10 vintage Rolex watches/references in ‘pink gold’ to die for
Fine WatchesCollector's InsightRolex was always known as a maker of fine sports watches first and foremost.
It is therefore understandable that most of their watches were made in a robust material like steel. Of course, like any leading watch brand with history and prestige, they also created gold and pink gold watches. While Rolex produced most of their sports-watches in steel, they made many fine gold and pink gold watches within their sports watches line as early as the 1940s and 1950s. I am thinking large oyster cases (so called large bubble backs) like the 6098, 6298, or the elusive 6099, but also chronographs like the 6034.
Then suddenly things changed. Especially in regards to the material pink gold.
For an unknown reason, around 1958, Rolex stopped making pink gold chronographs. They would first re-introduce pink gold in chronographs exactly 50 years later again in 2008 with the modern Daytona (116505). In fact, besides day-dates, Rolex made very few pink gold watches from 1960s onwards.
Pink gold, also known as rose gold, or in some cases ‘red gold’, has a fascination for almost everyone who ever comes into contact with the material. For many it has a more alluring shine than normal gold not to mention is a more rare and complex material. Pink gold is a mix of gold and copper and silver (sometimes even platinum).
What makes things even more intriguing is that often these pink gold watches by Rolex were retailed by South & Latin American retailers based in Cuba (Joyeria Riviera) or Venezuela (Serpico Y Laino). It was a time of economic prosperity for many of these countries in the 1950s and not unsurprisingly, many beautiful watches came out of that market as a result. I would like to share some of these watches with you.
Here are 10 watches-models that Rolex made, all in pink gold, that right off the bat, would make one of the greatest Rolex collections. For the most part they are chronographs (7/10), because Rolex just didn’t make many of them in pink gold.
(Credit for 6098 Antiquorum and 6099 John Goldberger, 6034 Mario Dissette).
1: A 1940’s Rolex 3335 Chronograph black dial
It should be no surprise that I love gold watches with black dials. They just look sporty but yet elegant at the same time.
One of the most beautiful black dial gold watches was made in a very early Rolex chronograph reference called the 3335. I was aware of many beautiful black dial examples, but they were all in steel*. When I stumbled upon a black dial in pink gold, I nearly lost it. Imagine a 1940’s watch in pink gold with black dial and 38mm in size. My friends, it really doesn’t get much better than that.
I have not been able to find any pink gold 3335 ever being sold at auction. One nice steel one sold here at Phillips. This example I show here is in the 100 Superlative Rolex watches by Goldberger (p72, 73). It has a serial number 496xx. The case is a snap back (so not water resistant), and was made by Favret Perret and movement Valjoux based with three a dial register. Goldberger captures the beauty of the watch beautifully below.
There is not much to add other than to say this is one of the most important Rolex chronographs ever made. Also one of the most beautiful.
(Picture Credit: Goldberger).
2: A 1958 Rolex 6232
If you have never heard of a Rolex 6232 don’t worry. Neither have I until recently.
This early Rolex chronograph was supposedly made only for the French market in 12 pieces only (according to Christies/Phillipswatches literature). All happen to be made in Pink Gold. Much like the sister reference (6032) which was a previous PAK watch of mine and also will be listed in this list, the 6232 is an early and rare Rolex chronograph that was only made in one metal. Pink Gold. Why you might ask? I don’t know the answer.
Unlike the 6032 and 6034 which both house a 72 Val calibre movement – this watch carries movement A23.
Below is a marvellous 6232 from 1958. The watch is a three body case with two registers (much like the 6032) and the case was made by CR Spillmann SA.
By pure coincidence – long after this report was started comes this news: This very watch is being offered by Phillips watches in their June auction in Geneva (estimate is CHF 200’000 – 400’000). More details soon.
(Picture Credit: Goldberger).
Another nice and very rare pink gold 6232 Serial Nr 394xxx which was sold by Christies in 2014 for CHF 125’000 against an estimate of CHF 60-120’000.
Notice again the two registers and Christies also describes the dial as a two tone dial (hard to tell from the picture). What is most interesting is how the scales of the two watches differ on the sub-dials (above with 10 minute indicator and below with 20, 40min for left sub-dial). Also the watch below has both a telemeter and a tachymeter scale, as opposed to the watch above which only has a tachymeter scale.
Another difference is the layout of the Rolex signature. Below a three line dial versus the two line for the watch above.
(Credit: Christies).
If I am not mistaken this watch was already sold by Antiquorum back in 1992 for CHF 32’200. So these 6232 were always in strong demand for their beauty and rarity. Below a picture of when the Rolex was sold back in 1992 with Antiquorum.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
3: A 1950 Rolex 6032
Another early dream chronograph is the Ref 6032, hyper rare and exclusively made in pink gold.
The 6032 and the 6232 above have many similarities: 1) they both have two registers 2) they both are made in extremely small quantities (less than 20 pieces for both) 3) they were only made in pink gold 3) they have the same case maker Spillmann 4) both have a 3 case-type construction.
I have written about one 6032 that appeared in auction in 2010 and sold for CHF CHF 57’0000 already back then. Of the two known examples that I have found, both tend to be found near the years of 1950, and both have case numbers around 685 xxx and 693 xxxx.
I show the most stunning example I could find which was this example 686 xxx and brilliantly captured by John Goldberger once again. This is the most beautiful 6032 out there.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
4: A early 1950s Rolex 6034
For me the Ref 6034 belongs to the pinnacle of Rolex watch collecting, especially, if your into chronographs. I have written about various 6034 as they are very rare watches, not only in gold, like this superb rare example, but also in steel with black dial.
One of my favourite examples is this pulsation dial example (credit: Goldberger). I love it for its simplicity but also complexity (it has a rarely seen pulsation dial). The movements in all the watches below carry a Cal 72 (Valjoux based) movement.
Another beautiful pink gold example retailed by Joyeria Riviera in Havanna Cuba.
Not only does this watch have the famous retailer signature on the dial, but it also has carries something else, once again a rarely seen pulsation dial (even if I have just shown you two examples). This watch is not only in the Goldberger book of 100 superlative Rolex watches, but also in the Fratini book ‘My time’, indeed Sandro Fratini is the owner of this marvellous watch. Just for fun, here is another famous retailer Serpico Y Laino based 6034 also in pink gold (credit Goldberger).
The watch carries a case Number 692 xxx.
(Credit: Goldberger).
An additional very nice example of the 6034 in pink gold is this watch with a rather simple dial lay-out, belonging to an Asian collector who was kind enough to send me the following two images. The dial seems to be in outstanding condition. See below. The watch has a serial number 977 xx and is from 1955.
With the nice ‘graine’ texture still in place. The sub-dial below is typical of the reference 6034.
Remember how I said pink gold is made of some copper too? Here is the evidence below. The gold just shining differently than normal yellow gold.
(Credit: Mario Dissette).
What is most interesting (but certainly not unusual) is that this 6034 also in pink gold has a different case back. Notice the Rolex font below versus above.
(Credit: Mario Dissette).
The case-back above belongs to the watch below and to a notable chronograph collector with a good eye for details – Mario Dissette.
Notice the unusual hour index markers. The watch has a serial Nr 944 xxx and is from 1957.
(Credit: Mario Dissette).
What is most fascinating, is that the watch was sold in Luanda in 1957. Yes you read the right. Luanda, the capital of Angola. Below is the original guarantee. The word LUANDA is written where the date is (notice the D of Luanda above the number 5 of 1957).
5: A 1950 Rolex 6062 star dial or stelline
One of the most mythical of all Rolex watches has to be the 6062 star dial or stelline. The star dial might not be the rarest dial configuration (spade and pyramid are far less seen) but is it probably the most attractive.
Pink watches (180) are just infinitely more rare than gold watches (670) according to Eric Tortella, and therefore can be considered a grail watch, even if steel versions can easily match or exceed pink gold 6062 . The watch I show here is quite a prominent one having belonged to Gordon Bethune. Sold in 2012 (CHF 590k) by Christies, the same watch fetched more than 3x that for CHF 1.94m at Phillips last December 2019.
The pink 6062 can be considered a true blue chip within the Rolex world, even if the most sought after versions (black dial with diamonds) are not found in pink gold cases but rather gold cases. For more on 6062 in general please see this post here.
(Credit: Watches by SJX).
6: A 1953 Rolex 6062 Explorer dial
Even if it is considered less of a grail than the stelline, the 6062 Explorer dial in pink gold is a top collectors watch.
Known only in so far three registered examples, the pink gold with explorer dial already back in 2015 fetched a very strong price (CHF 1m) at Phillips watches. Most of the explorer dials are found in steel watches – which are extremely collectable and fetch outstanding prices at auctions. The only other publicly known pink explorer dial I am aware of can be found in the Goldberger book on page 140, 141.
Both carry very close serial nrs of 788 6xx range and are only 26 case numbers apart! Watch below is property of an Asian collector. Truly a fabulous picture!
(Credit: Iceman284912).
Because the watch 6062 (Explorer dial in pink gold) in the Goldberger book is so nice – I also feel obliged to show it here.
(Credit: Goldberger).
As is often the case with these watches, the case back is crossed out 6063 and instead 6062 is substituted.
6: A 1949 Rolex 8171 Padellone
I would be crazy not to include, what many view, is perhaps the most elegant Rolex ever made: The 8171, nicknamed, the ‘Padellone’.
Larger in size than its sister reference 6062, it is only one of two Rolex models to have a moon-phase. The most beautiful pink gold I have seen, is a very early 8171 which was also once a PAK watch and was sold by Christies in 2008 for nearly $300k. This version is special due to its special dial layout (notice double swiss signature) and first series dial with small and cut-off Rolex coronet.
The case also is outstanding and deserves to be in this list of all time great Rolex pink gold watches.
(Credit: Alfredo Paramico).
7: A 1955 Rolex ‘veriflat’ Model Ref 6512
To write about pink gold watches and not include the Veriflat model would be a mistake in my view.
Rolex introduced the Veriflat model in 1955 with the special calibre 1000 mechanical movement that made the watch ‘very flat’ hence the model name Veriflat. It was made for only 1 year in 1955. Maybe Rolex intended to compete better with other prestigious watch makers like Patek and Audemars at the time. Despite its relative rarity, the Veriflat isn’t very high on collectors wish list when it comes to vintage Rolex. I still think it is a model worth including for its sheer elegance. I also appreciate the lume on the dial.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
8: An early 1950’s Rolex 6036 Killy
A pink gold Killy 6036 must be considered one of the all time great Rolex watches out there for collectors.
It really has everything you could hope for: looks, complication (triple calendar, chronograph) and has good provenance with one of the great sportsmen – Jean Claude Killy – being an early wearer of the watch. One of the nicest examples I have been sent, is this watch from the noted scholar and collector Pucci Papaleo directly. The case and dial seem untouched. The blue outer calendar scale showing a nice blue color. The serial is 693 xxx and from the early 1950’s.
(Credit: Pucci Papaleo).
Another spectacular example is this double signed ‘Serpico Y Laino’ from an Asian collector and friend of mine.
The case, like the watch above, shows signs of oxidation (from presumable sitting in a safe its entire life). Notice the slightly different dial layout with the crown being under the day and month windows. The 12 sign has taken the place of the Rolex crown below. Also worth pointing out is the different hands of the watch below. The dial below also is a more pronounced two-tone dial.
The watch below is Serial Nr 847 xxx and so is slightly later than the watch above.
(Credit: watcharts).
9: An early 1950s Gabus Ref 8206
The ‘Gabus’ is one of those rare Rolex watches that remains elusive even today, both in research and in physical examples.
According to Davide Parmegiani/Christies in the ‘my time book’ only circa 75 pieces were made in both gold and pink gold. Made in 1949 for three years only, this square type Rolex is named the Gabus after the Gabus brothers who supplied Rolex with the cases (at least according to one theory). The case is unusual as well as the square format and I find the Gabus both beautiful and fascinating. Not many pink gold watches have been sold publicly and the most recent one at Bonhams fetched USD 30k back in 2017.
Below a wonderful Pink Gold 8206 with matching pink gold bracelet from the Pucci Papaleo Rolex Chronograph book.
(Credit: Pucci Papaleo).
For the collector of pink gold Rolex watches, the Gabus is a most have for its beauty, rarity and shape. Just look at the picture below. This watch just is so classy and stylish.
(Credit: Massimo Barracca).
10: A 1935 Rolex 2508 ‘Pink with black dial’
While the 2508 is relatively rare, it might be surprising to see it on my top 10 list of pink gold Rolex watches to own.
After all, many might think that the most collectable are probably the first series black dial/steel versions. I have found one watch though in pink gold, with a black dial and first generation case (so olive pushers) that is simply stunning. I would have to think-they are less of them made than the steel versions, and thus my decision to include it, in one of the all time great Rolex pink gold watches list. You can be sure that there are not many of these watches around. It is rare for a multitude of reasons:
For a start, as I mentioned earlier, this is a first generation case. Secondly, this is the very first example I come across in pink gold and black dial. Third, it features a very rare 3 line multi scale dial. For me pink gold and black multi-scale dials belong to the most attractive combination in watches – period.
The serial nr is 383xx. This could easily be a PAK watch. It blew past its estimate when it sold for CHF 108’000 (estimate was 40-60’000) in 2006! That was huge money back then.
(Credit: Christies).
I would especially like to thank John Goldberger and his fabulous book / App 100 Superlative Rolex watches and for the use of his many pictures for this post.
Editors note: I have deliberately left out some very nice Rolex pink gold watches. For example I did not include early Ovettone’s of which exceptional examples exist in pink gold.* I didn’t include them as I was unsure about the dials and felt it was simply not my expertise. I also left out important early Rolex day-date like this dream 6611 with Arabic calendar**. Reason: I felt that pink gold day-dates were made continuously by Rolex, also in the 1970s, and 1980s, and thus concentrated more on pink gold Chronographs which Rolex stopped making sometime around 1957/58.
* Credit: Phillipswatches **Credit: Christies, ***Credit: John Goldberger / Modern pink gold Daytona credit: Bobs watches 116 505.
For your pleasure I included a few more wrist-shots of wonderful pink gold Rolex watches. First a fabulous pink gold 6034 owned by a Asian collector. Early and simple dial layout can also be nice.
(Credit: Johnathan Wong).
Below a marvellous Killy 6036 in Pink Gold retailed by Serpico Y Laino. It is one of the few Killy’s where the crown is situated towards the centre of the dial.
(Credit: watcharts).
Last picture is a wonderful 6062 Pink Gold with Explorer dial. Property of an Asian collector.
(Credit: iceman284912).
The last is a wrist-shot of another nice 6034 in pink gold with special hour markers.
(Credit: Mario Dissette).
