In the vintage watch world there are two important yearly auctions in Geneva: November & May.

For lovers of vintage Rolex watches the upcoming May watch auction is nothing short of spectacular. There is simply every kind of Rolex available that a collector could want.

From tropical dials, to underline dials, to double swiss signed Daytona’s. There is even a submariner double swiss dial (which we until now did not even know existed).

Christies alone is offering over 174 Rolex’s in their sale. We went through all the catalogues and have read ALL the condition reports and spoken to the top watch experts at both Sothebys and Christies. While there are probably around 30 watches that are interesting, in excellent condition and rare – we have narrowed the watches down to our top 5 favorites.

Please be advised that I have not yet seen the watches so we are relying on the photographs and information (by way of condition reports and telephone conversation) received from the auction houses.

Lot 420 Christies: Our first choice is a Rolex 5512 Submariner from 1962.

The reason we have chosen this watch is based on two main arguments. Firstly everyone is complaining that vintage Rolex has become unaffordable and overhyped. While this is true for the most part, collectors if they do their homework can still find relative bargains.

This watch below is still a bargain for what you get. Secondly this watch is highly interesting because you get the essence of what Rolex collecting is about in one package with this watch. Chapter ring dial, gloss dial, gilt dial, pointed crown guards and underline dial- could a Rolex collector ever ask for more? To top it all off you also get a 4Line dial with the CSCO (chronometre rating). Aside from square crown guards and explorer dials, this 5512 is one of the most seldom vintage Rolex watches that has come to the market. 

Lot 90 Christies: A big crown Rolex 6538 Submariner from 1958.

There are perhaps 10 Rolex watches that are considered the holy grail for collectors. A must have for any serious Rolex collection. A big crown Submariner is certainly one of them. While there are several big crown references like the 6200, 5510, the 6538 stands out because it is the watch most closely associated with the James Bond Franchise (even though no-one can prove that Sean Connery was indeed wearing the ref 6538 instead of the 5510).

This example at Christies stands out for the way the dial has aged and turned into a light tobacco brown. This is what collectors refer to as ‘tropical’. The lettering below submariner as well as depth rating remains very well intact. The dial aside from some ‘brushing’ remains very well intact. Brushing occurs when the hands of the watch rub slightly against the dial cause ‘little scratch marks’. This is quite common among early submariner models.

Lot 168 Christies: Another watch that belongs in any serious Rolex collection is the 6542, a first generation GMT Master. While all references of the 6542 are considered collectible, it is the early references, those with bakelite bezels that are the most appealing. Yes they are delicate (which is also why Rolex decided to replace them later) but they are simply beautiful too. Especially when they are faded like the example below. Combine that with a beautifully aged Tropical dial and you have a very nice 6542.

Lot 164 Christies: In the world of Daytona, most consider the Paul Newman version to be the most collectible.

But not all Paul Newman Daytona’s are created equal.

While the many collectors are attracted to the Oyster cases like the Panda Dial which is ref 6263, the most rare Paul Newman Daytona is a ‘non-oyster case’. There are two very rare Paul Newman Daytona. Ref 6262 which comes with a steel bezel and ref 6264 which comes with the later black plastic bezel. The more attractive is clearly the ref 6264 which is also the watch pictured below. The 6264 benefits from its condition which is almost new even after 50 years of age.

Lot 341 Sotheby’s: One of the star lots is also the Rolex being offered at the May auctions by Sotheby’s this year.

While there are rarer Paul Newman Daytona watches than the ‘Panda Dial’ version being offered by Sotheby’s- few come in better condition and as complete as the one Sothebys is offering. The watch comes from the original owners family and is complete with guarantee (stamped by Bucherer Lausanne in 1974), outer box, box and Rolex papers. Although this watch was made in 1972 it took two years before it was sold in 1974 (not usual as Newman Daytona’s when introduced were not popular at all). However it is the condition of the case and dial that really makes this Panda Dial, the king of all Panda’s.

According to the expert at Sotheby’s, there has not been a better Daytona Panda that has passed through his hands within the last 20 years. 

by Edmond Saran