Why are collectors so attracted to two-tone dials? And what is meant by two – tone dials anyway?
When you ask collectors why they like vintage watches one of the most often answers you are likely to get is ‘because of the patina’. Vintage watches develop a certain patina with time, which can several forms. Sometime only part of the dial changes colour like on this Daytona Panda 6263. This leads to the dial taking on two different colours – a term some collectors wrongly refer to as two-tone.
Just as many collectors refer to a Rolex submariner that has the slightest hint of brown as tropical – many collectors refer to a dial that has taken on different colors due to age as two tone.
But the strict definition of two-tone dials is a different one.
The definition of two – tone
Strictly speaking in horological terms – a two tone dial is referred to a dial that is born with color differences or subtle differences in textures. For example on the Rolex 6062 as we will see later, the differences can be very subtle; two very similar tones are subtly offset by different surface finishes. This is by horological standards, a two – tone dial.
Again to reiterate our point – because it is so important: Two – tone dials are not created with time and age and the result of patina, but rather because the way a dial was born. The ageing process only can amplify a two tone dial -it cannot create a two -tone dial. This is an important distinction to make!
Sometimes two tone dials are not just the result of surface finishes but also different color tones. Like on this splendid 1940s Longines or this Patek 130 sector dial.
For example the watch in this report – a Rolex 6062 pyramid dial was born with a two-tone dial – (something I was not aware of – and learnt as a result of writing this report). It just so happened that the two tone process and color got enhanced, or exaggerated if you like due to natural ageing and thus collectors can clearly see two different colors.
Let’s briefly look at why collectors are attracted to two – tone dials to begin with.
Why are collectors attracted to two – tone dials?
According to a leading expert and auctioneer two tone dials are attractive for several reasons. 1) they are rare – more rare than uni-color dials. 2) the interplay of various colors on the dial is more interesting than only one color. This refinement appeals to our eyes. Just look at this spectacular two tone 6062 in steel.
(Credit: Jason Singer).
3) just like two tone colors on old cars are worth more to a collector because of its beauty, so too are two -tone dials on watches – they have more character than dials with only one color. 4) Two-tone dials age extremely well under certain circumstances. Look no further than the 6062 Rolex as a good example.
A study of two- tone dials looking at the white dial Rolex 6062: an ideal candidate.
The watch in the main report, a Rolex 6062 triple calendar with pyramid dial was put up for sale at Phillips in May 2015 and in the description is referred to as a ‘two tone’ dial. This is because it was born this way.
Indeed – I was not aware of it either – but the 6062 white dial was born with a two- tone dial.
The Rolex 6062 white dial has three different textures on the dial. The main part of the dial (day and month aperture) has one texture and the moon phase another texture. The outer ring for the date has yet a third texture for better visibility allowing owners to the read the date more clearly. Yes, the 6062 was born a two – tone watch.
Look at this almost NOS example of a 6062 which was sold last May at Phillips. Even though the watch sat for most of its life in a safe and is virtually mint, a slight difference is noticeable on the dial. Look carefully and a two – tone dial is noticeable.* This is solid evidence that the 6062 was born with a two-tone dial. Two – tone being referred to the ever so slightly different textures on a 6062.
It is this different texture that has allowed many 6062 to age in a very attractive way with time. Look at the picture below.
Looking at the 6062 from a different angle allows for better viewing of two – tone nature of the dial.
The dial of the 6062 Triple Calendar has a certain texture to it to begin with.
Often called graine, the white dials of the 6062 are not glossy dials but rather matte in nature. If you look closely the dial has a certain texture. For example, in the moon disc area thin lines that run across the dial – as in this picture here of untouched mint 6062 below.
(All three pictures above – Credit: P Boutros)
The dial as a result on a 6062 is not completely even and uniform as can be seen vividly in the picture below.
In fact the 6062 dial texture reminds me of sand paper. It is this part of the dial that has taken up this slight beige tone stopping exactly at the beginning of the outer ring where the calendar numbers are. The picture below clearly illustrates the two – tone nature of the dial.
(Credit: P Boutros).
This sand paper texture stops exactly at the outer ring of the dial where the date ring starts.
From a subtle two- tone to a strong two-tone
The textures of the 6062 amplified the way the dial on this has turned two tone in nature. This is why this watch has aged the way it has. The outer ring remains white because it did not have this texture allowing for what is today a clear two tone dial color contrast. Had the watch has one uniform texture the watch presumably would have one color. That is light brown.
Below another fantastic picture by Paul Boutros showing the two-tone nature that has been amplified by ageing.
(Both pictures credit above: P Boutros).
One of the best examples of a two-tone 6062 I have ever seen – is this steel 6062 owned by a US collector. Look at the way the dial has perfectly aged, giving contrast to the dial and the outer-ring of the calendar.
(Credit: Jason Singer).
Most 6062 will show signs of lighter and darker tones in most cases
We know now that the 6062 had different textures on the dial as can be seen in the pictures above.
This means that most 6062 with white graine dials (not counting the black 6062 glossy dials) will often show some kind of ageing. Like on this steel 6062 – which is admittedly an extreme case. Or on this honest Gold pyramid dial sold at Antiquorum in 2015.** I would offer the following advice: when you see a 6062 with a very white dial that is uniform in color – I would be cautious in proceeding (unless it is NOS or in practically unworn condition). A white dial that shows no difference between main part of the dial where the apertures are for day and month and the outer calendar ring – indicates with some probability (in my opinion) that the dial has received some kind of treatment.
Yes, it is true that some 6062 dials are white and uniform in color but then they are NOS like the famous ‘sock 6062’ that sold at Christies for a then record CHF 542’ooo for a gold example – see details here.
Final thoughts
I thought I knew what two-tone dials meant after collecting watches for several years. Until I called my friend who is also a leading auctioneer and expert in vintage watches who quite quickly re-educated me.
Besides being the most complicated Rolex model in series with an oyster designation, the 6062 is fascinating because of the different texture on the graine white dial models. So the next time you have a white dial 6062 in your hand – study the dial of a 6062 closely. There are three different textures on the dial 1) moon phase area 2) date aperture area 3) the outer date ring area.
Two – tone watches are born two – tone watches. There is no two – tone watch that becomes that way due to age alone. This is a very important distinction I learned. A perfect illustration of what is meant by two-tone can be found studying the white dial reference 6062.
NB: (For full disclosure I or my trust own a Rolex 6062 pyramid dial similar to or the same one in this report. Credit: all pictures above of the 6062 pyramid dial go to Paul Boutros of Phillips watches NY. *Credit picture: SalonQP. ** RPR – P. Stahl / I would like to thank Aurel Bacs for his knowledge on two-tone dials that he shared with me).
Just for your pleasure some more pictures of this two-tone pyramid dial watch. The first pictures show another nice picture of the dial. The two- tone nature of the dial very nicely visible in this picture. (Picture Credit : Timetodrive).
The two tone nature of the dial is only partially apparent from the front (see above) however from the side – the two tone nature becomes more visible and apparent.
Even from the front the two tone nature of the dial is recognizable depending on the light. Like in this picture below.
The next two pictures show a star-dialed 6062 which also developed a nice patina due to the two-tone dial. (Credit: J Singer).
Another shot up-close. Notice that this time and unlike the pyramid dial before – the light beige patina spread to the outer ring of the calendar far left of the watch. (Credit: J Singer).
Here another superb steel 6062 with beautiful two-tone dial that has developed a nice patina. (Credit: P Stahl – Rolexpassionreport).
The last star dial we show is in almost NOS condition.
This my friends, is also an example of a two – tone dial. I was not aware of that. Only the slightest hint of a darker tone in the outer ring rather than centre is noticeable. This watch would set a new world record for a star dialed 6062 selling for over $1m at Phillips in November 2015.
For an in-depth look at the 6062 black dial configuration – please see our report here.
