Le Monde Edmond

February 4, 2019

Collector series 50 goals a vintage watch collector should aspire to: Part 3/5

Fine WatchesCollector's Insight

21. Own one watch with original paper: If a watch has history what nicer way to celebrate it than with the original receipt, instruction book or guarantee that came with it. I generally adhere to the rule of ‘buying a watch’ first and foremost (and not worry about papers), but among the 50 goals a watch collector should have, involves owning at least one watch with some form of original paper -like original receipt (see picture below), original certificate of origin, guarantee, chronometer papers or even instruction manual.

(Credit: Banzaff).


22. Own one watch with fancy lugs or a fancy shape: I think as a watch collector – you should own one watch that is not normal and round in shape. Either the lugs should be fancy, or the shape extremely unusual (think 1831 Rolex or a Gilbert Albert Patek) but it can even be something as basic as a Patek 1593*. If you want something more exclusive a Patek 2442 Marilyn will also do nicely**. Missing.

* (Credit: John Behalf and credit for watch above also JB). ** (Credit: Christies watches).


23. Own a vintage Reverso: If you had to name a few of the most important and iconic models in watches that has stood the test of time- the Reverso would be one of them (along with the Calatrava and Submariner) all three of which feature on this list to own. To think how far ahead of its time the Reverso was is just mind-blowing and I love the polo playing aspect to the watch.

For me it’s clear: one of the greatest watches ever made.

(Credit:Antiquorum).


24: Own one watch with an Oyster bracelet: Much like the Submariner – the oyster bracelet is one of the all-time great designs of Rolex. With the clever oyster lock system to prevent the bracelet from opening  – the design is legendary and for me every sports Rolex belongs on an oyster bracelet (Nato’s are fine to change the look in-between). With the oyster bracelet Rolex had created one of the great inventions yet again, for both its style, durability and also function.

For me the oyster bracelet is a piece of art.


25Own one split seconds complication: Many collectors think a minute repeater is the most complicated function in a watch – but it is not. This title belongs to the split seconds. My dream would be to own a split seconds mono pusher but I am aware this is costly goal to have. As a result, I will also accept a split seconds in a pocket watch (which are undervalued). However, I show one of favourite split seconds watches ever made (1436 Patek with long signature). Missing.


26. Own one watch where the dial has changed color: Similar to the Patina argument – this detail is slightly different. Whereas Patina can mean many things (among which is a dial that changed color) this argument is purely about a dial changing color. One of the great things about vintage watches is the color change a dial can take on over the years. From different shades of brown to different shades of yellow there is something for everyones taste.


27. Own one watch with Enamel dial: It is my dream one day to own a watch with Enamel dial. The vibrancy of colours in Enameling are wonderful and appeal to me. Missing.


28. Own one watch made during the second world war: This may seem like an odd goal for some but let me explain. During the war watch companies scaled back their production and you have to respect all buyers of high end watches during that time period of extreme economic uncertainty. On the other hand, you also have to admire all the Swiss watch companies that kept on producing watches despite the large uncertainty with their end customers. Especially Rolex deserves praise, who even sent watches to those who served without expecting payment till the war had ended (so called POW watches).

Another reason to like watches made during the war: Patek watches during this time period carry the attractive long signature – another benefit of owning a watch during that period. 


29. Own one platinum watch: Much like owning a gold watch, every collector needs one watch cased in platinum – the most noble material available. While the 750 gold stamp is relatively common – the 950 stamp or markings is much more seldom seen on watches – denoting the material platinum. For example a 2526 in Platinum with diamond markers would be a nice goal to have.


30. Own one sub-seconds watch: I have very strong opinions on this subject. The most elegant evening watch is one with sub-seconds and not central seconds. Sub-seconds are just that much more elegant and leave most of the dial free of any moving and distracting movements. All my evening watches (that I have bought myself) have sub-seconds and I would only accept a central seconds in a sports watch. One of my favourite sub-seconds of any reference is the 2570-1 Patek Amagnetic – or 3417 in steel


 

Sign up for our newsletter
Newsletter