In the Rolex world – when I hear of ‘double Swiss’ I immediately think of the 1960s Rolex Daytona ‘double Swiss’ Ref 6239.
However back in 2015 I pointed out that a ‘double Swiss’ also exists in the GMT world. There is also a double Swiss in the submariner world, a very rare 1963 Rolex submariner ref 5513 (it is owned by a friend of mine, a very astute collector with a fabulous eye for detail). Now it seems there is a fourth ‘double Swiss’ in the sports models of Rolex watches that was unknown to me until a few months ago.
It is in the Explorer line of Rolex watches, the Rolex 5500 Explorer.
A few months ago this year, Phillips watches auctioned off a very rare watch, a Rolex 5500 Explorer from 1962. Now I generally prefer early explorers from the 1950s due to the more intense golden gilt nature of the dial, like the 6350 honeycomb Explorer for example. But the watch that Phillips auctioned off was interesting for two reasons:
First, it has a rare retailer signature on the dial from Joyeria Riviera- which was the prestigious Havanna based retailer created back in the 1940s. But the second reason is more interesting. It has the most unusual dial layout, what is a ‘double Swiss’ in disguise.
(Picture credit: Phillips watches).
If we look at the model in more detail, we realise that in 1962, when the watch was made, Rolex was indeed in a transition period.
One year later the 1675 GMT would go from Swiss only dial to double Swiss dials, which would also include a ‘Swiss t > 25’ print together with a ‘Swiss’ only on the dial, like in this picture here. Also in that year of 1963 the Daytona 6239 was launched and early versions had the ‘double Swiss’ on the dial. The double Swiss 1675 GMT were often found in the 850 xxx or above serial numbers and the double Swiss Daytona in the 920 xxx or above.
This 5500 Explorer that we are looking at is serial Nr 845 xxx.
Let us look at the dial more closely.
Looking at the 5500 Explorer dial we see two writings of print (see picture below).
The first and top layer is the ‘Swiss Made’ writing and the second layer is the ‘Swiss’ only sign on the bottom of the dial at six o’clock. The one above is matching the retailer name in silver and the one below is in gilt writing as the dial is also a gilt based dial (although not anymore so golden in color as the earlier explorers).
This watch also has an exclamation point at six o’clock which is signaling a transition from radium to tritium and fits in the period of other Rolex sports models that had this exclamation point, like the 5512 submariner seen here. It it thought that the exclamation mark stands for lower amounts of radium as Rolex become aware of the health hazards of using this material by 1962.
(Picture credit: Phillips watches).
The fact that this watch had not only the retailer signature but also the double swiss explains the strong result it fetched: It achieved almost 3x the high estimate of CHF 12’000 or nearly 5x the low estimate, ultimately selling for CHF 32’500.
So we now have 4x double swiss versions: one in the Daytona world (6239 model), one in the Explorer world (5500 model. this model), one in the GMT Master world (1675 model) and one in the Submariner world 5513 – see picture below for all 4double Swiss Rolex sports watch models. Technically there should be more coming up – like in day dates or date just and even in other submariner models (I am thinking 5512 for example). From 1962-63 Rolex was in transition and the dial variations that are attributed to that period are complex and offer extreme variation.
It is only a matter of time before another ‘double swiss’ crops up in the Rolex world.
Stay tuned.
Here are all four ‘double Swiss‘ Rolex sports watch models from left to right clock wise: Explorer 5500, Submariner 5513, 1675 GMT Master and 6239 Daytona. (Picture credit from left to right: First two pictures Phillips, third one is rare and fine and fourth one is Koller Auktionen).
