50 goals a vintage watch collector should aspire to: Part 4/5
Fine WatchesCollector's Insight31. Own one perpetual calendar: How can I not include this complication in this list. While an annual calendar is nice to have – the perpetual calendar eliminates the need to adjust the watch in February and only the leap year (every four years) needs adjusting. I cannot think of a more useful complication than this. There are so many beautiful ones to acquire but maybe my favourite remains the elusive 5516 from Audemars, the first watch with leap year indication.
However, I would be just as happy with a 3448 or 2438-1 by Patek too. Missing.
(Credit: J Fried).
32. Own one Gerald Genta designed watch: For many Gerald Genta created some of the most distinctive shapes in watch making history. The Patek Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur, along with the Rolex Midas are just some of his most famous designs. I think owning one watch designed by Genta is a must for any watch collector.
33. Own a watch with moon phase indication: Owning a watch with moon phase indication is must for any watch collector. Not only is the moon part of the cycle of time, many religions use it to celebrate important dates.
The Jewish people, Muslims and Christians all use the moon to mark and celebrate important holidays. Rolex triple calendars have a nice moon phase as the moon carries a face and the moon phase of Patek is worth owning simply to the vibrancy of the blue.
34. Own one Patek Calatrava: If you had to list the most iconic and historically important watch models that have stood the test of time, I would list the Patek Calatrava among them. Starting with ref 96, the Patek Calatrava has come to symbolize what Patek stands for over time (indeed the Calatrava cross is also the symbol of Patek Philippe). While I think many Calatrava models are beautiful (530, 570), Ref 96 is maybe my favourite due to its understated size and importance.
A Patek Calatrava, in any size is a must in any collection. Missing.
35. Own one watch in Rose Gold: Many collectors believe (and I agree with them), that Rosegold is warmer than yellow gold. Much like a platinum watch, a Rose gold watch belongs in a watch collection full stop. My favourite combination is Rose gold with a black dial.
36. Own a Cartier tank: Along with the Reverso, Calatrava and Submariner, the Cartier tank must be considered one of the all time great watch models. Not owning a Cartier tank and being a watch collector is similar to collecting German cars and not owning a 911. You can get away with it but your missing out on a big part of German car culture.
Not owning a tank is missing out on watch design history. Missing.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
37. Own one watch with sector dial: Sector dials have been around almost as long as the wrist watch itself (the first sector dials were already seen in the 1920-1930’s on pocket watches). Sector dials have something very pleasing about them and they separate the dial very effectively. At first I did not quite understand why sector dials are so sought after by collectors, today I fully get it. Missing.
38. Own one watch with a two-tone dial: This has got to be one of the most pleasurable aspect of owning a vintage watch. Many of the watches in the 1940s – 1960s outsourced their dial production to specialists and as a result brands came up with sophisticated dials that had different textures and different colors. One of my favourite two tone dials can be found in Rolex watches, especially the 6062.
39. Own a watch that is not a wristwatch or pocket watch: A true watch lover will own a watch that is not a wristwatch. And by that I don’t mean a watch that is on the iPhone. There are many forms of watches that are not wristwatches. Desk watches, money-clip watches, table clocks (think Atmos or Cartier invisible clocks) to mention a few. I even have a lipstick watch from Cartier where ladies could read the time when applying their lipstick.
Own one watch that not a pocket watch or wristwatch. It is rewarding. Look at this very rare 1930s Cartier (with Jaeger movement) made out of horn money clip watch below.
(Picture Credit: BEC).
40. Own a brand that is not an obvious choice.
I am very focused on Rolex (and some Patek) but there are many great brands out there besides the usual choices. I want to own at least one brand that is not an obvious choice. Like maybe a cool Breitling or nice Breguet watch. Both begin with ‘B’, both have a nice history and made some pretty cool watches.
Whatever brand you choose, choose one watch that makes you happy. Where – collectors will look twice at your wrist and think ‘that is something you don’t see everyday‘.
(Credit: Goldberger).
