When important changes in history took place - Rolex was there to witness the moment and measure or improve it with their watches

Le Monde Edmond

August 1, 2018

Insight Five reasons why I love vintage Rolex: Reason Nr 1

Fine WatchesCollector's Insight

Let’s be perfectly honest with one another. I am addicted to vintage Rolex. 

A Greek girl recently pointed out to me on my private Instagram account that ‘I am too refined and too cool to be only interested in Rolex watches’. I agree with her perhaps on the first part but definitely not on the second part. Because let’s face it. There is nothing cooler than a nice vintage Rolex.

Sure – there are other and perhaps ‘better’ watch brands out there. 

My dream is to own a nice enamel dial world time from Patek from the 1950s. Or a nice 3448 Patek in white gold with small calendar ring. I also would love to own that elusive Audemars 5516 that escaped me back in 2015, too slow and naive to recognise its importance. Yes, I want to own that Audemars just because it offers the world’s first leap year indication on the dial – in such a sexy layout. I also love some old Jaeger reverso from the 1930s.*

But the brand that I will always be most addicted too remains vintage Rolex. Foolish? Perhaps. But I have good reason for it. Here is are my five reasons why I am completely obsessed with collecting vintage Rolex watches. 

(For Part II of this series see here).


Part 1: Rolex is full of history and that is alluring.

It is true. I used to feel sorry for men who wore Rolex watches.

I regarded them as uneducated, not sophisticated and just lacking any taste and class. They definitely were not men who make history – like Rolex liked to claim in their advertising.

Until I understood that Rolex, the company, has a tremendous history behind it. That is why I am so drawn to vintage Rolex. Buying and wearing a vintage Rolex allows you to take part in a small (or big) way of that history.

For example, consider the following achievements that Rolex can rightfully claim. Rolex was the first company in the world to make a waterproof watch. Ever wondered where the term oyster comes from? Rolex made the first waterproof watch, termed Oyster in 1926.

image4

(Credit: Rolex Only story Mondani publishing p9).

If that was not impressive enough Rolex then invented the first automatic winding movement with perpetual rotor that allows for a watch to be wound with motion (invented in 1931). This invention allows us still today to wind and power our watches just by simply wearing – I can think of no function more useful. Today all brands create automatic movements with winding rotor –  but Rolex was the first.

image2

(Credit: Rolex Only story Mondani publishing p43).

Another milestone that for sure changed the watch industry forever, was the introduction of the first diving watch. Again Rolex can claim to be the first. Rolex  made the first real diving watch together with Blancpain in 1953/54 – named the Submariner that could guarantee water resistance to 100m. For an in-depth report on the 6204 the world ‘s first diving watch – see our report here.

6204 rolex

(Picture above: the worlds first diving watch, the 6204 Submariner that came out in 1954).

While Rolex was never known for making complicated watches – they were the first company to come out with a self-winding watch with a date (termed ‘date just’) in 1945 displaying a window for the date.

And to top things off Rolex also invented the enlarged cyclop sense to see the date in larger view (see below).

image1

(Credit: Rolex Only story Mondani publishing p184).

Another invention followed when Rolex released the ‘Day – Date’ which displayed month, day and date in separate windows for the first time.

Let me recap that for you – so you just understand how important Rolex played in time-keeping history. The first waterproof watch, the first self winding watch with perpetual rotor. The first diving watch, the first watch with a date window and also the first day-date with a three window display.

That is a lot of firsts for one single company.

It is not that Rolex was just the first in many areas and a pioneer – but Rolex was a partner also in important moments in history.

They were there when it counted:

First woman to swim across the English channel? A lady called Mercedes Gleitze and Rolex was there to witness it and indeed Mercedes was even wearing a Rolex. 

image3

(Credit: Rolex Only story Mondani publishing p13).

First person to climb Mount Everest? Hillary & co were there and used an Explorer from Rolex which Rolex would take complete advantage of, and market it, as the Explorer only a few months later (for an in depth report on the 6350 Explorer see our report here).

1953-Rolex-Everest-ad-with-Sir-Edmu

The deepest dive ever made at Trieste with Captain Don Walsh?

Rolex was there to witness it live and supplied that team with Rolex watches (including the deep sea special – watch below with extra super-dome plexi).

Rolex-DEEP-SEA-Special-Prototype-762x1024-1

(Credit: Beyer Museum).

When the first transatlantic flights were flown by PANAM – Rolex supplied their pilots with first dual time zone watches (called GMT Master 6542 – initially with Bakelite Bezel insert).

I think your slowly getting the message.

Rolex had a good habit of being at the right place at the right time and developing the right tool watches that served a good purpose.

6542_niceexample-768x1024

(Credit: Khalid Al Mansoor).

When important changes in history took place – Rolex was there to witness the moment and measure or improve it with their watches. This is a fundamental reason why I am so attracted to this company.

Ofcourse it helps that their vintage watches were also beautiful and developed a nice patina with time. Not to mention that vintage Rolex watches hold their value and most probably even gain with time – provided you do your homework and buy good quality examples. 

For most people still today, Rolex is the company that makes a large quantity of durable, reliable Sports watches that are very recognizable all over the world.

However for a select group of connaisseurs and collectors, Rolex is also the company that influenced and shaped watch-making history. 

(For Part II of this series see here).


NB: For those interested in Rolex history I highly suggest to look at my report Vintage Rolex special Beyer museum.

You can also visit the Rolex history section of their homepage here.

Special thanks to Giorgia Mondani and Mondani publishing for help in their pictures from Mondani books.

 

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