It was only a matter of time before I would choose the Rolex 8171 ‘Padelone‘ as my next PAK watch.
While I have written about the 6062 many times before (owners report, service dials, black dials, two tone dials, Bao Dai), many collectors (myself included) tend to ignore the bigger brother, the 8171. I think it is mistake.
Rolex made only two triple calendar watches, the 6062 with oyster case, and the somewhat bizarre 8171. I say bizarre because the 8171 is an odd watch for Rolex.
Not only because it is a triple calendar (in the 1950s Rolex was primarily a sports watch maker) but also because the case was a non-oyster case, rather large at 38mm with ‘snap on’ case back. It was perhaps the attempt of Rolex to make a classical elegant evening watch – contracting somewhat the DNA of Rolex as we know it.*
In the past few years collectors have increasingly appreciated the 8171 and today it is clearly one of the most sought-after collectable models within vintage Rolex (even if I think the prices are probably undervalued given their importance and rarity). Made between 1949 and 1952 is it assumed that less than 1500 pieces in all metals exist today, 200 of which have been identified. Stainless steel is the most common followed by gold and pink gold (which is the opposite with the sister reference 6062 where steel is the most rare and coveted).
While the 8171 exists in various materials, I will concentrate on what I think is the best material to have for this watch: pink gold.
*(Having said that Rolex did make some elegant cloisonné Enamel watches but this remained an exception for Rolex).
In theory the 8171 is very easy to understand. Except, it is not.
In fact the 8171 is very complicated because there are many more dial variations than the 6062 (alone in gold 8171 there are more than 10 dial variations). I didn’t know that until recently
In just about every important Rolex model you have different series of watches within a model. Just like the 5512 submariner or 1675 GMT master exists in different series, so too does the 8171. I am in middle of writing an in-depth report on the 8171, so I won’t go into too much detail – except to say there are various series in the 8171.
My next PAK watch belongs to the pinnacle of vintage Rolex collecting. I have yet to see a more impressive 8171 than this example (not counting steel with diamonds 8171).
(Credit: Christies).
Allow me to introduce a 1949 Rolex 8171 cased in pink gold with a first series dial.
This Padelone belongs to one of the very first 8171 ever to appear on the market with case Nr 667 xxx.
The first series dial can be differentiated with a Rolex crown that collectors term ‘small crown’ as it looks like it was chopped off at the bottom, versus a second series dial which looks like this. Furthermore only early 8171 with first series dials have the Officially Certified Chronometer rating below the day and month calendar windows. Second series dials have the ‘Officially certified chronometer‘ rating below in the moon phase area.
What makes this watch truly unique, besides the condition, is the dial.
It is the only known Fab Suisse dial I know of in a 8171, and most certainly this watch was made for the French market. What does Fab Suisse mean? It simply means ‘Fabrique en Suisse‘ – ‘made in Switzerland’ in French. The calendar is also as a result in French (VEN for Vendredi or Friday). Technically you have a double swiss dial similar to that I found in a rare explorer I wrote about here. Naturally, like most original dials of the 8171 it is signed ‘Swiss Made‘ (which by the way would be incorrect for a 6062, as I point out here).
The condition of this watch is outstanding.
The two tone dial is clearly visible, between the outer ring and centre dial. The calendar windows extremely sharp and the dial remains untouched from any cosmetic alteration. The dial is so good and so original it probably was exactly like this when it left the factory in the 1950s.
The 8171 movement (see picture below) was powered by an in-house Rolex movement that was automatic Cal A295 (the ‘A‘ denoting Automatic). In most literature the movement is known as the Calibre 10.5 too. Notice the large super balance rotor that winds the large Padelone at 38mm.
(Picture Credit: Alfredo Paramico).
The case in unpolished as can be seen from the back, where the crown and serial number of the watch is still visible (see picture below).
The case retains two stamps or hallmarks that are extremely clear (one on the lug and one on the side of the case).
Since it is a watch destined for the French market, the French import stamp can be clearly seen on the side of the case.
The watch furthermore comes with the original Rolex buckle (an extreme rarity in itself).
PAK watch par excellence
A pink gold 8171 in this condition automatically qualifies as a PAK watch as it is rare and important in Rolex history as one of two only references with triple calendar. But with a unique and first series dial made for the French market, catapults this watch in another league in my opinion. Let me list the PAK reasons:
- First series dial with unique Fab suisse dial cased in pink gold
- Incredible condition of the two tone dial with sharp angles and untouched dial
- Exceptionally rare French import stamp to side of the case and lug.
- Unpolished and untouched case with crown and serial nr legible in case back
This watch changed hands back in 2008 already for CHF 294’000, which would be a decent price for a 8171 in gold today. It was a strong price back then, but it was a trophy watch. Alfredo Paramico, has owned the watch for a period, since it sold at auction, and has said ‘it is one of the best 5 vintage Rolex to ever surface condition wise’.
Since then the watch has apparently changed hands for near the $1m mark and today sits in a private collection in California.
Judging from the pictures, it is-in my view, the best 8171 in pink gold I have ever seen and maybe the best 8171 that is out there.
I let the picture pictures speak for themselves. A true PAK watch. (All picture credits below: Alfredo Paramico).
We start off with the dial that is just marvel (notice how fat the case is).
Let us look at the details. The moon-phase area with fine lines that carries a slightly different surface than the dial.
The outer ring in perfect blue and notice the two tone dial (and different surface area) here on the picture below. Just perfect.
The calendar windows with sharp edges that often get lost with time also when they are restored.
SAM standing for Samedi which is Saturday in French.
The Rolex signature and crown in perfect 10/10 condition just as it left the factory in 1950s.
We move onto the case. French hallmark/ import stamp on the side which is correct for a Fab Suisse dial.
Look how crisp that stamp is and case.
Another stamp to be found on the lug. Crisp and sharp. Again French import hallmark.
To finish things off, this watch naturally comes with the original Rolex buckle – a rarity in itself.
The last picture (from Christies) shows the watch in all its glory.
This my friends is art. Engineering art at it’s finest.
