A month on the wrist Rolex Daytona 116519LN: Oysterflex white gold Part 1
Fine WatchesCollector's InsightMany people asked me what the new Oysterflex Daytona is like.
I have been wearing the watch for more than month now and I would like to share a few thoughts on it with you.
First of all, let me explain why I choose this particular modern Daytona.
One thing was very clear- if I was going to buy a modern watch, I also wanted the latest technology to go with it. That meant I wanted a Daytona with a ceramic bezel and this automatically ruled out many older Daytona models that are still available. I also didn’t want the steel ones (even if I do think they are attractive). I never wanted a watch that everybody had no matter how attractive it was (the fact that everybody wanted one made it unattractive in my view).
Let us be honest, most people are price constrained on the level of a Rolex Daytona and the ceramic steel daytona is affordable for many people. Double the price of the watch and then add some 10% and it becomes more problematic for people to buy the same watch (which is what the Oysterflex Daytona essentially is). Most collectors are priced out of the market for an oyster flex Daytona and the result is you don’t see that many around (something that I am not against as a collector). So, I wanted a ceramic Daytona non steel.
That left me with either the platinum version (which I liked but not loved) and the Oysterflex models in all gold materials.
Overall looks and dial of the watch
What appealed to me with the Oysterflex models were several things:
First, not everybody seemed to have one (that has partially to do with the higher price point). Second – it was something completely different that came out of Rolex! For the first time ever, Rolex offered a Daytona that came without a oyster bracelet (it is not even an option as you cannot add an oyster bracelet to this particular Daytona). Third – because of the oyster flex band – it is not obvious to many people that you are even wearing a Rolex.
While I honestly love all materials of the Oysterflex, I ultimately choose the white gold version due to the timeless appeal of the watch but also due to the fact that it seemed less common. And I spotted Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee wearing one on his Instagram and I trust and share his taste.
The dial of the white gold watch is extremely timeless in my view and the most attractive of all Ceramic Daytona in my opinion (including the steel models). The silver grey dial is a perfect contrast to the black ceramic bezel with the white printing on it (see picture below). This combination of white writing on the black ceramic bezel is only else found on the steel ceramic daytona.
The black sub- dials contrast perfectly with the silver brushed dial and in view is the perfect dial combination – even more attractive than the black dial steel ceramic version* or the white dial ceramic. The white gold oyster flex has that perfect balance in my view and red Daytona writing reminds me of the classic 6263 Big red in steel* (which has the inverse dial) which has become an icon today.
What is interesting about the sub-dials is that they are, much like the old Daytona, slightly sunken in and have fine lines that go across the outer circle of the sub-dials which can be seen clearly on the picture below. These lines are not noticeable if you look at the Daytona from the front (see picture above).
*(Credit: Whiskeyman40 /Reddit).
Weight & size of the watch
After wearing the Daytona for more than a month now and sleeping with it, here are my thoughts on the watch:
White gold is a heavy material and the weight of the watch is something you have to get used to especially if your used to lighter vintage watches as I am. But it is heavy in the exactly right place (centre) and the oyster flex provides a perfect weight balance to the watch, making the watch heavy but light at the same time (please do yourself a favour and try one on). The size of the watch is relatively big at 40mm. I have a relatively small wrist and while I can easily support 40mm, an oyster flex makes the watch look even larger. This has to do with the way the oyster flex is designed and how it hugs your wrist.
Oyster flex design flaw
The biggest strength of the oyster flex bracelet is at the same time its biggest weakness. It feels super comfortable and very light and absorbs heat extremely well, but in my view the comfort of the bracelet was made at the expense of how it looks on the wrist.
Let me explain: The oyster flex is made of high performance elastomer which is very light, flexible and durable. Inside the bracelet there are two blades (see picture below) that allow the oyster flex material to better absorb heat and feel more comfortable in general. This technology works. The oyster flex bracelet is the most comfortable bracelet I have ever tried on. But it comes at a cost in terms of aesthetics.
I find the oyster flex bracelet does sit on your wrist as good as it should. Not in terms of comfort but in terms of aesthetics.
So, for people with small wrists – the watch can appear quite large as it does not hug your wrist in a flattering manner. The oyster flex bracelet makes the watch appear larger than it is due to the balloon like circular appearance of the oyster flex bracelet.
Rather than going straight down from the lugs like an oyster bracelet would do, it sticks out from the sides where the oyster flex starts (see picture below). Those two blades are part of the problem. It is here were the oyster flex shows it biggest weakness as a watch. The oyster flex and way it is integrated into the case makes the watch appear larger than it is. I think for people with very big wrists it is not a problem. But for the average watch collector – I think it doesn’t work.
In the department of aesthetics – I find the oyster bracelets in steel much more appealing* than the oyster flex in the way it adapts and fits to the wrist. Granted they are probably less comfortable to wear in the summer and the heat.
But my point is: the comfort of Oysterflex and its heat absorbing technology came at a cost of design and aesthetics in my view. The oyster flex is also not as versatile as an oyster bracelet (the watch looks completely out of place in a blazer or evening shirt). I think Rolex can do better. Only with casual wear does the oyster flex shine bright.
Having said that a white gold bracelet would have made the watch too heavy in my view and thus weight wise the Rolex oyster flex is just perfect. Also, the oyster flex bracelet adds a touch of sportiness to the Daytona that is just perfect – something that the normal steel Daytona with oyster bracelet does not have. Daytona stands for sports, car-racing and outdoor action. The oyster flex fits this perfectly. I love the overall look of the oyster flex Daytona, but Rolex has to improve the details, and how it adapts to the wrist (which it does perfectly) without looking bulky.
*(Picture credit: Alekswatches).
Wearability everyday & night
In terms of wearing it everyday – it is big watch but not too big. It is heavy but just perfectly so.
It does not disturb while swimming or doing sports or sleeping with it and tells excellent time in the darkness. One slight flaw of the watch – is that the lume in the minute hand for my taste is not long enough. Also, the fact that there is no lume at Midnight is slightly irritating – I am aware that Rolex couldn’t do it due to the lack of space, the Rolex crown sits at 12 o’clock. I challenge Rolex to come up with a solution!
Else, I find it a very practical watch to wear on an everyday basis. For an everyday watch during the day for casual wear in the summer it is very appealing. I love the sporty look of the oyster flex Daytona!
What I don’t recommend is wearing this with an evening shirt or with a jacket and tie.
I find the watch is much too bulky in appearance (again I raise the issue of the balloon like look) and it looks extremely vulgar. I tried it once and was so embarrassed by the look I ended up putting the watch in my blazer pocket (yes, I am a bit obsessive). Again this is a major downside of an oyster flex watch – I think an steel oyster bracelet ceramic bezel looks much better in evening wear than an oyster flex.
In that sense the steel Daytona with Ceramic bezel (that has now a 10 year waiting list) is a better all around watch than the oyster flex in my view. It is more versatile in how you can wear it – it looks good with a blazer but also with a casual wear (which is not the case with the Oyster flex). The downside is that every Tom Dick and Harry has one. And in terms of comfort – the oyster flex wins hands down. It is the most comfortable watch I have ever tried on. I also prefer the sporty look of the Rolex oyster flex Daytona.
The Daytona oyster flex is a perfect summer watch – nothing more and nothing less. With casual wear – the watch looks fantastic – perhaps even better than the Rolex steel ceramic Daytona. See picture below.
Collectability of the white gold Daytona
While it is very hard to predict what will become collectible with new watches – here is my observation so far: The white gold Daytona is the least seen of all the ceramic Daytona so far. Right from the very beginning there was a wait- list for the white gold daytona. After speaking to some officials in Rolex – it seems that the production they planned for the oyster flex in general was too conservative.
Rolex underestimated the demand for the oyster flex models. This could lead to the white-gold becoming collectable especially if Rolex decides to update the Daytona oyster flex in the near future.
For collectability to work you have to have a simple economics equation: Demand must be far greater than supply (and supply cannot be too plentiful either). In that sense the white gold Daytona is off to a very good start in becoming a future classic.
At least in terms of design and dial layout – I think it is the clear winner of all the ceramic Daytona. And the long wait list for white gold Daytona – proves it is the most elegant (as elegant as an oyster flex Daytona can be) and most timeless Ceramic Daytona on the market today.
Overall verdict of the Oysterflex white gold Daytona
My verdict of the Oysterflex is very positive. I love the watch even if at the same time it has its limitations in terms of wearability with evening wear.
I don’t find it a good all round watch, but I don’t think it has to be that either.
For me it is the perfect summer watch that feels heavy but in just the right place. I think with the oyster flex strap it is the most sporty Daytona on the market today – and that is why I love it! I think it is an extremely attractive watch that is also different looking. I just wish it would suit the average to small wrist better and maybe Rolex has to redesign the case and bracelet better for the next version. On the plus side it is the most attractive bracelet I have ever tried on in terms of comfort and lightness.
I think the biggest strength of the oyster flex white gold is two-fold: First it is the most attractive Daytona with Ceramic bezel on the market today in terms of dial layout and color. It is the most timeless by far and I think this also explains the long waiting list for this model particular white gold model. That combined with the oyster flex bracelet makes it sporty and rugged too. It really is a superb combination that is hard to beat. Second, the watch is certainly not for everybody. Not in terms of looks and design (with an oyster flex) and also not in terms of price. And that is exactly what appealed to me about this watch from the very beginning.
Will I keep this watch for the rest of my life? I am quite sure I will despite its short comings and being only a ‘summer watch’ in my personal opinion. It is distinctive. It is a handsome watch and best of all – not everyone is running around with one.
For Part II on how this watch performs at the beach under extreme heat – see post here.
(Credit: HQ Milton).
