Le Monde Edmond

July 7, 2021

Past Auction Killer Rolex 1804 Day-Date ‘Summer Colors’ Edition

Fine WatchesCollector's Insight

Despite the weather telling you otherwise, it is actually summer in Europe and so we thought of a perfect PAK edition. Watches, that radiate a good mood feeling.

For me, personally, my favourite summer watch is the Day-date. Not just any day- date, but the Ref 1804. The reason is very simple: The 1804 is the model that I grew up with and that my father had. It is the quintessential Rolex watch that was the choice of countless heads of state, Presidents, Kings (like Hassan II of Morocco), and businessmen with exceptional taste.

Followers of my blog know by now, that I do love Rolex watches with diamonds. That is why I am drawn to the ‘ Ref 1804’ day-date especially. The Ref 1804 is a special day-date, as it by definition, came standard with a diamond bezel from the Rolex factory. For me it is the most elegant and sophisticated Day-date ever made, but it also can be the most fun and playful!

Allow me to show you 3 special pieces that all sold at auction and are PAK watches. All would look just fabulous in Monte Carlo, Cannes, Sardinia and or Capri.


1. A 1974 Rolex 1804 made for the Sultanate of Oman

I remember it like yesterday when this watch sold. Why? Well, it reminded me of my father’s day-date.

This example made for the Sultanate of Oman, remains one of the most impressive day-dates ever sold in my opinion. It has everything a Rolex collector could dream of. 1) It was made in platinum, the rarest and finest material in day-dates 2) It has a rarely seen dark blue dial 3) The dial made specifically for the Sultanate of Oman – with the red Khanjar printed on the dial by Rolex 4) Like many watches sold to Oman, it comes from the famed British retailer Asprey’s in London.

These platinum watches are special as they have a different dial layout than all other day-dates (the diamond hour markers are set more towards the centre of the dial than outer edge). This watch soared past its high estimate, and I think at the time, was the most expensive day-date ever sold at auction. It sold for CHF 311’000 (against an estimate of CHF 45-70’000) back in 2014.

In my view one of the great day-dates to have come to the market.

(Credit: Christies).


2. A 1977 Rolex 1804 with a ‘baby blue stella’ dial in Platinum

If the above watch is the most spectacular – the watch below is the most beautiful. A very rare ‘baby- blue Stella dial‘ in platinum.

What I love most about this watch is the dial. Not only is it a ‘Stella’ dial’, (hard lacquered enamel dials, often with bright colors which Rolex introduced in the 1970s) which makes it collectable on its own, but also for the particular bright color. The vivid color is a dream! It is warm (lume plots) and cold (platinum) at the same time and the dial itself goes so well with the platinum case and bracelet. The icing on the cake and what makes this watch stand out for me is: the warm beige lume against the light blue dial. The contrast is just perfect and most other baby blue dials have more white lume that doesn’t contrast as well as this darker beige lume does. 

This watch, for an odd reason that I cannot explain, sold at its high estimate of just CHF 55’000 a few years ago in 2015. I would have expected a stronger result given the rarity of the dial color as well as the nice condition of the watch.

For me personally, one of the nicest day-dates I have ever seen. A perfect summer watch.

(Credit: Phillips watches).


3. A 1977 Rolex 1804 with so called ‘sea foam Stella’ dial in white gold.

Day-dates are collectable for many reasons, among the top of which is when they have a ‘Stella dial‘. 

These state-of-the-art enamel dials were initially unpopular, but with time have become extremely collectable. The rule is usually this: The more rare and unique, the more collectable and valuable they are. Among the most unusual colors has to be what some call ‘sea foam’ or mint green lacquer. Known in not more than handful, these are among the rarest Stella dials that can be bought.

When this watch sold at Phillips in 2017, it sold for CHF 76’000 easily surpassing it’s high estimate of CHF 50’000. Interestingly enough, this not the first time this watch came to the market. Back in 2013, it sold for an astonishing CHF 106’000 after a CHF 20-30’000 estimate.

No doubt a perfect summer watch with its color that is refreshing and bright. It would match a 911 Porsche RS 964 in mint green perfectly too. (Picture Credit: Steve Kings).

(Credit: Phillips watches).

Concluding thoughts

Rolex day-dates, especially the 1804 have one other attribute that will make them interesting in the future: They are unisex – meaning they can be worn by both men and women and look equally good.

All of the watches I show in this PAK post cost a fortune when new- they were among the most expensive watches within the Rolex family that someone could buy (this has to do with the diamond dial as wells the diamond bezel). Many day-dates don’t hold their values that well (at least compared to other Rolex models) but there is one exception: Stella dial day dates. Just last year Phillips sold a yellow one (which is among the rarest of colors) for unbelievable CHF 200’000 – and it didn’t even have diamonds on the dial nor on the case

Stella dial day-dates have a very bright future ahead of them as do special dial Day-dates, (like the Khanjar).

Collectors rightly prize these watches for their beauty and rarity. Expect demand to remain strong and prices to continue to increase with time.

NB: For those are interested to read more about Stella dials – see this article that my friend Tarik of Momentum Dubai wrote.


Just for your viewing pleasure – I show a few more interesting day-dates with special dials that have been sold and worth mentioning.

First up, is what many consider to be the king of Day-dates flamboyancy ‘The Octopussy’ with Stella oxblood dial. Sold for a strong CHF 200’000 at Phillips watches in June 2020.


Another memorable day-date that sold at auction is this relatively modern day-date but super cool.

Have you ever seen a bezel like this? A so called ‘barc type‘ bezel with diamonds in between? This day-date has everything: Stella dial, Khanjar signed, and superb design with the diamond and gold fitted bezel. Looks like a custom order to me.

It explains the strong price of more than double the high estimate of CHF 125’000 (high estimate was CHF 60k), when it sold back in 2015. One of the most unusual day-dates I have ever seen.

(picture credit: Phillips watches).

The last day-date 1804 I show was never for sale at auction but belonged to my friend Momentum Dubai who had it for sale (and has since long been sold). Another dream baby blue Stella dial in a white gold case.

I had to include it simply because of the color!

 

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