In-depth review Datejust: A closer look at a Rolex Icon Part 2
Fine WatchesCollector's InsightEver wondered what the most valuable line within Datejust is?
As you might guess, it is those with diamond dials. And it is exactly such rare models that I intend to cover in this report Part 2 (in part I we looked at the early Datejust models 4467 up to 6075). Here the intention is to look at Datejust models from the 1950 to the early 1960’s. This includes references 6104 – 6105 – 6305 – 6309 and 6605 with the main focus being on the 6105. This series of Datejust models are interesting to look at for a multiple of reasons.
- They include the most valuable Datejust, the 6105 with diamond dials
- They are multitude of dial differences within even one model line (like the Datejust 6105/04) so it is interesting to look at the variations. After all, with Rolex, the devil lies in the details.
- We dive into 6305 diamond dials, which are not known to many collectors
Because Rolex has a special know-how with special stone dials (ref 1601), I briefly include them just because it would be a mistake to leave them out. Let’s get started.
(A fine and unsual 6105 signed Serpico in pink gold / Credit: Christies).
The Iconic 6104 /5
In circa 1950 Rolex came out with the legendary Datejust ref 6105 (04).
The 6105 is one of the most famous and coveted Datejust models today, due to the various dials and colors that was available. Rolex made a fluted bezel version with the 6105 (see below) and the smooth bezel (6104).
(A fine 6105 in pink gold / Credit: Jim Gerber).
The 6105 was a new model for Rolex but had some similarities with the previous 6075.
In terms of case, the size remains the same as the 5075 so 36mm. The bezel is finely fluted (or milled) as in the 6075. Nothing has changed there. In terms of materials they are found in gold and pink gold. In very few cases you can find them for left-hand (I show one in the wrist shot section in the end). Movement is the same as the 6075 (A296 cal).
(Calibre A296 found in the ref 6104/5. Credit: Jim Gerber).
Regarding the dials, there are many variations: Black dials. White dials. Diamond dials in silver and diamond dials in black. Not to mention the different types of text on the dial. There are so many different signatures on the dial (both below the Rolex crown, but also at six o’clock ) that we will only go through the most attractive versions here.
(White dial of a 6105 with red calendar and red Datejust signature – Credit: Jim Gerber).
Rolex made two critical and important changes with the 6105 that all collectors should know:
- First, with the 6105 we can definitely say that Rolex moved from Swiss Made dials to the Swiss only signed dials. This is important!
- Second Rolex moved from no Datejust written on the dial to Datejust written on later models.
One of the earliest dials can be seen below. It is signed still Swiss Made and has the cut- off Rolex crown. What obviously makes this Datejust special is the very rare black dial.
(An early 6105 Datejust, Serial Nr 791 xxx / Credit:Goldberger Rolex 100 app).
Before I continue with later dials of the ref 6105 I want to briefly mention the 6104.
The elusive 6104
While the 6105 had a fluted bezel, the 6104 had a smooth bezel. It is interesting to study the 6104 as it is very rare and many prefer the look of a smooth bezel to the fluted one. Like the 6105, the 6104 was made in both pink gold and normal gold. Black dial and white dial. Also, as with the 6105, the 6104 was also made for left-hand market.
Let us look at some dial versions.
First an early dial version (type 1) from 1951. Notice the cut-off Rolex crown and Swiss Made on the dial. Serial Nr 820 xxx.
Another look at the Rolex 6104 ; this time with leather strap. For me a dream early Datejust by Rolex! My taste 100%.
What is nice to compare is the Rosegold 1952 Rolex ref 6104 also belonging to the same collector versus the gold dial above.
The main difference lies not only in the material of the watch (rose gold) but also in the text in terms of the dial layout. Above a two-line text but below a three line text. Serial Nr 857 xxx.
Let us look at the three-line text more closely and Swiss Made signed dial. Notice the Officially in red this time above the certified chronometer below. A nice 3-line dial versus the two line dial in the previous 6104 in yellow gold.
(All credits to all the 6104 pictures above Mario Dissette).
Back to the 6105
With time Rolex would transition to the Swiss only signed dials in ref 6105 and 6104. Also, the Datejust signature would now be seen for the first time on a Datejust model.
I assume the year to be 1952/3 but at what serial Number range is still anyone’s guess. Below a Swiss only signed dial, 6105. Serial 907 xxx. The watch was sold at Christies in 2015. Now for the first time the Datejust signature is on the dial, which is first seen on the model 6105. Previous datejust models (in Part 1) all didn’t carry the Datejust signature on the dials yet.
What makes the ref 6105 slightly complicated to understand are the many variations of script found on the dial. Not only is the order sometimes different (as we see below) but things are further complicated by the different colours the writing can have. Silver script. Red script. Black script. We will look at a few differences later on.
First to the order of text: If the 6104 had the officially rating on top, below we see a slightly different layout. Officially in the middle of Chronometer & certified.
(A 6105 with Swiss only signed dial and three line text at 6 o’clock/ Credit: Christies).
Another very fine Rolex 6105 with three text line at 6 o’clock (again officially in the middle) was sold at Antiquorum in far exceeding its estimate back in 2007. Serial Nr 907 xxx. This watch is just 28 numbers away from the watch above.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Below a rare left-hand version of the 6105 in pink gold sold at Antiquorum many years back in 2003.
Notice the early cut-off crown but yet later signed Swiss Only dial. I just wanted to show that left hand versions exist.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Please have a look at the unusual white dial in pink gold double signed that sold at Christies a while back.
I like this watch for several reasons.
- It is pink gold
- Double Signed Serpico Y Laino, so destined for Venezuela, where many fine watches went to in the 1950’s.
- I love the pink gold bracelet also signed Serpico and dated 1960. It seems to be a very early version for a Swiss only signed dial with Serial Nr 634 xxx.
My explanation for the early serial is the following: It is either a very early 1950 Datejust (which is my opinion) or it was made much later when Rolex re-started the serial number range in circa 1953 and by 1960 it was back to the 600 xxx range. At any rate, the watch sold for CHF 16’000 back in 2015. Today those 16k would not be enough to buy the pink gold bracelet (let alone the watch).
How times have changed.
(Credit:Christies).
One of the finest 6105 with ‘normal’ dials must be this white dial version that recently sold at Monaco Legend Group. It’s virtually NOS (new old stock) condition was immediately evident upon seeing the pictures.
This version with a type 2 dial so Swiss Only signed. Serial Nr 971 xxx. What is also interesting to note is the color of the Datejust written on the dial. It is in red writing something that we see sometimes with early Datejust 6105 with white dials.
While on the subject of 6105 diamond dials, let us take a closer look at this series.
6105 with diamond dials
Many collectors consider the diamond dials to be the king of all datejust models. I do share this view.
I have called one of the examples with a black dial and diamonds ‘the Baby Bai Dao’ given its close resemblance in appearance to the Bao Dai 6062, that probably is the greatest Rolex model ever made and among the most valuable.
Not much is known about the 6105 diamond dials by Rolex. We can only speculate that Rolex made them for a customer and decided to make a few dials afterwards. The only official document I found was this Rolex advertisement showing a white 6 diamond dial.
(Credit: The Rolex story by Mondani)
With my research I have been able to identify 8 diamond dials that have sold at auction (besides the few models that remain in private hands). Here are the details of what I was able to find out:
I have identifed 8 watches all with diamond dials (3 of them black / 5 of them white). Below six diamond dial in white, notice the slightly lower crown positioning due to the diamond at 12 o’clock.
(Credit: Leftpain /Z).
In terms of the serial Numbers and dial version here are all 8 listed starting with the earliest serial number:
- Rolex 6105 black dial 747 ‘794 (3 diamonds)
- white dial 770′ 139 (6 diamonds) Private collector
- black dial 798 ‘633 (5 diamonds) Mondani Rolex story book
- white dial 837 ‘205 (6 diamonds) Private collector
- black dial 837 ‘232 (6 diamonds)
- white dial 837′ 342 (6 diamonds)
- white dial 837′ 470 (5 diamonds)
- white dial 857′ 232 (6 diamonds) Pink Gold
Before I make a short comment on each watch individually, I would like to point out a few traits of diamond dials 6105.
- They are found in very narrow serial range numbers from 747xxx to 857xxx. We can pretty much say that all these watches were made within 12 months as they are only 100k serial numbers apart. Five of the eight watches are found in a super tight serial range all in the 837xxx. We can therefore assume that maybe these watches with diamond dials were made in a specific batch – something that we also see with the 6062 for example and specific dials.
- Regarding the dial, most of the diamond dials have no datejust written on the dial (with the exception of two, both of which are black dials). Not all black dials with diamonds however have the word datejust printed on them (see pink gold version below). Also, the main difference in dials seems to be the 5 vs 6 diamonds found on them. Only one version has 3 diamonds. Five dials of the 8 known have six diamonds on the dial versus 3 for the other dial layout. All of the dials carry a Swiss only signature so a type 2 dial. In terms of case materials, they are a mixture of gold and pink gold.
- Another interesting trait is that half of the white dials have Officially written in red and three line text. The rest of the white dials (Phillips, Christies and Goldberger book version) all have the white dial with two line text.
Allow me to briefly comment on the 8 watches all diamond dials:
1. The odd watch out here is definitely the 3 diamond black dial Rolex 6105 that sold at Sothebys back in 2010 for CHF 40k. It is the only watch that has a 3 diamond dial. It is the earliest serial Number of the 8 known to me.
Another and perhaps better picture of this rare beast taken by John Goldberger.
2. A wonderful white dial with six diamonds owned by a Japanese collector. Serial Nr 770 xxx.
3. A beautiful black dial owned by an Italian collector/dealer. Serial Nr 798 xxx
(Credit: Albyluxury).
4. This watch which I had found with a private owner, who has since sold it on, is also beautiful with its bracelet correctly dated. Since I have some great pictures of this watch – I share them.
(Credit: Alfredo Paramico).
(Credit: Leftpain / Z).
Nice hallmark on the case.
(Credit: Alfredo Paramico).
Details of the diamond marker and crown.
(Credit: Alfredo Paramico).
5. A recent sale of a black dial 6 diamond dial at Monaco Legend Group for €273k back in October of 2021. As far as I know it is the second highest price ever paid for a Datejust (at least at public auction and probably also privately). It is now owned by an Italian collector who has a fabulous collection of Ovettone or datejust.
(Credit: MonacoLegendGroup).
6. A fine white dial with diamonds. This watch sold at Phillips watches at auction back in 2016. For what seems today like a relative bargain: CHF 37’500.
7. With the next white diamond dial I cannot be certain it sold at auction (no data could be found) – I still thought it was still worth sharing.
(Credit: Christies /RPP).
8. The last watch with highest serial Nr comes from the Goldberger Rolex 100 book. It is in pink gold.
(Credit: Goldberger).
There are some other 6105 with diamond dials that were sold at auction where I don’t have the serial number. Still it is worth sharing, especially since one of the watches sold recently and is included in my list above.
The first one is a black diamond dial (6 diamonds) with Datejust written on the dial selling back in 2008 at Antiquorum for CHF 72’000. This is the same watch that sold at MLG last October in 2021 for a record €270’000.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
This second one sold at Antiquorum back in Geneva in 2010. It is the same version as the watch above (black dial with 6 diamonds and datejust written on the dial), but not the same watch.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Before we move on to the 6305, there is another diamond dial in private hands worth mentioning. It is extremely rare as it is in pink gold but also carries a black dial.
It is, as far as I am aware, the only pink gold datejust with black diamond dial that exists (at least in reference 6105). I do not have the serial number but can share a picture of the watch with you. It is owned by a private collector in France.
The 6305 /4 datejust 1953-55
With the introduction of the next model datejust 6305 sometime in 1953, we see many of the same attributes of the 6105.
The fluted bezel remains the same except for a small change in later models (the bezel is less finely fluted). The case size (36mm) and movement (A296 calibre) remains the same.
In terms of Serial Number, it is a fair observation to say that the most interesting dials of the 6305/4 I have come across are all in the 9xx xxx range (where previously the 6105 was seen in the 7 and 8xx xxx). What is also perhaps interesting concerning the 6305: This reference has the widest dial variation of any datejust model that I am aware of. I intend to show a few below.
I want to start with the most unusual 6305 I have come across first. Below six great 6305 (five of which have sold at auction).
- A possibly unique (at least for 6305) Explorer dial version sold at Christies back in 2015. Serial Nr 948 xxx. Most notable is the Explorer dial and absence of Rolex crown at 12 o’clock. Furthermore it is in pink gold, a rarity in itself. It obviously sold far more than the estimate (20-40) at CHF 50’000.
(Credit: Christies).
2. One of the finest 6305 I was able to find is this doubled signed version in pink gold.
Joyeria Riviera based out of Havana. This famed retailed is particularly sought after by collectors and it is no surprise that this watch sold for an incredible CHF 30’ooo back in 2007. Serial Nr is 971’867.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
3. The next 6305 is no less interesting.
An untouched, unpolished and mint black dial version with three line text similar to what we saw with the 6105. Cased in pink gold it carries the Serial Nr 971 ‘ 85x. It sold at Phillips watches back in for an incredible CHF 150’000 which surely must be a world record for this type of simple dial.
Quality has it’s price it seems.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Details of the 3- line text below.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
4. The next 6305 we see something very interesting:
Rolex made different dials for the 6305 even if the serial Number is almost the same. This watch below is 971 ‘ 88x and only 31 numbers away from the watch above! So, all else being equal we can assume this watch was made within the same day or the same week as the watch above.
But notice the difference in dial. A two-line text – all the same color. This watch came with the original chronometer papers and sold for a strong CHF 88k, not bad for a normal gold datejust.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
5. The next 6305 is one in steel with a very rare depth rating on a honeycomb dial.
Steel and honeycomb dials 6305 are among the most sought after datejust for collectors. The depth rating in red just adds to the allure of this trophy watch.
(Credit both pictures: Alfredo Paramico / GT).
6. Maybe the finest 6305 I have ever seen in pink gold.
Double signed by Serpico Y Laino and engraved on the caseback: Thankful for 20 years of service to a Venezuelan insurance company Seguros Avila in 1957. Obviously this watch soared above the estimate of €20-40’000 and sold for an incredible €117’000 in October 2021.
(Credit: Monaco Legend Group).
The clear crisp engraving – proof that this watch sat most of its life in a bank safe.
Ref 6304 Datejust (smooth bezel).
I briefly want to mention ref 6304 before we move onto the 6305. The main difference is the smooth bezel now versus the fluted in 6305.
Besides the smooth bezel, I have noticed that broad hour markers are very typical of 6304 Datejust watches. Another difference seems to be the outer minute track which is now different to the dial above with only thin lines marking the minutes. Just recently one sold at Phillipswatches in HK in June 2021.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Another very rare, in my view beautiful and usual Datejust is this 6304 steel example showed by a well known dealer Brevetwatches.
It is similar to a watch I have shown above, the 6305 explorer dial showed at Christies.
(Credit: Brevetwatches).
Diamond dials of Ref 6305
We have talked about diamond dials of the 6105 that have attracted alot of attention and fetched record setting prices. However the diamond dials of the 6305 are no less important. I have identified three watches that have sold at auction.
- Rolex 6305-1 black dial 6 Diamond Dial (Prince of Tunis Bey)
- Rolex 6305 black dial 5 Diamond Dial Serial Nr 948’395
- Rolex 6305 black dial 6 Diamond Dial Serial Nr 111508
A brief comment on them:
- The most important due to the provenance is undoubtedly the Prince of Tunis Bey watch. He was the last monarch and prince of Tunisia (1893-1969). What is interesting about this watch is the bezel which is not finely fluted anymore but rather more broadly fluted. We can say that Rolex made the transition from finely fluted to more broadly fluted with the Ref 6305-1. It sold for CHF 99’000 when it was sold at Sothebys in 2010.
(Credit: Sothebys).
(The last prince of Tunisia Husain Bey above; and his beautiful daughter below).
(Credit: Getty images).
2. The next diamond dial is no less interesting. A dial with 5 diamonds layout retailed by Jost with the original Rolex paperwork. It sold for an incredible CHF 185’000 back in 2015, against a high estimate of CHF 60’000.
One collector clearly knew what he was doing and snapped up a trophy Rolex watch. It seems that the bezel is more finely fluted again (like Ref 6105) but it could be the angle of the picture too.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Let’s look at the Rolex date just dial more closely. An unusual dial layout with line type minute indicators nd lume on the dial. Notice the more modern crown Logo versus the watch above.
3. The last diamond dial is a 6-diamond layout and we revert back to a bezel that is more broadly fluted that is usually associated with the 6305 (1). This example is in pink gold and has a similar dial layout as the Prince Bey version (the first watch above).
What I don’t quite understand is why the price was relatively low for this watch when it was sold (not to mention the low estimate of CHF 10-15’000).
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
What is interesting to note here is that two types of bezels are visible among the three diamond dials. The first and last seems to be more broad and we can define them as 6305-1 watches. The middle version is more finely fluted and is probably a 6305.
White Gold & Platinum diamonds 6305 /4
Although I prefer gold and pink gold Datejust, I cannot write about Datejust without including very rare white metal versions with diamonds and briefly mentioning them.
We start with a platinum 6304 smooth bezel version found in the Goldberger book / App. It was made in 1955. As far as I know only one piece is known. Serial Nr 93910.
(Credit: John Goldberger Page 166).
The other rare Datejust is in white gold ref 6305-1 in white gold with a super rare 3 diamond dial layout. Serial Nr is 79759.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
The next white gold watch is with a black dial, and 8 diamonds. It was part of the famous Mondani collection that sold at Antiquorum back in 2006. I have not seen a similar dial layout and assume it is a unique piece. Serial Nr 79761.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Both white gold and platinum datejust with diamond dials are extremely rare and also belong to the pinnacle of Datejust collecting.
The 6305-2 / The unusual beast
I have to include one other watch in the 6305 model range – the 6305/2.
Collectors can differentiate this ref mainly by the bezel which is different than the 6305, not coin edge milled but rather now with ‘steps’. One of the rarest Datejust by itself, this example below is further differentiated by the red depth rating.
This watch is incredibly rare in the world of Datejust.
(Credit: GM).
6609 Datejust
Sometime in 1954 Rolex introduced a rather bizarre watch: A datejust with rotating bezel. It became known as the ‘thunderbird‘.
The thunderbird datejust derives its origins from the Turn-o-graph Rolex which was introduced in 1953 as the first tool watch with a rotating bezel. One year later Rolex introduced the datejust 6309 and dropped the name turn-o-graph. The thunderbird association arose due to Rolex partnering with the US Air Force training corps that were issued such watches. Ever the clever marketers, Rolex capitalized on this in their marketing.
(Credit: Gray & Sons).
The 6309 is a bit of an odd watch that I thought was worth sharing briefly as it is important. Even though some find it aesthetically confusing (some collectors view it as a marriage between a submariner and Datejust) the 6309 is highly sought after by collectors. Especially when the watch is in pink gold and black dial like the one below (there were a variety of dials available like white/cream).
One of the finest 6309 I have seen is this pink gold version with black dial. The dial below in full splendour.
This watch in such good condition you can see the Modele Depose (top) and registered design (bottom) still engraved on the caseback just when it left the Rolex factory almost 70 years ago.
The thunderbird bezel giving the Datejust an unusual look. Pink gold and black dial the best combination in my opinion (and probably the rarest). Serial Nr 989 xxx.
Thunderbirds were also available with a white dial. Below a white dial with pink gold that sold at Phillips in 2020.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
The last model we show is no less interesting. If you ordered or bought a steel 6609 you received it with a white gold turning bezel. Interesting combination! Obviously sold way above the estimate which was too low to begin with in my opinion.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
We move on to the 6605 & 6604
Rolex introduced the 6605 in 1956-59. There are two big important changes with the 6605:
- First, the main difference lies in the new calibre used by Rolex with the Calibre 1065.
- The second change is super important: It lies in the different wording that can be found on the dials: Superlative Chronometer instead of what was seen previously Officially Certified Chronometer seen in previous Datejust models.
The case size however remains the same at 36mm Also notice the fluted bezel that is not finely milled as early date just models but a continuation from the 6305-1. A nice pink gold version with arrow hour markers (some collectors call it spade dial) can be seen below. Serial Nr 309’087.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
The new upgraded movement is what differentiates the 6605 from the 6305. Calibre 1065. This movement is very similar to the 1030 found in Submariner 6636-1; both have a so-called butterfly rotor.
(Credit: Maurice Deangelis).
One of the most unusual and striking 6605 is this special version. It might seem like a beautiful black arrow dial (rare in itself).
(Credit: tenggang).
But taking a closer look at the dial reveals much more!
It is one of the few Datejust I am aware of with Superlative chronometer by official test that is written on the dial. An incredible example by one of the great Datejust collectors on social media. Below is Serial Nr 16787x. These were test dials that Rolex made in batches and further research reveals that others dials were made only a few case numbers apart.
A Sothebys example sold example carrying Serial Nr 16789x (only 16 numbers apart) and Antiquorum selling one in 2020 with Serial Nr just 1 case before the Sothebys example. For me it is clear these test dials were made in batches.
In my opinion these were test dials before all dials were changed to Superlative chronometer from the earlier Officially certified Chronometer found in 6305 etc.
(Credit: tenggang).
Moving on: Rolex also made some great honeycomb dials for Datejust, many of them in steel models (see wrist shots section in the end) but very rarely even in white gold models. Below a 6605 in white gold with honeycomb dial.
They tend to fetch relatively high prices when they do come up for auction. Serial Nr 449 ‘841.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Just like all the references before, Rolex also made a smooth bezel version, the 6604. One of the rarest smooth bezel versions 6604 I would like to share is this Amtlich Geprüft or officially certified in English (thank you Wulf of Rare & Fine watches for pointing this watch out to me).
Notice also the different Rolex font in the writing which was quite common for later Datejust 6604/5 series. This beautiful example comes from the stock of Brevetwatches. The Rolex crown is also slightly different in size and appearance.
(Datejust 6604 Amtlich Geprüft from Brevet Watches).
Another view of this beautiful Datejust with strong case.
A brief comment on hard stone dials Datejust 1601.
Although my focus on Datejust is from the 1940’s – 1960’s as this is most beautiful period, I would have a hard time to leave out the stone dials of Datejust.
(Various stone dials Datejust: Credit: plug_vtg).
The stone dials Datejust were introduced in the 1970’s with ref 1601.
Rolex has proven to be masters at working with not only precious stone (like Rainbow Daytona etc) but also delicate and rare stone dials. These include Tiger Eye, Malachite, Onyx, and Lapis Lazuli (my personal favourite see below). Collectors seem to value white gold Datejust with rare stone dials the most (probably due to the rarity). But another observation has been the following: Almost any special Datejust with stone dial sells for way above the high estimate. They are extremely collectable right now.
Let’s look at some examples:
First, a nice pink gold example from circa 1972 that was delivered to the Oman with a Khanjar dial. It is no surprise that many watches were delivered to the Middle East as the market was very fond of stone dials. It obviously sold above the high estimate and sold for CHF 100’000. Serial Nr 3’3xx’xxx.
(Credit: Christies).
One of my favourite stones is Lapis Lazuli for its vibrant blue color.
The first series dials are apparently signed ‘T Swiss T’ with later dials signed just ‘Swiss’. The watch below is a first series dial even with the T Swiss T signature.
(Credit: Rolexceptional).
Another Lapis dial with white gold case as below, this time signed just Swiss. Serial Nr 4’007’xxx.
(Credit: Mr. Patek).
If you have never heard of Agate hard stone, now you have. Agate is a mix of quartz and other components. Here one sold by Phillips in 2016 for above the high estimate.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Black Onyx is also very nice especially with a white gold case. This one sold by Phillips in 2019 in HK. Serial Nr 3’822`xxx. According to a collector only 3 are known with this dial.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Coming with all the paperwork too.
(Credit: Phillipswatches).
Another Onyx the property of a private collector below.
(Credit: Rolexceptional).
What about beautiful Malachite? Also, a very striking color!
(Credit: Mentawatches).
The last super rare color is what is called Jasper. It was recently sold by Monaco Legend Group for an incredible €174’000. I personally prefer other colors but it is supposedly due to the extreme rarity that it achieved this strong price. Serial Nr 3’8xx’xxx.
(Credit: Monaco Legend Group).
It came with the official Rolex paperwork too which of course is valuable if you own something that is only thought to be made in a handful of pieces.
(Credit: Monaco Legend Group).
Closing comments
What has been clear from writing this report is that the Datejust is one of the most diverse model lines from Rolex.
There are so many details to understand and so many references that this report only covers maybe 10% of what the datejust is really all about. A report alone on the diamond dials could be written. Not to mention the stone dials. There is indeed a Datejust model for everyones taste out there; I can’t recall any other Rolex model line that as diverse as the Datejust.
I tried to show this in my report and covered the most important early models.
(A Rolex Datejust calendar made by John Goldberger in 2014).
As I said in my opening remarks, this is not a comprehensive guide to all the Rolex Datejust; rather a Le Monde Edmond birds eye view what is beautiful and rare (and expensive) in the Datejust world.
(A 6105 diamond dial, can be considered one of Rolex all time great trophy watches).
Also, it became clear from writing this report just how strong Italy is in the watch collecting world. Some of the most beautiful Datejust collections sit in Italy and it is also thanks to the Italian collectors (especially GT and MD and GM) that I was able to write this report. They shared so much knowledge with me and for that I am grateful. I also want to thank the Japanese collector Shuichi for his knowledge and exceptional Datejust collection.
It is indeed the first time I write about a model line without owning a watch. I therefore would like to think I was completely unbiased and really wrote about what I would want to own. On that note what I can share with you is the following: I have a one goal in 2022 and beyond – that is to find the perfect Datejust. This report has helped not only to learn but also to discover what is out there and what I like.
For me it is clear: The Datejust is among the most beautiful and pure watches Rolex ever made. The period 45-60 Datejust has everything I love in a watch line: History, beauty, rarity and style.
Not a surprise therefore that it is an Icon today.
NB: Allow me to share some wrist shots of the models I have written about above:
We start with a diamond dial Ref 6305 with Serial Number 118′ xxx. Less than a handful of these are known with white gold case. Owned by an Italian collector.
(Credit: GT).
Staying with white metal I show a very rare platinum 6304 with smooth Bezel.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
Another dream watch is this 6104. Extremely rare and fine and I congratulate this astute collector. A Le Monde Edmond kind of Datejust in terms of rarity and beauty.
(Credit: Mario Dissette).
A super rare left-hand version of the Ref 6105 in pink gold.
(Credit: GT).
A beautiful Ref 6305 seen with A Shear a while back. The bracelet given this watch the perfect look. I love the gilt dial.
A dream datejust!
(Credit: A Shear).
A 6305 is also nice with white honeycomb – especially when it has patina.
(Credit: Alberto).
Staying with 6305 but adding a 2 (6305-2) this hyper rare depth dial by GM. Notice the unusual bezel.
(Credit: GM).
Another great datejust on the wrist of another Alberto (Albyluxury). The 6105 with diamonds so called Baby Bao Dai.
(Credit: Albyluxury).
Just because the watch is so gorgeous, same watch as above but below now with a gold special Rolex bracelet.
(Credit: Albyluxury).
Staying with the 6105, we have Mr. Tomohiro from Japan and his lovely watch.
(Credit: Tomohiro_tomoe).
Going on to the smooth bezel version 6104 with one of my favourite signatures. Joyeria Riviera.
(Credit: GT).
Another dream Joyeria Riviera signed dial by my friend watcharts, in pink gold.
A splendid Serpico Y Laino signed Datejust 6305 from Monaco Legend Group in pink gold.
Staying with 6305 I show a black dial with large brick hour index. Notice the beautiful tile bracelet.
(Credit: GT).
A very rare 6309 in pink gold with black dial. Owned of course by the Italian collector who owns a few watches mentioned in this report.
(Credit: GT).
Although I didn’t cover steel Datejust models, below a beautiful Datejust 6605 with honeycomb dial. Notice the wider bezel fluting which makes this model a 6305-1.
(Credit: timeist_insta).
6605 also looks nice with spade, black dial.
(Credit: Drjuanola/ Mario)
The unique Jasper dial with white gold case.
(Credit: Rolexceptional).
We end with a very rare stone dial Datejust: A 1601 with Obsidian dial with Khajar Emblem. Never heard of Obsidian? Neither have I. Owned by the King of watches, my friend John Goldberger.
