There are many reasons to love Rolex and I have listed them all here in my 5 Part series ‘why I love vintage Rolex’.
Recently another reason has come to my mind, why vintage Rolex is so alluring. It has to do with playfulness. Let me explain.
After the post world war II period, the world economies entered a growth phase and they began to rebuild. People began to spend money on experiences and cars were entering the mainstream that gave people new freedom. It was also the beginning of commercial aircraft travel where the affluent could explore and start to discover the world.
This also influenced watch brands, believe it or not.
Brands become more imaginative and audacious in their designs versus the 1940s which had been more strict. Watch designers dared to dream again. Patek launched playful watches like the 2442. Another one of the outcomes of this more playfulness in regards to watches was the birth of the so called Star dials by Rolex.
Stars have always been something special and magical to man-kind.
They are a phenomenon, ‘a natural luminous body visible in the sky especially at night’. They can twinkle at night and cause us to dream. Stars often have a positive association for us at least they do for me personally. When I was small I would receive a star for doing my homework or keeping my room tidy. The more stars I collected the more I was rewarded with little presents. Indeed stars can often mean a goal or achievement in that we ‘strive to reach for the stars’.
It was only a matter of time before I came to discover stars and the meaning and rarity they have in Rolex watches from the 1950s.
I would like to share my findings with you and I dedicate this post to all of those who love to dream.
Many collectors think of the 6062 when they think of star dials.
While these star dial or stelline 6062 are perhaps the most famous dials associated with stars- they are in fact not that rare. This post will be devoted to time only star dials by Rolex also known as Galaxy models.
Star dials have something alluring about them: They are magical and playful and beautiful, especially in time only watches which we will be covering below. Depending on the light, star dials are appealing because they can capture the light perfectly and contrast nicely with the black dial – see picture here.
Not only are star dials beautiful in my opinion, but they are also extremely rare, to find a time only star Rolex remains an elusive venture. And what better post to celebrate the pre-Christmas spirit than to look at star dial time only watches from Rolex.
(Main picture credit: Phillipswatches).
(Credit picture: Phillips watches – considered the king of star dial time only: 6088 black dial with stars, so called ‘Galaxy’ pictured above).
The first star dials appeared in the early 1950s.
However, the earliest star dial I have seen is from the personal archive of John Goldberger, ref 2705. It is a 1947 Rolex Ref 2705 with case number 144 xxx. In my view it is probably a prototype of future star dials. Notice also the numerals of 6 and 12 radium, something that later versions would not carry anymore. Later version had only stars as numerals on the dial.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
According to my findings, most star dials were made between a short time span of 1950-53.
Case numbers ranged from 698’xxx to 947’xxx. Only one star dial is known outside this range that has been sold publicly – it is in 1955 with case number 18’709.
Only four references are known (at least according to my research) to carry star dials that are time only. They are 6024 (two are known) 6098 (which is the most common), 6088 and 6090. The references 6088 and 6098 are sister references carrying both relatively large oyster cases (36mm) made by the same company that made the 6062 (Genex SA) which was a subsidiary of dial maker Stern Freres. The 6090 was a small case (32mm) and ‘bombed‘ in nature with fancy lugs giving it an entirely completely look. There is also ref 6426 with a star dial* yet none of these watches have an auction record – so I did not include them -besides the fact that I don’t find them as attractive as the other four references I included here.
Here is summary of the 10+ star dial time only that have sold publicly and are known. Some are private transactions (like 947’848 and 912’015 which is also in the John Goldberger book 100 superlative Rolex watches),
There are maybe a few more out there – for example Antiquorum has sold 3-4 but for which case numbers are unknown as they didn’t disclose them. I list some of the links below.
- Case Nr: 698’xxx. Ref 6024 1950**
- Case Nr: 716′ 115 Ref 6088 1950
- Case Nr: 725’450 Ref 6098 1950
- Case Nr: 727′ 060 Ref 6098 1950
- Case Nr: 740′ 036 Ref 6098 1950
- Case Nr: 855′ 397 Ref 6090 1952
- Case Nr: 911’992 Ref 6098 1952/53
- Case Nr: 912’006 Ref 6098 1952/53
- Case Nr: 912’015 Ref 6098 1952/53 (private transaction).
- Case Nr: 912′ 019 Ref 6098 1952/53
- Case Nr: 912’107 Ref 6098 1952/53
- Case Nr: 912’120 Ref 6098 1952/53***
- Case Nr: 919’039 Ref 6098 1953 (Goldberger 100 Rolex watches p38)
- Case Nr: 928’128. Ref 6098 1953
- Case Nr: 947’778 Ref 6098 1953
- Case Nr: 947’848 Ref 6098 1953 (private transaction).
- Case Nr: 18′ 709 Ref 6090 1955
* (The watch advisor) **(Credit: Only vintage / Corrado Matterelli) *** (Credit: John Goldberger).
(Unknown case numbers at Antiquorum can be seen here: 1. Honeycomb, 2. Honeycomb S&L 3. black dial 6098)
A summary of the references
The earliest reference to carry the star dial (besides ref 2705) seems to be Ref 6024.
The model differs from the 6098 in the fact that it is a manual wound watch versus later references like the 6098 which are a self winding chronometer with an automatic movement (so called perpetual). There are only two known models of the 6024 both of which have honeycomb and white dials. The case seems to be flatter in appearance and slimmer according to John Goldberger.
(Credit: Only vintage / Corrado Matterelli. The earliest star dial as we know it with star numerals ref 6024).
Below the movement of the 6024 which is the only known 1950s star dial time only to carry a manual wound movement.
The next star dial reference is Ref 6098 which can include both black glossy dials and white honeycomb dials.
According to Christies lot notes – a total of 8 star dials 6098 are thought to exist with silvered honeycomb dials. Another three of them are found with black dials. Collectors often associate the 6098 to the pre-explorer that Hillary wore in stainless steel and it was this watch that accompanied him to Mount Everest (and which the Beyer Museum now owns).
Collectors sometimes refer to these watches as large bubble backs or ‘Ovettone’ due to their similar design to the bubble back. Cases are screw down oyster cases with a relatively large 36mm size made by the casemaker Genex SA and are exactly the same as the famous model 6062 which includes the triple calendar complication.
The watch is also known as the galaxy by Rolex – see advertisement below.
(Credit: Various including John Goldberger, Rare & Fine).
The most sought after 6088 and 6098 is certainly the black star dial, one of which was sold in 2012 in Geneva by Christies for CHF 363’000 and then again by Phillips in 2017 for record CHF 670’000. This watch is a unique reference 6088 and although similar to the sister reference 6098 is much rarer as only one watch is known that has sold publicly vs several 6098.
Another and similar black star dial watch sold in 2015 for CHF 425’000. See the elusive and rare black dial star numerals below with lume on the stars. Again this is ref 6088 that still holds the record price for any star dial time only Rolex.
(Credit:Christies watches).
Already back in 2006 – a black dial star 6098/6088 sold at Antiquorum for an outstanding CHF 120’000 – significantly more than any Rolex Paul Newman at the time (see picture below). Top collectors have known for a long time that star dial time only Rolex belong to the pinnacle of Rolex collecting.
(Already back in 2006 – so 12 years ago a black star dial fetched a strong CHF 120’000).
The black dials are sought after due to the golden gilt printing on the dial and contrasting black dial which is a perfect contrast.
Most of the movements found on the 6098/6088 are gilt movements (and differ from the standard A260 non gilt movement found in other Rolex watches like the 6090 for example). Below the spectacular copper coloured gilt movement of an A260 super balance movement belonging in a 6098.
I would want to own a 6088 just for this superb movement!
(Picture credit: John Goldberger).
Other variations of the 6098 include the white dial honeycomb version with or without a retailer signature. Several of them are found with serial numbers very close to each other (for example in the 912 xxx range – only 100 case numbers apart). Below the attractive honeycomb star dial 6098 that fetched a healthy CHF 187’000 in 2017 in Geneva.
(Credit:Christies watches).
The last variation of the large bubblback 6098 are very rare star dials that are found in steel cases. Both carry serial numbers relatively close to each other (less than 2000 case numbers apart). First is the Christies watch that sold in 2007 – one of two known in steel . Serial Nr 727 ‘060.
(Credit:John Goldberger /Christies).
The second one is from Sothebys in Hong Kong that sold a year later in 2008. Notice the slightly different hands but all else remains the same. Gold star dials applied to the marvellous honeycomb dial. Serial Nr 725 ‘450.
The next star dial time only watches is Ref 6090.
They belong to another family called Bombé (domed in French) style watches, due to their fancy lugs and shape and seem domed. Some collectors also call this watch the Bombay lugs model. The lugs are playful, curved and domed in appearance.
To get a idea of how perfect these lugs are look at this picture here.
Housed in a much smaller case of only 32.5mm this Bombay type watch is seen with two movements, one is the A260 (A for automatic movement) similar to the ref 6098 and the other carrying a calibre 645 which comes from the bubbleback movements. The case is water- resistant. The reference 6090 with star dial is one of the only cases with star dials that was made in both 14kt and 18kt gold.
I personally think the star dial fits this case design very well as it is more playful and rounded in nature, than the oyster case found on the 6098 which resembles more of a sports watch. Even though the case of the 609o is small in diameter (32.5mm) it wears much larger due to the elongated lugs – see the wrist shot here.
As with the larger 6098, the printing of Rolex and outer minute track below is gilt as well as the Rolex signature and contrasts nicely with the black dial.
(Credit: Christies watches).
Below the movement for the 6090 that is probably a A260 automatic movement.
Most of the movements found in a 6090 are signed ‘F’ followed by a 5 digit number.
Dial variations and dial maker Stern Freres
Most dials in star dial time only have the same layout.
All hours are denoted by stars except 3,6 and 9 which have so called dagger indexes and the Rolex crown at 12 o’clock. Also most star dials have the lume place inside the stars (unlike the 6062 where the stelline version often has lume outside the stars). The only exception remains the 6090 star dials where the lume is clearly place outside the stars near the edge of the dial (see picture below).
As far as the signature as the bottom is concerned, most dial were simply signed ‘Swiss’ which is common for the period in many references (like 6062 gold model). The only standout among all the watches is the 6090 glossy dial sold by Christies in 2013. The dial is signed ‘Swiss Made‘ instead of the only ‘Swiss’ seen on almost every other star dial only time only watch from the 1950s.
Now before we dismiss this as possibly not born with the watch lets consider an important fact: The 6062 in steel and all 8171 both of which were also made in the 1950s had their dials signed ‘Swiss Made’.
According to Christies and other experts, all star dials for Rolex were made by Stern Freres.
This also includes dials made for the 6062. Most often these dials had the Rolex code stamped (like in the example below). For example 103*989 2, the number 103 being the Stern Frères code for Rolex, 989 referring to the dial type and 2 indicating that it is the second example of this particular dial made (source: Christies lot notes).
(Credit: Christies watches – Below the back of the dial type found on a 6090 Bombay or bombe star dial that was sold at Christies in 2018 November Geneva sale).
Closing thoughts
Star dial time only watches from Rolex remain among the most collectable watches ever made by the company (even as far back as 2000 they were selling for excess of the auction estimate). They are a reflection of the prosperous 1950s which was so positive and dynamic and marked by huge advances in mobility with the car becoming accessible for the masses and the first transatlantic flights taking place.
The Galaxy still today remains one of the most playful designs by Rolex.
Made in extremely limited numbers intended for the well do to gentlemen to whom ‘time means so much and to who discriminating appearance remains the utmost importance‘ as Rolex states in their advertising for the Galaxy. The Italians even nicknamed these watches the ‘stelline‘ or star dials and today all star dials play an important part in Rolex history.
Collectors have recognised this and finding one today remains a near impossible task. I fully understand and appreciate why these star dials are so sought after.
Not only do they make the collector dream with the playfulness of the dials (by putting a face on the moon or stars on the dial), but Rolex once again dared to go where no other brand went.
Rolex was at its best when it was playful.
(NB: I would like to thank Charles Gounod from Christies in helping with the pictures of the star dial watches that sold at auction).
(Below a few more pictures of star dial Rolex watches for your viewing pleasure. For full disclosure-I or my trust do own a star dial 6090 black dial).
A beautiful 6098 honeycomb star dial, that sold at Christies that I got to inspect back in 2017.
Another view of the honeycomb star dial on a textured tablecloth that resembles the dial. Shot with my Sony.
A double signed Serpico & Laino 6098 honeycomb dial.
The watch above seems to be the same watch that sold at Christies below in 2010 for only $27’000.
Another splendid honeycomb watch ref 6098 (maybe the best I have seen on a photo – sent to me by watcharts.
(Credit: Watcharts).
The king of all Galaxy watches, the black dial unique 6088 reference that sold at Phillips in 2016 for a record CHF 670’000 (Credit: Phillips watches).
An incredible shot of the black dial 6088 which is now owned by an Asian collector with exquisite taste and only accepts the best quality.
The beautiful gilt outer minute track can be nicely seen below.
(Picture credit: Rolexpassionreport).
Another picture of the large Galaxy star dial 6088 that I took with my Sony camera back in 2016.
Staying with black dials this Bombay 6090 is much smaller in size with playful and fancy lugs and was bought for just CHF 22’000 this year.
Star dials are magical especially when the light captures the stars and contrasts with the black dial.
Last shot of the 6090 in natural sunlight.
The same model as above, so Ref 6090, but with glossy dial and ‘Swiss Made’ dial. Interestingly enough, the case was 14kt versus 18k for the other one sold this year.
The watch below sold at Christies in 2013.
The next star dial we show is among the very first to have been made: Ref 6024 with just the word precision on the dial.
(Credit: John Goldberger).
We end the bombay series with the another reason to love star dials: They are loved and sought after by both men and women equally.
Let us take a closer look.
The last shot is of my favourite star dial time only watch: the 6098.
(Credit: DM).
