I have said it many times before. There are many advantages going to a watch auctions in person. 

You get to see so much more than the watches that are for sale. You get to meet new collectors, go to exhibitions, talk to insiders and get a feel for the market. See what is going on in the auction room. Going to auctions also allows you to be seen and trusted. Once your a known face – you get to see incredible things. For the first time – I got to see some special watches besides those for sale at auction. Before I show you some – let me share with you some trends that I noticed this time around:

• The Italians remain an incredible force in vintage watches: Whether you like them or not (I happen to love them) the Italians are extremely present in all aspects of vintage watches. Of course I noticed the Italians before, but for some reason this auction season – they were present more than normal. Most of the dealers in the auction room were Italians, and the biggest of them all is also Italian. They were very active buying watches this season (something I wrote about already last November) – in fact some of the top Rolex lots went to dealers. It was not only the dealers who were active. Italian collectors were present too and buying (something I did not notice before). I remember when I interviewed John Goldberger a while ago and asked him why Italians are still such a strong force he replied: the biggest dealers are in Italy, big collectors are in Italy and so you have a good source of knowledge that the Italian community has built up over time. Leading scholars, publishers, many are based in Italy. Also a new generation of collectors are Italian, like Mr. A, and he will insure that the knowledge and sophistication will remain in Italy for a long time to come. 
• Dealers can show up with superb stuff: This is something I really have not noticed before. I was always concentrated on the auctions and it even annoyed me when dealers would pass around watches during the auction for clients to look at. But I have to admit sometimes the watches dealers have, are miles better than what is offered at auction. See pictures below to understand what I am talking about.
• Market is becoming smarter and more rational: There is no doubt, collectors are doing their homework (I mentioned this in my last update already). They are coming out with tools like Geiger counters, UV light torches, special loupes. It is almost become a scientific approach to looking at watches. Collectors are asking that watches be opened, movements are being looked at and experts in case makers or enamel painters – are being sought for advice. I was quite impressed by the amount of homework, collectors are doing. It was almost like scientific forensic research. I sometimes wonder where the romance is of buying a watch just because it speaks to your heart? I guess rising values almost force collectors to be more scientific in their approach not to be caught out.
• Reading condition reports is essential: Watching a recent video by a man who I admire in the watch world (William Massena) – made me order every single condition report I could get my hands on. Because at the end of the day auction catalogues are marketing documents by auction houses and all the relevant information for the buyer is contained in the condition reports – which you don’t get unless you ask for them. Not sure if a watch has been cleaned or relumed or slightly polished. This information is stated often in the condition reports.
• Trophy watches bring in big money: I wrote about this too last November. You can have the biggest crises and it will still remain the same. You bring to the market the best of something and you will get huge results. 
• Unusual watches with interesting design did well: If the watch had special lugs, had an interesting design or a rare bracelet – it usually beat the high estimate. I noticed this time and time again this season. It seems collectors want something different, something unique and not just the normal usual stuff. Collectors want to differentiate themselves but so do dealers with their stock. The star dial Galaxy was a good example of this, but also this beautiful oversized Gübelin chronograph in white gold–  which fetched an outstanding CHF 137’000 -nearly 7x the low estimate and more than 3x the high estimate. Bought by a well known and very shrewd Swiss collector. The oversize Universal Split is another example of just a watch that is cool and different.
• Some brands showed weakness – others strength: Some Patek time only watches and complications could have fetched stronger results. One collector told me that maybe this had to with the direction the company is going under the new CEO. That the modern is having an effect on the vintage. I am not sure I agree with this. I think that a shift is taking place to more modern looking and sporty watches that can be worn everyday. While vintage Patek is a niche area today already, I think it will become even more so in the future. One brand that did well was Audemars but then again – here we have a supply demand equation that helps. Only 500 complicated watches left Audemars from 1920 – 1975. They simply are rare, fine and high quality watches and when they appear on the market- collectors snap them up.
• Asians were active buyers: I mentioned this in my last November report and saw it again. I sold three watches and two of them went to Asia and an Asian was an under bidder on the third watch that ultimately found a home somewhere else. Some big trophy Rolex lots went to Asia (6238 Predaytona Gold and 6062 steel, Rolex Galaxy black dial with stars). They have taste, are learning incredibly fast and have the financial fire power to buy the best.

These were my observations.

Now allow me to show you some cool watches that were for sale with unsual designs – some that went for a bargain. I will also show you some watches that dealers surprise me with and watches that are owned by private collectors that were a pleasure to see.

(In terms of buying and selling disclosure: I was a net seller this auction, selling 3 watches and buying one. I bought a fun toy, an Amida digitrend watch from the 1970s. Thank you Mr. A and Roy Davidoff for organising this superb and most original watch for me).

For Part I of my Geneva auction report – see post here.

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We start with a brand that is capturing my heart more and more for its timeless, playful and just elegant designs. Cartier.

The watch below fascinated me indeed. A cool dual time watch (GMT of Cartier if you like) with two separate crowns for setting the time of each ‘time display‘ on the same watch. I should have. And could have – and next time I will pay more attention to a female collector with superb taste who advised me on this lot.

A picture in black and white. It sold for an extremely reasonable CHF 21’500 – right in the middle of the estimate. Try finding another one – it will be difficult.

Another Cartier that was gorgeous was this large Cintree in gold. It was a beautiful watch. 

It had a real presence on the wrist. Collectors paid up for this watch and it went slightly over its high estimate at CHF 28’500 (versus high estimate of CHF 25’000).

Cartier is a brand I will become more familiar with in the future. It draws me in like a magnet.

Another brand I am trying to understand better is Universal.

Here a wonderful Universal split seconds – showing the movement – that sold for a strong amount of CHF 100’000 – against an estimate of CHF 45- 65’000.

Talking about opening watches – we move on to another brand – Patek.

Ever seen the movement of a 3417 Amagnetic? Yes it is a rare tool watch from Patek with the playful script on the dial, but it was a serious watch for Scientists.

Look at the shield cover (grey bottom left part) to protect this watch from magnetism. It is made of soft iron and can protect a movement from serious magnetic influences (up to 450 oersteds or ampere per meter – source Mstanga). 

Remember when I said a new force of Italian collectors will ensure Italy’s dominance for some time to come? Well Mr. A had someone open this watch to show me the soft Iron dust cover. Yeah, I learn everyday from him.

The Amagnetic or Ref 3417 continues to do well from Patek and sold for a solid CHF 60’000 – double its high estimate of CHF 30’000.

Another superb Patek was this 3448 in White gold – an extremely rare bird. This will be sold in HK by Phillips.

What I love about this watch is that it had this elegance and sportiness combined due to the dial having luminous hands and luminous hour markers – giving the watch a completely different look. The 3448 is a timeless design and Icon and I will be writing about this special watch for sale in HK in my next post. The watch on the left? Also not too shabby a watch (expected to fetch over $1m in HK) – a 530 in steel. Lets take a closer look at the wonderful case.

I have to say this 3448 in white gold is my taste 100% and suits me quite well, despite its rather large size of 36mm.

We move on to a beautiful pocket watch , a world time with Enamel dial. Yes it has oxidised heavily on the far right of the dial but it still was a dream. Bought by an Italian collector (who apparently has the biggest world time collection known).

What I liked about the Patek world time was the message and engraving on the back: Given to an executive at Banco Credito in 1962. No wonder an Italian bought this.

Pocket watches remain under-loved and undervalued.

To collect world time pocket watches might be an interesting idea. I think I have to revisit my idea of only owning 17-20 watches.

Let me show you some watches that were not for sale but superb examples.

Like this superb Rolex (I know I promised not to show a Rolex but please excuse me) Ref 8171 Padelone in Pink Gold. An Asian dealer had brought it along and its condition was better than the one sold at auction.

Judge for yourself. Perfectly aged two tone dial.

I simply had to try it on. A marvellous piece!

I promise I show the last Rolex in this report.

While having lunch I got to try on this dream day-date in Platinum with Hindi /Arabic numerals and baguette diamond bezel. This is my taste indeed and how any proper modern day-date should look like. I personally think a day-date without diamonds is like GMT without Bakelite. They are also nice but not dream watches.

This watch below is the end game in modern day – date collecting. The owner knows what he is doing!

Allow me to show you another watch that you don’t see everyday.

A vintage Audemars that usually sits in the museum and was worn by a very funny and kind Audemars connoisseur, MF.

Now if your someone who is known in the watch world – you can personalise your own Laurent Ferrier watch. 

As a result a bunch of high profile watch collectors now have a similar type watch as they came up with this design together. Seen on an old fox of the watch business. Yes that is a sector dial with the hands, dial and even case and crown carefully chosen by the owner. I remember seeing a similar watch when I went to Phillips watches a few months ago.

However it was once again the Italians that managed to show me the most outstanding and rare watch of the entire auction that was not for sale.

In fact he showed me two watches, one of which I will show you at a later date when I can take better pictures. For now I leave you with this hyper rare Patek 2438 with screw back case, black dial signed by Hölscher. This is my taste in Patek collecting. Sporty but elegant. Sophisticated and understated. 

I will be dreaming of this watch for a very long time (Phillips please take note and find another example).

Lastly coming to Geneva allows one to attend special exhibitions that are organised around the auction sales.

My sincere congratulations to the Davidoff Brothers who put on an exceptional event, watches with nicknames. Here perhaps my favourite window (the Killy window) with a rare early Killy with special hands (left watch). These two Brothers thought of everything, from the awesome drawings for all the nicknames (which was a delight) to a handwritten note for every single guest and a great candle as a gift. It is the small things in life that make a difference and both Sacha and Roy understand this.

A superb and memorable event, which proved to me once again – there is so much to learn about watches.

At the Davidoff event, I took advantage of buying the newest copy of Moonwatch only and had my copy signed by none other than Anthony & Gregoire.

I immediately noticed a superb gold bracelet – I had to have a closer look.

This is what Anthony choses to wear. A superb Omega Speedmaster in gold – divine I must admit!

This Geneva auction event was special – as I experienced it slightly different than before.

I made an effort to go to every exhibition, look at many dealers watches, embrace watches that I would not look at before (thank you Mr. A) and was invited to a special lunch by very generous Audemars. It was time to go back to Zurich, my home and I look forward to seeing Geneva in November again.