DNA of Rolex but a unique movement made only for this model 6062 : A triple calendar with moonphase. The layout is clean, functional and has perfect geometrical proportions in my view.

If we look at the dial more closely we see the details the make any 6062 – but particularly this one such a marvel. The watch has small and fine circular lines around the moon phase area – see picture below. In this case the OCC is written below the moon as the dial layout does not leave room for the text below the date windows. More on why Rolex choose to do this please see our in depth report on the Bao Dai watch here.

The rest of the dial does not have these lines and the main part of the dial has a glossy finish.

The dial, as you would expect with a gold 6062 is signed ‘Swiss’ which is ofcourse correct (note – steel 6062 have ‘Swiss Made’ signed on the dial) barely but still visible on the picture below.

As far as the crown is concerned – this watch carries a slightly different crown to what we are used to seeing. A Rolex Super Oyster crown – without the Swiss cross. Although I am used to seeing a slightly different crown (one with a cross for this reference) – this crown also appears to be correct and is sometimes seen on this reference 6062. 

Ofcourse the Bao Dai carries a nice plexi that is slightly domed and not flat like modern saphire.

The black dial 6062 with Diamonds is a magical watch to hold. The proportions are just perfect at 35mm and it also sits very well on the wrist. It is a sports watch but also an elegant timepiece and it really does hold the best of both worlds in this respect. The jubilee bracelet feels good and it is original to the watch and stamped accordingly. 

This Rolex watch is a superb ‘allrounder’ – meaning you can wear it with a suit but also with a shirt and shorts while on a beach – and that is what makes it so great.


The Ferrari 250 GTO Analogy

Now back to that analogy that Mr. Bacs made.

First he probably made this because he knows I am also a car collector and can relate to cars. Secondly making bold statements is something Aurel Bacs likes to do and I admit he is a very good marketer. 

But his reasoning for relating this watch to the Ferrari 250 GTO is actually quite sound. The 250 GTO is a front engined V12 cylinder Ferrari – something that is the essence of the DNA of Ferrari the brand (let us leave the racing aspect aside for the moment). In that respect the 6062 Rolex fits the bill here. The 6062 is housed in a oyster case and also thus represents the Rolex DNA like no other model. So in this respect both items, the 250 Ferrari GTO and the Rolex 6062 Oyster represent their respective brands DNA extremely well.

But the similarities continue. The Ferrari 250 GTO represents the pinnacle of Ferrari. It belongs to the most iconic series, the 250 series and is the car that proved to be extremely successful for Ferrari in racing and thus carries historical significance.  The 6062 black dial 6062 with 5 square diamonds Rolex is no different. It represents the top of the pyramid for Rolex, in terms of luxury, exclusivity and rarity (much like the 250 GTO). It also carries historical significance.

So what the 250 GTO is to Ferrari, you could argue that the black dial Rolex 6062 with diamonds is to Rolex. The very top of the collecting pyramid today. Yes Rolex made a split seconds ref 4113 which is the most complicated to carry the Rolex name – but the movement is not signed Rolex and the case is not very typical of Rolex at all.

The most complicated and exclusive Rolex watch in the world with proper Rolex DNA is the black dial 6062 with diamonds. Plain and simple.

What is the Bao Dai worth on the open market?


We will soon find out the answer to this.

Officially Phillips states that the watch is expected to fetch in excess of CHF 1.5m.  The last time the Bao Dai came to market was in 2002 and it fetch a then world record price for a Rolex watch of CHF 370’000 at Phillips de Pury.

Just how much is the Bao Dai watch worth today? Well I can tell you a few things. First it will achieve a heck of lot more than CHF 1.5m. Secondly in my opinion it should eclipse the current world record for any Rolex: A 4113 split seconds that sold last year for CHF 2.4m at Phillips.

In my view the Bao Dai is a more beautiful and more important watch. And that will have its price*.

*The Bao Dai ended up selling for CHF 5m in the Geneva May 13th 2017 Auction led by Phillips watches and their brilliant auctioneer – Aurel Bacs.


For an in-depth report on the Bao Dai Rolex – please see our post here.

(NB: Main picture shows Emperor Bao Dai (white jacket on the right) with French General Navarre during the 1950s.  Special thank you to Phillips watches for allowing me to see this watch in person and take detailed pictures).

*(Picture credit: Sportscardigest)

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