The vintage Rolex submariner is in high demand at auctions. This is not surprising given that Rolex invented (along with Blancpain) the diving watch category.
Collectors appreciate the essence of a Rolex tool watch that performed a function and also happened to have a great design. Given the strength of vintage submariner at auctions, especially the small crown models 5508, which are achieving record prices (see result of this 5508 and also of this one), I thought it would be interesting take a look at another particular small crown model – called the 6536-1 – and study the details.
And just for the record, the 6536-1 submariner is infinitely rarer than the younger 5508. So, to study three 6536-1 in original condition, as we do below, is a rare treat for a scholar and collector and readers of my blog.
Collecting vintage Rolex is all about mastering the details. Just one year can make a major difference in what a correct dial, bezel insert looks like.
Get it right, and your watch is worth a fortune. Get the details wrong and your watch is worth a fraction what you thought it was. This is especially true with early 1950’s Rolex submariner diving watches. I will show you three of the same model Rolex, but each slightly different.
These three watches show just how tricky and subtle Rolex collecting is.
The Rolex submariner 6536-1 is a small crown sub that came out in 1956, it is one of the earliest diving watches from Rolex. I wrote about it here comparing it with another small crown the 5508 back in 2013. The 6536-1 was only produced for a very short period of time (3-4 years) but different variations exist within this model.
Let us study three different watches of the same model, the small crown Submariner 6536-1. You will see how Rolex collecting is ALL about details. We start from earliest (1957) to last (1959):
1: A 1957 Rolex submariner Ref 6536-1 with 2.3 xxx serial nr
If you look at this watch, you might think it has similarities to the 6204 and 6205. Why do I say this?
Because the bezel insert could belong to the earliest of submariners like the 6204 or 6205. It has a silver triangle non hash bezel insert. The later ones from the same year would switch to red. And these red no hash triangle bezel inserts are exclusively found in one year 1957 (and is the rarest insert of them all). It is the very small but important details like this, that make collecting Rolex so difficult but also rewarding (when you get it right). Other attributes that distinguish this early watch from later ones is the following:
- Thinner gloss on the dial than later versions (with gloss more matte in nature)
- Double gilt (depth and ‘submariner’ text) each a slightly different shade
- Lighter number 6 luminous plot (see pic above)
- Large white lollipop seconds hand which is typical of this early submariner
The movement on this watch (cal 1030), with the so called ‘butterfly rotor‘ is in incredible condition.
2: A later 1957 Rolex submariner Ref 6536-1 with 306xxx serial nr
This watch is produced in the same year as the watch above, is the same model but yet is different. Let us look at the subtle differences.
- For a start with notice the red triangle but still no hash mark bezel insert, which is absolutely correct for this reference
- We also notice a more golden / orange gilt now
- Lume plot at six, like with the watch above, is lighter
- Slightly more glossy than the watch above but not as glossy as watches from 1959
- Two lines of gilt print (see picture below)
Again the 1030 calibre (which was used in all 6536-1 references).
3: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref 6536-1 with 399xxx with serial nr
This 6536-1 submariner is from the last batch that were made in 1959 which also was the beginning of the 5508 production (the 5508 came out in 1958). Not as rare as the earlier 6536-1, this watch stands out for its good original condition. Some of the differences to the other two watches are:
- Red triangle insert with hasmarks for first 15minutes
- A slightly more white print with the depth rating
- Much glossier dial than the earlier two 6536-1 above
- Uniform lume plot at six o’clock like the rest of the other lume plots on the dial
This last 6536-1 stands out primarily for the extremely glossy dial. It is presumed that by this time Rolex perfected the complex manufacturing of gilt dials with special reverse printing – something I discussed a few years ago here. Below another angle of the rich deep glossy dial.
Notice the original plexiglass with scratches from the original owner below.
Summary & closing remarks
Studying three different diving watches, but yet all the same model (6536-1) within Rolex shows us a few things.
- First; changes were subtle and small, but they took place. Even within one year of production the small crown submariner had progressed and improved- for example changing from silver triangle to red – but still no hashmarks all within the year 1957.
- Secondly, studying these three watches shows that Rolex became better at manufacturing dials with time. The first watches in 1957 were no where near as glossy as the later watches (even if Rolex would revert to matte dials later on again). Later series 6536-1 were more glossy and perhaps less prone to ageing as the manufacture of the dials became better.
- Last it also shows that the lume and depth print slightly changed color: The lume* from a more whitish beige (first series) to more orange (second series) back to than beige and all uniform. The depth print going from silver (first two series) to more white /beige (last series).
Rarely does one get the opportunity to study 3 perfect Rolex diving watches that are original and in such fine condition.
I am grateful to him for this post and it gives us all the chance to learn about small details that make Rolex collecting so rewarding.
* (As the collector and owner of the watches admits and adds ‘the lume and its color is of course dependant many factors like humidity, light etc – that can affect how the luminous ages and change in tone over time’.)
