Le Monde Edmond

April 14, 2015

In-depth review Vintage Rolex: The double swiss – GMT

Fine WatchesCollector's Insight

IMG_6778

Double Swiss. Thinking Daytona? You should be also thinking GMT Master. Let me explain.

When collectors of vintage Rolex talk about ‘double swiss’ the talk is usually referred to the rare early Daytona 6239, that is covered very well by Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, who also happens to be the owner of the watch (for the details post on the double swiss 6239 Daytona please see here). There also exists a double Swiss Submariner  and a double Swiss Explorer.

But did you know that another ‘double swiss’ exists within vintage Rolex? Yup. It caught me off-guard as well.

A double swiss GMT.


First off, I will openly admit: The GMT line is, next to the Submariner, my favorite line within Rolex.

Not only is it a beautiful and very colorful Rolex, but it represents a wonderful thing- adventure and travel (The GMT line was created for PANAM pilots in the 1950’s to keep two time zones).

Perhaps the most famous and diverse line within GMT is the 1675 reference. It was made over an extremely long period of time (from 1960 to 1979/1980). Almost every kind of version exists. Underline, pointed crown guards, exclamation point, chapter ring, non-chapter ring, gilt dials, non gilt dials, white printing, not to talk about the different bezel insert options (blueberry, rasberry, pepsi, all black, all brown).

I thought I was familiar with most configurations until a friend mentioned ‘double swiss’ on his 1675. I thought he was mixing it up for a Daytona (that double swiss I was aware of), but he was not.


For a very short period of time, Rolex made a double ‘swiss’ signed dial with the 1675 reference- but only in the year 1963 and very early 1964 up to 1.100.000 range (according a leading authority on vintage Rolex).

If you look at the main picture above- at six o’clock- there are two ‘swiss’ signs to be noticed. The watch is further special in that the dial is an ‘underline’ dial – introduced by Rolex to signal a shift away from Radium to tritium based lume (or so the theory goes according to collectors).

This GMT also features the rare and collectible ‘cornino’ or pointed crown guards that are correct for such an early 1675.

What might be further interesting to note -for the GMT aficionado- is that Rolex had another version of the ‘double swiss’ dial. Not only did two ‘swiss’ dials exist (like the one above) but rather one t>25 dial (which came after the chapter ring dial) and then further down – signed by swiss. An example of this watch is provided further below in the footnotes.

So here you have it. A double swiss dial within the GMT line of Rolex.

That is the great thing about vintage Rolex. Just when you think you know a little- you begin to realise just how little you know.

(NB: There also exists a double Swiss Explorer. See our report here for this strange beast).


No report would be complete without supplemental pictures of the rare double swiss GMT. 

As mentioned previously, another dial variation existed with the ‘double swiss’ dial of 1675. This is a t>25 and swiss configuration. Owner of the watch is a Bill from puristpro.

gmt double swiss

 Another shot of the rare t>25 and swiss below – now owned by an Asian collector based in HK. (Picture credit: Silas).

double swiss 1675

Another exceptional watch remains this Serpico & Laino Double swiss. (Credit John Goldberger).

Below one of the best double swiss I have ever had the pleasure to hold in my hands now owned by an Asian collector.

double swiss gmt

Below a double Swiss dial out of the watch case.

(Main picture credit: WS of rare and fine watches / Second picture credit: Mesa71).

Sign up for our newsletter
Newsletter