This may sound crazy, but it is true. I don’t really like most chronographs. The pushers of most chronographs disturb the symmetry of a watch for me.
Let me explain what I mean.
I know they are many watch collectors who collect nothing but chronographs. They speak to many collectors for various reasons.
First, collectors are attracted to the complexity of the watch itself (a start stop and reset function is quite complicated to make). Secondly a chrono (unlike many complications) actually has a purpose that is useful. I own a few chronographs – how can you not being a watch collector – but my major concern with all of them is the following: I find most chronos with any kind of pushers not aesthetically pleasing. They ruin the design of the watch for me.
Now I understand that in order to have a chrono you need to have some pushers. Or do you?
My next PAK watch is a 130 Patek. And it is a single button chronograph.
(Credit Christies watches).
This, my friends, is what a perfect watch looks like. It is a 1929 Patek Ref 130 Single button chronograph.
When I first glanced at this watch in a catalogue, I didn’t even realize it was a chrono until I saw the sub-registers. It is elegant and has perfect symmetry in my view.
Not that I really am a chrono collector (I much prefer time only watches) primarily because of the design aesthetics. I like harmony in a watch and believe that only very few chronographs have perfect design proportions.
I think this 130 Patek is one of them though, that has perfect design proportions.
For a start you only have one button to active the chronograph function (so called monopoussoir), which is the winding crown. On the left of the case you have two buttons to reset the chronograph. The movement of this complex watch was provided by Victorin Piguet (see picture below).
This is why I love this watch so much. No annoying pushers on the side of the case. Just a winding crown that serves as a double function.
(Credit: Christies watches).
The other attribute that makes this chronograph appealing is the sector dial which is sought after by many collectors, for its puristic but effective layout.
(Credit: Christies watches).
Below a closer look at the hard raised Enamel print of the sector dial and signature. This is what watch dreams are made of!
(Credit: John Reardon / Christies watches).
The fact that this watch is a single button chrono made from 1920s immediately qualifies for PAK status in my view. As John Reardon of Christies explains: ‘single button chronographs are true luxury objects; difficult to make, this complication epitomizes horological genius and function.’
But what makes this watch truly outstanding and remarkable is the size. Most if not all 130 Patek’s were thought to be 33mm in size. This watch however is 35mm. Now, this might not sound big – but remember we are talking 1920s!
So now we have all the ingredients for PAK watch status – let me list them for you again:
- Rare single button chronograph from 1920s with long Signature
- Sector dial with hard raised enamel print in – tact on scales and signature
- Rare oversize case of 35mm (versus normal 33m for 130 Patek)
- A unique movement supplied by Victorin Piguet for Patek
What is most astounding is that a collector paid CHF 1.1m for it back in 2000. Twelve years later (assuming the watch remained with the buyer), the owner took a hit of CHF 250’000. However the watch sold for a still strong CHF 867’000 in 2012 (so much for all watches being a good investment).
Just to understand where prices are for this reference, a steel 130 Patek mono pusher (from 1927) also 35mm but with pulsation dial fetched an incredible CHF 4.4m in 2015 at Phillips watches. Ok, this is steel and the PAK watch is gold – but the point is clear: 130 Patek single button chrono belong to the most coveted watches on the planet.
This would be my choice if I had the budget- in terms of a chrono. It is pure and has perfect design proportions.
And best of all – most people will never know your wearing a chronograph. Only the very few who know.
