Yes, your reading this correctly. I have chosen a 3800 Gold Nautilus as my next PAK watch. Many collectors might have an issue with my choice.
After all the first gold Nautilus was not the reference 3800/1, but rather 3700/1 model designed in the 1970s by Gerald Genta (the rumours are in a restaurant within 15min – inspiration was the Porthole in a ship ). However, before you think I have lost it, allow me to explain my choice in more detail.
You will see it might make sense, at least it does work for me, especially on a personal level.
The first gold Nautilus came out along with the steel version in the 1970s and was the reference 3700/1. It was large and majestic with a 42mm case and no seconds hand and carried a cal 28-255c.
It was the same size case as the steel version 3700, and was applauded by collectors for its pure design. Still today the 3700 Nautilus is the ultimate version to own, no seconds on the dial and large case makes for a sporty and timeless icon.
But for many collectors the 42mm case was too big, so in the 1980s Patek responded with a smaller case and introduced a central seconds calibre model called 3800/1, (the / 1 standing for gold).
The 3800 was a much smaller watch at 37m. How much smaller? A crazy 5mm smaller than the previous 3700! It now had a central seconds calibre called the 335 SC (SC for seconds central in French). The case design was slightly different too, with the right part of the case where the crown sets in – slightly more curved in style. Additionally, the hands and date calendar all differed with the 3800 model.
The first watches in the 1980s and 1990s carried the Aprior sigma signs between the Swiss signature (an indication that the hands and indexes were made of gold). In the late 1990’s the Aprior sigma sign would disappear and the watch would carry a Swiss only signature. Another difference between the early 3800/1 and later ones are the date disk. Early models seem to be in black with white numbers (which I prefer personally) while later models are white (with black numbers).
The model 3800 would discontinue in 2006.
Why is this a PAK watch?
Well the model I have chosen is special in a few ways.
First it is a gold model 3800/1 and certainly rarer than the steel version. Second it carries a Gübelin signature which is extremely rare for a 3800 (only 2 are known publicly to have this signature). Third this watch is from 1987 so a relatively early version of the 3800/1 (first introduced in 1981). Even though the model 3800 was made over a nearly 25 years, there are hardly any 3800/1 gold models with the retailer signature that have been known publicly.
This is a very rare watch.
(Above the 3800/1 with Gübelin signature – one of two known publicly).
Some collectors might have an issue for me taking a 3800/1 over the iconic 3700/1. The original model is more pure without the sweeping second. It is also more majestic. And let me state this clearly: Most 3700/1 in gold would also qualify as PAK watches simply due to their rarity and beauty too.
But here I also choose the 3800/1 for personal reasons – it is just a much more wearable watch. And in today’s age wearability plays a very big role. I think it is here where the 3800/1 has a big advantage over the older 3700/1 brother.
Lastly, I choose this watch because I frankly think it is overlooked. While the 3700/1 in gold is trading for CHF/USD 100’000 today – a 3800/1 can be had, depending on condition, for CHF /USD 25-30’000. Relative, to the models importance and rarity – that is good value for a full gold watch Patek Nautilus.
The watch above sold for CHF 52’000 just above the high estimate in 2017 May in Geneva. Although not a bargain – I think this will prove to be a superb buy. It has all the elements a collector could hope for: wearability, rarity and great design.
(NB: What to look out for: Collectors should look out for the following in a 3800 Nautilus. Often the band of this watch becomes loose with time and doesn’t fit tightly. A test of how the bands condition is, can be seen below. With the Nautilus closed, let it sit and see how the links and band reacts. A nice tight fit band should look like the test seen in the last picture below).
Below a 3800/1 Nautilus on my wrist (not the same as the watch above). It has perfect design proportions and fits perfectly – it is one of the most wearable Patek Nautilus out there.
Notice this is a later 3800/1 and has the absence of Aprior sigma markings and calendar in white instead of black. This watch will be auctioned by Koller Auktionen in Zurich later in June.
The band of this Nautilus in very good shape and can be described as almost new like condition. Collectors can do the sitting test and see how the Nautilus band reacts.
