I am always amazed how some vintage watches are completely ignored by the market.
For all the collectors who complain that watches have gotten too expensive – maybe they should focus less on vintage Rolex and Patek and look at some other brands.
This July in Monte Carlo, Boule held their yearly summer auction of watches.
I have been following Boule for a while now and it is, in my view, a great place to go vintage watch hunting if your open to finding niche brands like, Grana, Bovet, Universal and Movado etc. For example, they were selling this triple calendar from Movado that had a low estimate of €400.
(Above, the wonderful two tone Breguet numeral Movado that was for sale at Boule and looked much better in real than in the catalogue).
Much like Longines, Movado used to make high quality watches with their own movements in the 1940s. Movado chronographs are today sought after by collectors for the nice movements that were signed (like M90) together with ‘the trademark squiggly hands‘* to mark the sub-dials.
(Credit: Cosimo:_Online).
If your confused by the picture above, and the case reminds you of another watch- you are on the right track.
That is because one of the great case-makers Francois Borgel (FB) made cases for Movado (by then under ownership of Taubert & Fils) as with the watch above. Borgel also was the case-maker for the Patek Philippe 1463 Tasti Tondi – one of the most sought after chronographs by Patek.
My point is that Movado was a high quality watch company back in the 1940s and their watches remain very collectable from that period today.
Back to the Movado triple calendar.
What attracted me to the watch were several things. First the unusual and extremely beautiful fancy lugs. Secondly the incredible two tone dial. Third the Breguet numerals. Yes, the watch was worn and the dial was heavily spotted. However this watch was all original and carried a beautiful two-tone dial.
Hard to believe but this watch hammered at €400 (so all in the buyer paid just €500). For a Movado with fancy lugs, a two tone dial (which was honest and original). Original hands and calendar hand. And Breguet numerals. And a movement that is highly likely signed Movado (not confirmed in the lot notes) – and a case likely signed Movado too.
Now I am fully aware that the watch was in heavily used condition and many collectors don’t want a watch with so much spotting on the dial. But €500 for a 1940s Movado with wonderful fancy lugs and two tone dial (with Breguet numerals), this strikes me as a pretty good deal if your a vintage watch collector and not looking to spend a fortune.
This Movado is an excellent example that you don’t need to have deep pockets to collect vintage watches. Just a good eye and a bit of luck that collectors are sleeping during the summer.
The next time a collector tells me there is no value in vintage watches – I say there is plenty. You just got to look for it.
*(Picture credit: Hodinkee).
