Collector series 50 goals a vintage watch collector should aspire to: Part 2/5
Fine WatchesCollector's Insight11. To own a solid gold (yellow or pink gold) watch including the bracelet: I can’t say this enough – gold is the new steel. It is warm, fun, it looks superb and makes a statement. Be it an evening watch completely in gold or a cool ‘Day-date’ or Daytona – if your a watch collector and don’t own a full gold watch – well I think your missing out on a lot.
Today gold watches are totally acceptable and they being adopted by young collectors like never before.
12. To own a watch with a double signature: Ever since I started to collect watches – I have been told by collectors, auction houses, experts and ‘pretty much anybody in the watch world’ – that a double signed watch is more interesting and valuable than one with only one signature. Why does a retailer signature matter? It is just a retailer!
Well over the years I have understood why (I will leave that for another post) and so one of my goals is to find a double signed watch. There are many attractive and exotic names like Serpico y Laino, Tiffany for the US market for Patek and who can forget the Italian ones Gobbi or Hausmann; but since I grew up in Switzerland I would be more than happy with a Beyer, Gübelin or Galli too. Missing.
13. Own one watch with an engraving on the back: Vintage watches often have a great story to tell. Part of that story can be found on a case-back with an engraving of the previous owner. It can either be his initial or even a message to someone’s birthday or from a wife to a husband. I find watches with an engraving much more pleasing and warm and there is something romantic about an engraving.
Maybe I am biased. Every single watch my mother has given me (or cufflink, or desk watch or cigar ashtray) has an engraving on it. Below, the watch my mother gave her brother, with both pictured on it.
14. Own one watch with diamonds: Every collector needs one bling watch. It can be the indexes that are made of diamonds, or the bezel – diamonds add some playfulness to a watch and some sparkle that becomes addictive. The Italians have taught me the allure of diamond watches and, at first, I didn’t get it. Now I do – they are in front of the curve (as always). Not everybody can pull a diamond watch off and that is exactly why I like them.
(Picture credit: Goldberger).
15. Own one rectangular watch: I say this over and over again. Rectangular and square shaped watches are more classy than round watches. Some of the most elegant watches in my view are not round but rectangular in shape. Think back to the 1930s and 1940s a time of understated elegance – a time when Cartier made some of the most beautiful watches but also a time when the Reverso was born. For understated elegance I personally think this shape is unbeatable.
(Picture credit: Goldberger).
16. Own one a Rolex GMT Master: Next to the submariner, the GMT Master is my favourite line within Rolex. There is something Romantic about owning a Rolex GMT Master- after all the model was created for pilots in the 1950s in co-operation with PANAM to better keep track of time in different time zones. You can play with the dials but also bezel colors and come up with endless combinations.
(Credit: Park Ji Hong).
17. Own a monopusher chronograph: While I know many collectors who collect only chronographs (I am clearly not one of them) even among chronograph collectors – most of them don’t own a mono pusher. While the average Joe on the street can probably recognise a chronograph, most of them will not be able to recognise a mono pusher. Understated and complicated – these are some of the ultimate chronographs in my opinion. Missing.
(Credit: Davide Parmigiani).
18. Own one time only watch: Watch collectors can get caught up with details. So much so that as a result of all the details, most collectors never end up owning a watch for which it was designed for: To tell time. No seconds. No date. No complication. Just a watch that tells the time with an hour and minutes hand. For me a ‘true time only’ watch is one even without the seconds indicator. Hard to believe, but I still don’t own this. Missing.
19. Own a watch with Breguet numerals: Much like a double signed dial with retailer signature – in my early days of collecting – this was one point I kept on hearing from collectors: Their goal was to own a dial with Breguet numerals. Now I can understand why. The shape and font is very attractive and playful; therefore it gets my vote of being included in the list of 50 details to aspire too. Missing.
20. Own one watch with a Presidential bracelet from Rolex: Rolex might be best known for the Oyster bracelet, which it designed in the 1930s already – to go along with their waterproof oyster cases, but it is the presidents bracelet which in my opinion is the most pleasurable and comfortable to wear.
Created in 1956 for Rolex’s flagship and most expensive model, the ‘day date‘ – the presidents bracelet was made in white gold, gold or platinum. One ingenious invention of the Presidents bracelet is the hidden clasp called Crownclasp – where the clasp is concealed giving a smooth design.
A day- date with a Presidents bracelet is a ‘must have’ in my opinion.
