The much anticipated Geneva May Auction weekend is drawing closer by the second. As our enthusiasm grows exponentially, the thoughts of a world-wide pandemic and an ongoing war at the border of Europe seem to be fading away in a perfectly inversely proportional way. Are we crazy? I would argue that we aren’t completely insane, there are simply too many beautiful watches, all available to the highest bidder, in the same small city, all to be sold within 72 hours of absolute horological madness.
So, it’s only natural to be distracted from all things external.
As we wonder whether Phillips will be accepting cryptocurrency for their thematic Royal Oak sale (to the great pleasure of the consignors, less so for the compliance department), whether Gerald Genta’s very own Royal Oak to be sold at Sotheby’s will include the original sketch as an NFT (but it’s the original sketch, right?) or just how much above retail will Christie’s 15202PT green dial will go (great job to the boutique manager for carefully selecting their clients), I feel we should all take a deep breath, and just relax a second.
In all of this madness, the euphoria, the craziness, it’s good to remind ourselves that watch collecting, much like Bonsai’s, takes time. And lots of it too. The last year or two has attracted an unprecedented amount of attention, capital and new collectors to the market, reasons for which prices and the whole watch collecting field seem to have gone absolutely insane. From my perspective, many of these new buyers haven’t yet had the time to build the knowledge and sensitivity to truly appreciate great watches; it seems their eyes are more drawn to their overall percentage gains on the chrono24 app they downloaded a few weeks ago than to anything else. These kind of buyers are the ones pumping the modern market to an irrational level, yet as soon as prices start to plateau or even drop (as many of us feel is starting to happen) – many will get burnt or even panic sell as they simply entered a market with expectations of very fast and easy returns. And to me, that cannot be the case with watch collecting.
After having had a solid look through the various catalogues, and a pleasant conversation with various collectors regarding under the radar watches, here is a list of some of the most interesting, under-appreciated and overlooked watches coming up for sale.
Best of all they won’t break the bank and, in terms of collectability, might be a wiser bet than anything modern which is increasingly becoming impossible to get at retail.
Christies
I saw many beautiful watches in the Christies catalogue including a barn-find 6239, an absolutely insane 6269 Daytona, a true grail for gem-set collectors, 2 spectacular gold Newman’s, a whole array of modern Patek’s from the Kairos collection (that seems to me more like stamp collecting than watch collecting), and quite a few more interesting pieces.
Yet there was one watch that to me beats them all: a two tone, Rolex King Midas reference 4915 with the most incredible, diagonally striped white and yellow gold case and bracelet. The watch is unbelievable. When we talk about case finishing, I can almost guarantee that manufacturers today would not be able to so seamlessly make such a perfectly executed case.
Take it in your hand and you will understand how powerful this piece is. The best part? Lot 35 is available at no reserve!
(Picture credit: Christies)
Sothebys
I didn’t see anything particularly crazy exciting in the Physical Sotheby’s sale other than obviously Genta’s Royal Oak.
One particularly cool Rolex almost went by unnoticed but in the end the striking enamel blue shone through: Lot 17 is a super cool Rolex Oyster Royal ref. 6444 with an incredible central light blue enamel dial and eastern Arabic numerals. Super cool and definitely something absolutely unique.
(Picture Credit: Sothebys).
From their online sale instead, I absolutely fell in love with the Audemars Piguet Bamboo in yellow gold and diamond-set bracelet watch from the mid 1980’s. Yes, it’s quartz, but really who cares? You are buying AP’s gem setting savoir-faire and on the wrist, this is worth a more than a million Rolex Hulk’s (to me at least).
Lot 546 is available for 7-9k CHF which to me is an absolute bargain.
(Picture Credit: Sothebys).
Another incredible AP that is not a RO is the UFO style platinum reference.5129 (lot 545 online sale) with such a delicately set diamond bezel and great overall architecture. Humble, understated and most importantly classy as can be.
Only for a true gentleman.
(Picture Credit: Sothebys).
Antiquorum
With a whooping 534 lots, Antiquorum has the most diverse catalogue with really something for everyone. I love how they consistently manage to source horological paraphernalia that geeky watch nerds like us go crazy for, like this Angelus desk clock retailed by Spritzer and gifted to an Italian Admiral (lot 206).
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Lot 196: Patek Philippe Pocket watch Enamel
As many of you know, I am also a big fan of pocket watches and again, the selection does not disappoint.
One that I fell in love with and has an incredible enamelling to it is Lot 196, a gorgeous Patek Philippe pocket from 1890 featuring an ever so delicate bird couple covered in flowers. It makes me feel like travelling to Japan during cherry blossom season with this in my pocket and just take in all the beauty around me.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Taking me back to my early days of watch collecting, is the multi-scale Tissot (lot 47) with an absolutely insane black dial featuring the most unusual tachymeter scale colors: yellow and green on a copper gilted base.
The oversize 38mm pump pusher case is fabulous, and the watch is what vintage chrono dreams are made of. I remember during peak 2016/18 steel chrono mania this watch could have easily fetched around 50k – so today’s estimate of 10-15k CHF leaves much room for the passionate collector.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
Lot 472 in my eyes, is the most interesting watch, horologically speaking, to be sold this weekend.
An Ecole de Geneve steel wristwatch, featuring a large 35mm Borgel screwback case, a very sober Stern made dial and a Patek Philippe 12-120 calibre. The watch is, effectively, a steel Patek Philippe made by what can be considered the beginnings of independent watchmakers. The overall quality and movement finishing is unparalleled, to the extent the calibre has 2 official Geneva seal stamps and comes with the original COSC chronometer certification.
A true museum grade piece.
(Credit: Antiquorum).
The beautiful Patek Calibre 12-120 below.
Phillips
I wanted to avoid talking about Royal Oaks today as I feel every single lot has been covered at least a dozen times.
But for the purpose of this article I thought I’d choose one from the thematic sale that to me is the absolute dream RO. Lot 38 of the sale is the reference 14701BC with Jasper Dial in white gold. Part of only a small batch of 5 stone made dials, it embodies all that is fantastic about the Royal Oak and the white metal/green dial combination is absolute killer.
(Credit: Phillipswatches)
My love for Universal Geneve is no secret, it has been one of the most aesthetically diverse watch manufacturers of the last century and a perfect entry level brand to really learn and grow your sensitivity about watches and collecting.
I was most impressed with the Black dial Aerocompax reference 22414 coming up. At a CHF 8-14k estimate, this is an absolute bargain as the combined rarity and condition factor is impossible. I have no bias on the watch, but I can say after 10 years of studying UGs it seems to be one of the most beautiful and dead-mint examples of black dial radium AeroCompaxes to have appeared on the market.
(Credit: Phillipswatches)
Next is a watch I consider an absolute outlier: wearing this watch in the 1930s was like wearing an Urwerk or a crazy Mb&F in ancient times.
Such an audacious design: lot 143 the AP Jumphour in white and pink gold is a phenomenal watch for so many reasons. Aesthetically, it challenges all norms known at the time (with the exception of the Cartier Tank à guichet), the movement is an extremely well made Niton base calibre and the watch being sold in 1929 in New York in full recession makes it an unbelievable power move by a most interesting individual who definitely thought with a very independent mindset.
And the rarity of the AP Jump Hours cannot be stressed enough.
(Credit: Phillipswatches)
Last but not least we have a gorgeous VC.
Here is something for the most discerning collector: a gorgeous 18k automatic Vacheron with the most flavorful of case patinas and a stunning ‘stelline’ dial. Definitely one to set you away from the masses and so much value at the CHF 5-8k estimate. I believe many Vacheron’s to still be extremely under the radar and I must say, from triple calendars to 6782 thunderbirds, Phillips has an amazing selection of vintage Vacheron that should not be overlooked.
(Credit: Phillipswatches)
Overall this will be an incredibly energy packed weekend.
We will see fierce bidding and even a little herd mentality market following but as they say, when everybody is looking in one direction, that is when the best deals often can be made. As always, one thing is certain: only time will tell.
See you all this weekend!
