If your looking for an elegant and understated (time only) wristwatch- Christies watches has you covered next tuesday in their December  NY sale.

Among the fine watches offered are a series of automatic Patek’s from the 1950s and 1960s which in my opinion still remain under appreciated. They are simple, elegant and are really pieces of art: in the design of the case, the crown and the movement. For some reason they are still somewhat overlooked even though they are highly important watches.

Lets look at a few of them and talk about what makes them such great vintage watches.

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Before we go into the four lots – allow me a few general comments first.

We are only going to take a look at three references, the well known Patek Ref 2526, and Ref 3415 (which carry both the same movement) and Ref 3445 which carries the improved movement – the 27-460. These three references are interesting to look at for various reasons.

First they are important in Pateks history. The Patek 2526 is the first automatic movement the firm made. Secondly and this is perhaps the most important reason to write this post – is to make the comparison of two legendary movements that both these watches carry. We will take a short look at the 12-600 AT vs. the 27-460.

The 12-600 AT (AT stands for automatic) has almost a mythical status among the collecting community as it was Patek ‘s first automatic movement in the firms history, a milestone. Many collectors view the movement as one of the most beautiful in the world with the 18k gold rotor and beautiful guilloche on the rotor itself. Made for 8 years between 1953-1960 the legendary 12-600 powered no less than 14 different references for PP according to expert John Reardon. 

The successor movement, the 27-460, essentially improved on the 12-600 with a thinner thickness (4.6mm movement thickness – hence the name 27-460) and was in production for over 20 years, 1961-81. Both movements were true workhorses for Patek and powered some of the most beautiful automatic watches Patek ever made including the 2551, 2552, 2526, 3215, 3445, 3446, 3448. Lets take a look at a few of the lots more closely. 

(At the end of the report John Reardon graciously takes some superb wrist shots of the four lots highlighted in this report).

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Lot 107; A 1954 Patek Ref 2526 First series Enamel dial

This watch is interesting and rare as it is the first series 2526 with fine Enamel dial.

First series watches have flared holes for the indexes to be mounted (which you can see with a loupe) that differs from later dials were the indexes were simply mounted with glue. The flared holes was complex to do as it required a total 26 holes, a labor intensive process. This watch is further distinguished by the enamel dial which has no cracks. 

Was makes this particular example very attractive to any collector is the fact that it was serviced by Patek Philippe in 2015 and is ready for the next owner to wear. Estimate of this watch is $20-40’000.

My verdict: First series 2526 are very rare and soon good examples with no cracks will be unobtainable.

A front view of the watch with Enamel dial first series (with flared holes).

 

This watch is a dream for the sophisticated and understated collector. A nice view of this superb first series 2526.

Another view of the side of the watch with wonderful Calatrava case and beautiful PP winding crown.

 

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Lot 109: A 1957 Patek 2526 with black Enamel dial first series

A 2526 Patek is a rare watch, but one with a black dial (first series) is extremely rare.

First things first. The watch case of this Patek was made after the black dial with flared holes went out of production so it should be stated: there is a possibility that this watch was not born with this dial. However according to John Reardon – in that period Patek supplied dials that they had left over or often at a request of an owner put in a special dial (even if it would not be mentioned in the extract of archives). Indeed Patek expert Reardon thinks that there is a strong possibility that this watch was supplied with this dial.

What is furthermore interesting to note, is that the watch was made in 1957 but first sold in 1964, so seven years later.

The estimate for this watch is $50’000 – 100’000.

Black dials with gold cases are extremely sought after by collectors due to their striking appearance. Although I personally prefer black dials in sportswatches I think that it works also for this reference very well. 

My verdict: For the right price this watch could prove to be a good purchase for a Patek collector.

 

Below a nice picture of the movement of the 2526 black dial. 

 

Let us look at this celebrated and iconic movement 12-600 AM in more detail. Notice the large gold rotor 18k with guilloche – it really is a piece of art (Credit: John Reardon).

Another splendid view of the hyper rare black dial first series 2526 with PP crown.

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Lot 185: A 1958 Patek 3415 with PP crown

This watch belongs to my favourite in the entire sale.

Ref 3415 is not a well known reference as it was only made for two years before it was discontinued. This watch has a perfect case size (35mm) made by Wenger that is screw down and thus water-resistant. Only 40 pieces are estimated to be made of this reference in pink gold and this watch appears to be one of the very first batch made. The condition of the case is outstanding according to Christies and is practically unworn. This particular watch carries the celebrated movement 12-600AT with its guilloche 18k gold rotor and of course al the wonderful PP crown.

The estimate for this watch is USD 10-15’000. It is an elegant watch, perfect for the evening in pink gold.

My verdict: This would be my choice for an evening watch. Elegant, sophisticated and understated. You are getting an extreme amount of watch for very little money in my view.

The wonderful case can be seen nicely in the picture below.

Look at this marvelous case design and nice PP or ‘qp’crown. This watch was made in a period when watchmaking was considered an Art.

This reference is the perfect example of elegance in time only. Simple dial layout with sub seconds – which is the most elegant in my view. Notice the lugs on this watch which gives it a completely different look than the 2526.

 

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Lot 187: A 1968 Patek Ref 3445 

Reference 3445 of Patek carries the improved movement 27-460 which replaced the legendary 12-600AT. 

While I normally don’t like date windows in evening watches, I like the simplicity of this dial layout, again with the subsidiary seconds (for me personally – the most elegant layout). Furthermore the case design of this watch is exceptional: Notice how the crown goes into the watch case. This 3445 is in white gold and carries that improved movement which we will take a closer look at below.

Estimate of this watch is $12’000 -18’000. My verdict: Another overlooked reference in my opinion. Rare, beautiful and understated.

The watch is elegant as the picture confirms. Look below how the crown goes into the case – simply superb!

 

Notice the difference in rotor on the 27-460 which is non guilloche but for that is thinner (and presumably less heavy). Both the legendary references 12-600AT and the 24-760 carry the 18k gold rotor – except the movement below is improved and slimmer. 

Another view of the 27-460 movement can be seen below. Notice the 18k big gold rotor – (sans or without guilloche).

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Lets take a look at a few wrist shots to see how the watches wear. Because at the end of the day this is what really counts!

We start with the Ref 3445 with date window. I love how the crown goes into the case (something the Ref 2526  – as elegant as it is – does not have).

Next up: Lot 106 the first series Patek 2526 with PP crown (you can see the instruction manual for the 2526 infront).

The black dial 2526 which is perhaps the rarest version. Even in black and white the dial pops out very nicely (for a normal picture to get a sense of the black dial please see here).

Next up the very elegant Patek ref 3415 which also carries the 12-600AT and PP crown in a nice case. This is for me even more elegant than the 2526.

Last – just because it is so beautiful- another view of the 2526 first series with PP crown.

(A special thank you to John Reardon for taking some great pictures and especially for his insight into these rare and special watches).